Actually Jim read your remarks just fine......
USAF_Vet
I wonder if the chamber could be sleeved to accept a .380 ACP, or cut down and rechambered.
USAF_Vet
Ammo===http://www.buffaloarms.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=158011&CAT=4445
http://shop.reedsammo.com/35-WSL_c225.htm
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=444954950
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/62...ng-brass-35-winchester-self-loading-box-of-50
http://www.custombrassandbullets.com/35wiselo.html
Here is a good little article about making brass for the WSL line of cartridges.
http://www.realguns.com/archives/160.htm
WINCHESTER 1905 SERIAL NUMBERS
This rifle was numbered sequentially, making it possible to determine the date of manufacture. The serial number will be found in two places on the left side, on the lower frame and upper receiver, just above the trigger.
At the end of the calendar year, the last serial number reached was:
1905 --- 1 through 7224
1906 --- 7225
1907 --- 18307
1908 --- 22214
1909 --- 23406
1910 --- 24302
1911 --- 25446
1912 --- 26527
1913 --- 27627
1914 --- 28585
1915 --- 29137
1916 --- 29589
1917 --- 29938
1918 --- 30326
1919 --- 30615
1920 --- 31318
1921 --- 31391
1922 --- 31447
1923 --- 31457
The highest serial number known is 31467. Though the 1905 was discontinued in 1920, complete rifles continued to be assembled from parts into the early 1920s.
BASIC DISASSEMBLY OF THE MODEL 1905
All Winchester Model 1905s are breakdown models, meaning that the rifle can be taken down into two major components for easy transport, cleaning and storage. HereÂ’s how to do it. Warning! If a part is stiff, do NOT use bare pliers to turn it or youÂ’ll mar the metal. Instead, lightly glue a couple of pieces of hard plastic or even wood to the plier jaws. A rag around the part is insufficient and will still allow the pliers to damage the steel.
A. Remove the magazine by pressing the magazine catch inward (right side, ahead of trigger).
B. Put the rifle on SAFE, by pushing the round button ahead of the trigger from left to right. It should project from the right side of the trigger guard.
C. Push back the operating sleeve, under the barrel, to move the bolt back.
D. With the operating sleeve fully back, turn it right or left to lock the bolt back.
E. With a strong light, check the chamber to ensure there is no cartridge in it. CAUTION: Keep your fingers out of the ejection port of the receiver. The bolt is under heavy spring tension; if it slips forward it will crush your fingers!
F. With the chamber clear, turn the operating sleeve back to where it was and the bolt will slam forward. Again, watch those fingers!
G. At the top, behind the receiver, is a large, knurled knob (takedown screw). Behind the takedown screw is a small projection (takedown screw lock). Press down the takedown screw lock and turn the takedown screw counter-clockwise.
H. When the takedown screw is free of the threads, pull the wooden handguard and barrel assembly forward. At the same time, pull the rear, wooden stock backwards.
I. The rifle should come apart as two sections, exposing the trigger assembly.
J. Do NOT pull the trigger and trip the hammer! You should not be able to do so, because of a disconnector that prevents this. If your rifle fires while disassembled, it is defective and you should seek a knowledgeable gunsmith.
K. No further disassembly is required for regular cleaning.
Ensure that the hammer is cocked (down) before reassembling the rifle.
A good exploded view of the Model 1905 Winchester, and directions for disassembly, are found in the American Rifleman, Nov. 1967, p. 58.
REMOVING THE WOOD
The Model 1905 Winchester has a rather thin wooden forearm, since it is hollow and houses the counterweight, recoil spring and other parts. These rifles are often encountered with a split or broken forearm.
Use a screwdriver that fits perfectly in the screw head. Often, screw heads are filled with dirt and grime. An old toothbrush and a bit of gun solvent will scrub out any grime, allowing the screwdriver bit to reach fully into the screw slot.
To avoid losing any parts, place them in plastic bags or sealed containers according to the area from which they were removed. This will save you a lot of grief and mystery when reassembling.
Removing the forearm is not difficult but does require attention to detail.
1. Turn out the forearm screw, on the right side, that goes through the metal forearm tip. The screw turns counterclockwise for out. On my particular rifle, the screw came out about 1/8 of an inch, continued to turn, but wouldÂ’t come out. I simply used a small punch to push against the bottom of the screw, on the other side of the forearm tip, and the screw backed out fine.
2. Push the metal forearm tip forward. CAREFUL! The operating sleeve and its spring will pop forward too! This spring is not real strong but you should watch for it. Slide the operating sleeve and the metal forearm tip forward and off the barrel.
3. The wooden forearm is now loose. Slide it forward off the barrel.
Removing the wooden butt stock is not difficult.
1. Remove the two screws holding the rubber buttplate to the stock.
2. Remove the rubber buttplate.
3. With a strong light, examine the hole at the back of the stock. You will see a large slotted screw down at the bottom, which attaches the receiver to the wooden stock. You will need a regular screw driver with a shaft at least 8” long to turn that screw. If you can, use a 9 or 10” shaft screwdriver to avoid knocking the screwdriver handle against the wooden stock.
4. The screw turns out counter-clockwise.
5. Later models of the Winchester 1905 also have a grip cap on the wooden stock. This is easily removed with a proper-fitting screwdriver.
6. This completes removing the wood from the metal.
Do NOT strip the rifle any further. This rifle has a lot of springs, pins and small parts that are easily lost and difficult to get back in place.
If your rifle is badly fouled, blast the gunk out with an aerosol can of gun scrubber or brake cleaner. A brass brush will help remove the most stubborn crud but donÂ’t scrub too hard on visible areas or you may leave a brass tinge to the blue metal. A stiff, natural bristle brush may also be used.
Keep the solvent well away from the wooden stock, as it will damage the wood finish. NEVER use these strong solvents with the wood attached.
Do this outdoors in a well-ventilated area. The solvent that runs out will kill plants and poison soil, so do this over a concrete driveway or sidewalk, away from vehicles, pets and children. Wear eye protection. Do not smoke or use near flame.
