Wilson Combat grip screws

[45Badger]

I've had several sets, never a problem.

To remove hopelessly stuck or broken grip screws- use a SMALL diameter bit and drill them out. Go slow, works like a charm. The stuck part will spin right out.

 

[hifi]

Because tight enough is tight enough. Why overtighten fasteners?

Well, now I think both you guys missed my point. What I was saying was that I like to be able to work on my guns in the field. If a grip screw loosens or I need to remove the grips. I know you'll think it's silly and say that I'd never need to do that, but I have before. And that's just how I am. Boyscout all the way..

 

[Skyviking]

Although my CQB has a set of the Wilson s/s torx-head screws on it, they were there when I got the gun (used, but LNIP). I prefer the standard slotted screws and I've been procrastinating buying a set. I can't decide whether to get the green or black A/T'd screws since it has a set of the WC ebony grips on it. (The gun's black over green A-T.)

I like the slotted screws, since JMB designed the 1911 to be completely disassembled (detail-stripped) with only the hands, the firing pin, and a .45 ball cartridge (case). The rim of the .45acp can be used to turn out/tighten the grip screws, while the firing pin can be used to push out any of the other pins in the pistol. Oh, and you can use the bottom of the slide or other hard object (covered with a piece of cloth to preclude marring the part/finish) to pound out any stubborn pins.

 

[TaxPhd]

Hey Skyviking,

I am a little "Bourbonized" this evening, so forgive me if if this is a stupid question.

How do you remove the firing pin using hands and case only??




Scott

 

[taliv]

Nobody buy girpscrews from wilson combat, they will break on you!

What do you guys think?

i think it's poor form to badmouth a company before you give them a chance to make it right.

i also think you'd be much better off using the phone than email.

and i think complaining about slow response when you emailed a specific person (who may be out sick or on vaca or picking up her kids from school in the afternoon) instead of a common address, which a company can use to make sure somebody is always checking, is unfair.

 

[mattw]

Tman, I have not been able to get the screw shaft out yet, its stuck in there flush with the screw bushing.. i'd have to use a chisle or a dremel tool to cut a slot in the top and the remove it with a standard screwdriver..

To remove hopelessly stuck or broken grip screws- use a SMALL diameter bit and drill them out. Go slow, works like a charm. The stuck part will spin right out.

I might try this, thanks for the suggestion.

i think it's poor form to badmouth a company before you give them a chance to make it right.

Maybe that is true, but for a $14 set of screws i expect them to be quality and not break so easily. And there are 3 or 4 other replys about Wilson screws breaking, I think it is fair to tell people my opinion of these screws and warn them against purchasing.

instead of a common address, which a company can use to make sure somebody is always checking, is unfair.

you're right about that, i admit my mistake.

 

[IZinterrogator]

for a $14 set of screws i expect them to be quality and not break so easily.

When it comes to hex head screws, the problem is that most people don't understand the torque they generate when using the long end of an Allen wrench to screw it in. Grip screws and other small hex screws should only be tightened using the small end to turn it. Otherwise, you generate too much torque on the screw and end up with a broken screw like you did. The fact that it broke flush with the bushing indicates you over-torqued it. Slotted screws rarely have this problem because screwdrivers are not made in a way that it is possible to over-torque the screws by any other means than brute strength.

 

[mattw]

Aparently so.. maybe Wilson should include an idiot warning in the little plastic bag that the screws came in. I really don't think it would've broken without that hollow portion in the top of the shaft, though.

 

[IZinterrogator]

My M5 RAS for my AR had the idiot warning. I took it to heart and used that method for gun screws ever since. Big old Allen bolts, on the other hand...

 

[1911Tuner]

Grip Screws

Before anybody gets the idea that Wilson, or any other gun manufacturer or builder is supplying sub-standard parts, please bear in mind that they didn't make the screws in question. Those parts were supplied by a vendor whose manufacturing process is subject to the same nuances of any other mass-produced part. Some lots turn out fine...Others don't. The next batch of screws may well be stronger than Superman's cape...and the one after that as brittle as glass, followed by another that's as soft as butter. Since wilson Combat, or any other maker/builder can't afford to take the time to test each part that they have in their inventory...sometimes a bad part gets passed along. Luck of the draw.

No current manufacturer that I'm aware of makes their own grip screws or sears or disconnects or springs or pins or....Well, you see my point. Those parts are supplied by the lowest bidder, with all that is implied. Welcome to the 21st century.

If you can get a small drill bit to bite into the screw shaft without buggering up the bushing, it'll probably spin it out, since it doesn't thread into a blind hole and bottom out, it's probably not very tight. You may be able to turn it through and out with an ice pick. Might take some time...Put on a pot of coffee and enjoy fixin' it yourself.

Disclaimer:

I have no interest...financial or otherwise... with Wilson Combat. Nor do I have any sort of personal relationship with Bill Wilson.

 

[moredes]

MattW,

Don't feel bad; it's okay to feel like an idiot, but this is gonna be a real cheap fix. Don't ask me how I know...

