Winchester 94 hammer spring adjustment

[CZguy]

I bought a Winchester model 94 that was made in 1970. It is in really good shape but has been stored for a long time and had a great deal of dried oil in the action. I disassembled and cleaned the rifle but made a mistake and removed the hammer spring adjustment screw during disassembly, and now the hammer is hard to cock. It appearers to me that turning the screw in puts more tension on the hammer spring, and turning it out relieves it. I have tried turning the adjustment screw all of the way in, and then turning it out one quarter turn at a time and testing it. But even with all of the tension removed the acting seems to be too stiff. By that I mean, working the action to cock the hammer it meats with resistance when the bolt comes in contact with the hammer.

I welcome any suggestions.

 

[Chawbaccer]

Does the hammer move freely with out the spring? Did you try putting grease on bottom of hammer where spring meets?

 

[rcmodel]

Whatever it is, it's not the mainspring doing it I betcha.

The screw in question is the mainspring Strain Screw.
It must be loosened before removing the mainspring screw, or trying to put it back in.
Otherwise, your chances of cross-threading or stripping the mainspring screw is high.

It should be adjusted only after the mainspring screw / mainspring is fully tightened.
Then it should be screwed in so the head is flush with the lower tang.

Now, did you remove the left & right cartridge guides from inside the receiver walls?

It is pretty easy to put one back in whopper jawed or not fully seated enough to drag on the bolt or carrier when the action is operated.

rc

 

[CZguy]

During disassembly I didn't remove the cartridge guides.

I removed and reinstalled the hammer spring and adjusted the strain screw as rcmodel suggested.

I greased the bottom od the hammer as Chawbaccer suggested.

I've never owned a Winchester before, I've always had Marlins. So I'm wondering just how easy should the lever feel? When the hammer is back the action works smoothly.

The hammer is easy to cock manually.

 

[rcmodel]

I'd venture a guess that a flat spring 94 is at least 50% harder to lever cock then a coil spring Marlin.

It should be 100% easier to open with the hammer already cocked.

I think you might just be O.K. if everything else works normally.

rc

 

[CZguy]

rcmodel, I think that's whats going on in this case. I'll be able to shoot it in a couple of days to be sure.

Thanks to both rcmodel and Chawbaccer for the help.

 

[Red Cent]

The m94 shares a mainspring with the 1873 and I am familiar with the 1873.

RC is correct. You can get the screw caddy wampus . When I install the spring, I back out the strain screw, hook the stirrup, compress the spring as far down as you can. Then I take a tiny C clamp (padded) and put the tail of the spring parallel with the frame.
Once the mainspring screw is snugged, then adjust the strain screw.

The hammer is the main problem to getting a light and smooth action in any lever gun.

You can "play" with this adjustment endlessly. I reload and use Federal primers that are easy to set off. My mainspring screw holds the mainspring just off the frame and the strain screw is adjusted til I can consistently fire the rounds. I believe if you snug the spring to the frame you actually reinforce the spring. 'Least, it works for me. You would think my lever is disconnected to anything inside.

 

[CZguy]

Interesting idea Red Cent. I'll give that a try.

 

[rcmodel]

While agree it can be used to "tune" the hammer power for CASS and other games.
Probably not a real good idea if you plan to hunt with it.

You want 120% reliable ignition with any ammo for that.
And setting the screw flush with the tang as designed is the way to get it that way.

rc