fireflyfather
Member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2006
- Messages
- 807
Run some rebar between the studs...run some under the floorboards, and above the ceiling. Weld the ends together. Problem solved...
Working on my hiding space
- Thread starter Ironhorse522
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Ironhorse522
Member
Well I wasn't planning on ripping up the Sheetrock and stuff. That's a little much
dprice3844444
member
quit being so cheap,buy a huge safe and get it over with.when you fill out the safe paperwork,have them write on there instead of gun safe,write fireproof safe for storage of income tax records,then it becomes a deduction.after you throw out your old income tax filings,keep the old 10-40 forms in there.or digitize discs and store in there.you guys keep forgetting the other major reason for safes besides theft protection,fire/tornado protection
Ironhorse522
Member
Do they make a 74 gun gunsafe?
CmdrSlander
Member
Hide them in the walls. Seriously, pick a room and cut into the walls, puts shelving in the space between the inner and outer wall, put the guns on the shelves, then hide the holes with paintings or something. Its not fire safe but no burglar or house guest would ever suspect that as your hiding place. You may have problems with varying temperatures and humidity levels so I would only use them when guests were over and store the guns in a more open, more hospitable environment.
Ironhorse522
Member
I'm sticking with my original idea if I start cutting into the walls of my grandmothers old house, she'd come back to beat me black and blue with a switch
stargeezer
Member
line the inside with 3/4" OSB. It is pretty much hammer proof and being decking (flooring) grade, it will slow down a sawsall. Then you can screw right to the wall anywhere. If I was real seriously concerned about it, I'd use a hollow core steel skin door, remove the upper wood inner frame and insert a couple more wood braces inside the door and screw them in place really, really good. Then stand the door up, hang in on the hinges, mix up readymix concrete and poor the stuff into the center voids of the door.
You might put the top brace back in and drill a couple holes to feed the concrete in through. It is likly that it will leak some water in every joint, but in the end, you will end up with a strong heavy door.
I'd hope you will see the need for some serious hinges if you decide to try this.
MY approach would be to start by welding a doorsized plate of 11 gage steel to some 1 1/2" angle and have a strong door, but that takes special tools and skills.
You might put the top brace back in and drill a couple holes to feed the concrete in through. It is likly that it will leak some water in every joint, but in the end, you will end up with a strong heavy door.
I'd hope you will see the need for some serious hinges if you decide to try this.
MY approach would be to start by welding a doorsized plate of 11 gage steel to some 1 1/2" angle and have a strong door, but that takes special tools and skills.
Shadow 7D
Member
Actually, NOT OSB,fiber reinforced masonry board, the one you need a special blade to cut, use that with good quality concrete grid reinforcement/welded wire.
Put it 360 and you have about the same level of fire protection as a RSC too.
Put it 360 and you have about the same level of fire protection as a RSC too.
Ironhorse522
Member
What does rsc mean??
wrc
Member
"RSC" is a Residential Security Container, as defined in Underwriter's Laboratory standard 1037
Most gun "safes" are made to meet this standard. The relevant test for forced entry is that it has to resist an attack with specific (unpowered) hand tools for five minutes on all sides.
Basically, the weakest side has to resist a hammer and screwdriver for five minutes.
I do not have the $716 standard in front of me, so I don't know what tests they specify for surreptitious and covert entry.
Most gun "safes" are made to meet this standard. The relevant test for forced entry is that it has to resist an attack with specific (unpowered) hand tools for five minutes on all sides.
Basically, the weakest side has to resist a hammer and screwdriver for five minutes.
I do not have the $716 standard in front of me, so I don't know what tests they specify for surreptitious and covert entry.
Ironhorse522
Member
303 Tom do you have any more describtions?
X-Rap
Member
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2006
- Messages
- 6,657
These are not cheap but there are some knock offs that are less expensive. They are probably at least as secure as some RSC's but lack any fire protection.
http://www.toolup.com/knaack_2060_23-x-24-x-60-classic-storage-chest.aspx?skinid=5
You can build your own racks and store the guns horizontal. Add a couple layers of 5/8 drywall and a fire rated door and to your closet and your set depending on its location in your house.