Instead of messing with drilling out the screw shaft, remove the grips and grab the screw bushing (the threaded tube that the hex screw screwed into) with a set of good, squared, vise-grips, and unscrew the entire bushing/shaft assembly from the frame. And from now on, remember, the short lever is for your hand. (Anything can be broken if you put enough torque to it.)

Then go to http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...tle=1911+AUTO+HEX+HEAD+GRIP+SCREWS+&+BUSHINGS

and spend ~$20 including shipping for a set of bushings and screws. The bushings are only $5--don't waste your time trying to save it. Hell, you'll be REAL po'd if you slip and walk your drill across the frame.

Hey it coulda been worse...you coulda broke two .... THAT'S idiocy.

 

[pauli]

another thing that may work is to put a dull dremel bit of some sort against the screw from the other side, and shake it out that way.

Before anybody gets the idea that Wilson, or any other gun manufacturer or builder is supplying sub-standard parts, please bear in mind that they didn't make the screws in question.

if they put their name on them (or the package), they're still directly answerable for the quality of their product.

 

[1911Tuner]

Responsibility

Pauli said:

If they put their name on them (or the package), they're still directly answerable for the quality of their product.
*************************

No argument there, Pauli. They should, and no doubt would...but saying that nobody should buy a Wilson pistol because of one broken screw is...a little over the top. That's like sayin' that we shouldn't buy a Ford truck because a new one blew a tire.

Also have to advise against ripping out the screw bushing. It's staked in, and removing it without restaking it will result in the screw and bushing coming out together the next time the grip is removed. Not a major issue, but avoidable with a little patience.

 

[ruger357]

Same thing happened to my stainless Wilson screw. Ended up replacing the bushing. Used lock tight on the new bushing. Called Wilson and they sent me another set of screws.

 

[1911Tuner]

Loc-tite Bushing

JB Weld lasts longer and holds better than loc-tite.

Tip:

Whenever the screws are out, before reinstalling them, put a tiny drop of oil on the end and let it trickle down onto the threads...About enough to cover the first three should do. Run the screws down 'til they stop and snug lightly...Maybe 1/16th of a turn. No need to torque'em down like a main bearing cap.

 

[ruger357]

Nice tip, thanks Tuner.

 

[Skyviking]

After field-stripping the pistol, use the slide stop pin to depress the firing pin and slide out the firing pin stop, keeping the (spring-loaded) firing pin under control w/your thumb. You can use the firing pin tip to punch put the mainspring housing retaining pin...

 

[mattw]

saying that nobody should buy a Wilson pistol because of one broken screw is...a little over the top.

I never said that.

After field-stripping the pistol, use the slide stop pin to depress the firing pin and slide out the firing pin stop, keeping the (spring-loaded) firing pin under control w/your thumb. You can use the firing pin tip to punch put the mainspring housing retaining pin...

I love THR!

 

[Skyviking]

Matt, I would strongly encourage you to take your pistol down to a good gunsmith and have him tap the screw and spin it out of the bushing. Well-staked grip screw bushings are a good thing to have, and it is easy to strip the bushing's threads in the frame, which complicates things.

 

[mattw]

good advice, i need to talk to him about frontstrap checkering anyway

 

[1911Tuner]

Whoops

Matt...Lookin'back, I see that you didn't say that. My bad. These meds I'm tryin' (steroids) have got me to the point that sometimes I can't remember what day it is...much less exactly what I've read. Hope to be off of'em soon.

Even so...Wilson will warranty it, even though they didn't make it.

 

[mattw]

Tuner, be careful not to go into a roid-rage and bash in your monitor or something (i'm sure they aren't those kinds of steriods... or are they... ). Hope whatever problem you need them for clears up soon..

As said before, I think that since Wilson puts his name on it he should be held accountable for quality and it is expected that he/they give it a warrantey. (I hope that statment isn't too "John Wayne." People still do care about their word and their name, right?)

 

[JoeHatley]

I've replaced several sets of grip screws with Wilson hex head.



Never had a problem. But then I always remenber the screws only need to be tight enough not to unscrew under recoil .

Joe

 

[1911Tuner]

No Tool Detail Strip

Skyviking, et al...Here's the procedure.

Thumb safety pushes out mainspring housing. (That's why the old ones had the flat area...so you could use the front end of the slide to tap straight down on it) It'll remove the hammer pin too. So will the mainspring housing pin.

Hammer strut removes the firing pin and sear pin. Sear spring turns the mag catch lock. Use the front lip of the mag base to remove the grip screws. (But the slots have to be to original spec. Most these days aren't.)
A cartridge rim can also be used, but may not offer enough leverage on some screws

Going back together...Either the firing pin or the right ear of the barrel bushing can be used to depress the plunger assembly to replace the thumb safety. Don't push the firing pin straight into it from the rear. That's the hard way. Instead, use the side of the pin, approach from the top. Fiddle with the bushing a little...it'll come to ya.

Here endeth the lesson.

 

[taliv]

that's almost cool enough to make me want to trade in my +pimp wilson compact for one of those classics