You really are setting the bar quite high by wanting secrecy, security, and fire resistance for very little. You are probably going to have little of the three for the costs being discussed.
http://www.toolup.com/knaack_2060_23-x-24-x-60-classic-storage-chest.aspx?skinid=5
You can build your own racks and store the guns horizontal. Add a couple layers of 5/8 drywall and a fire rated door and to your closet and your set depending on its location in your house.
You really are setting the bar quite high by wanting secrecy, security, and fire resistance for very little. You are probably going to have little of the three for the costs being discussed.
leadcounsel
member
Securing 10s of thousands of dollars worth of guns and presumably ammo behind a $100 door isn't that good of an idea...
Sell a few guns, and get a good gun safe.
Ding ding ding ding...
Fire safe and also, get insurance. A fire or theft would be devestating loss of $30,000 in guns...
Sell a few guns, and get a good gun safe.
Ding ding ding ding...
Fire safe and also, get insurance. A fire or theft would be devestating loss of $30,000 in guns...
Cesiumsponge
Member
If a thief has the intelligence to attack plywood reinforced walls with a sawzall, these same thieves are going to attack your RSC with a sawzall, and most gun safes are made out of SHEET METAL so these RSCs or plywood walls prevent a very pathetic barrier to a sawzall. Arguing that reinforced rooms "are a bad idea" because someone might take a saw to them is not a legitimate argument for an RSC. Almost all RSCs are equally susceptible to the same tools...and you don't need to cut a hole big enough to walk through on an RSC.
12131
Member
I agree.
You have so many guns that you ran out of closets, but can't afford to buy a good safe or two. What? It only takes one break-in, or one big fire, then it will be too late to decide to buy the safe. "Well, I shoulda, coulda, woulda".
Nanook
Member
Or better yet, figure out how to make the "doorknob" something no thief would bother with.
I've sent the OP some pics of my setup. It's the first time I've shared the design outside of close friends. I am quite interested in his thoughts.
Hang a job application from it.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
One day my wife and I took a long hard look at not just my guns but her jewelery collection and tried to put a price on it. My AR10 match rifle alone is a $3,000 rifle.
I invested about $3,000 in a good gun safe which is now home to my high end guns as well as her jewelery. Additionally all of our important documents like passports, property deeds, and everything else difficult to replace. This house burns down and our stuff will be just fine. So yeah, while $3,000 was not quite inexpensive it brought tremendous peace of mind, not just against theft but fire and natural disasters as well.
The low end guns can be placed in a few hundred dollar El' Cheapo safe from Gander Mountain (or similar) but the high end stuff is safe and secure. So while you oppose a safe based on cost, you may want to think about the value of a family gun collection. Especially those irreplaceable guns. Think about it.
Just My Take
Ron
oldbear
Member
Ironhorse522, given what you have to work with, I think you've come up with the best answer. My only suggestion is to use a solid core wooden door with a good dead bolt locking system. Then reinforce the jams around the lock.
Best of luck with what ever you do.
Best of luck with what ever you do.
doc540
Member
Did you steal that from me?
I've suggested for years that a handgun can be secured in a car by keeping it inside a file folder marked "Job Applications".
Sorry I did`nt get back sooner, my arms room walls, ceiling, & floor are solid wood 2x6, covered with concrete board & lined with sheet metal, 2 outer windows bared, entry door sheet metal lined 4in. solid wood set in 4x4 jam on 4 hinges with 2 deadbolts & 1 entry................O & 1 Pittbull.........
Nanook
Member
Did you steal that from me?
I've suggested for years that a handgun can be secured in a car by keeping it inside a file folder marked "Job Applications".
Ha, great minds think alike I guess. It's a pretty common joke around Chicago, at least outside the city it is.
Ironhorse522
Member
Still buying little things before construction begins this weekend
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