Come on in, the water's fine! Actually, I could easily set myself up within the budge restraint you mention. But, I wouldn't get anyone's kit, they are ok but choosing individual tools for their design and function is, IMHO, a better way to go. Let me suggest a complete list of the things you will need.
Get the Lee "Classic Cast" (steel) press and Lee's rifle dies (Lee dies includes the shell holders, except for the RGB sets), they are as good as, if not better than, their competitors and cost much less. The Lee neck sizers (collet type) and Factory Crimp Dies are perhaps the very best designs of their type. Get a Lee Auto-Prime tool and the full set of shell holders. The Lyman "Universal" lathe type case trimmer is nice to use but Lee's small trimmers work well and at a much lower price. Lee's smallish case deburring tool works but it's a pain to work with, one of the larger tools sold by Lyman, Hornady or RCBS are worth the extra cost. Hornady and Redding's powder measures and stands are good deals at a mid-price, Lee's little "Perfect" powder measure works fine for tubular powders but not for sphericals (it leaks those super-fine powders). For all pistol/straight walled cases use carbide dies, suggest either Lyman or Redding straight wall dies because of their great expander design. Get an RCBS (Ohaus made) 505 powder scale and a Redding powder trickler. You will need a couple of loading blocks but any brand will do fine.
You also need something to make precise measurements with. A 6" dial caliper reading to .001" works well. Those sold by Harbor Freight appear to be made in the same Chinese plant as those sold by Midway, Lyman, RCBS, etc. but HF has them on sale a couple of times a year for as little as $13; why pay more?
The ABCs of Reloading is a good book. Lyman's and Lee's manuals give the most info for the buck. And sometimes Lee offers a "free" little C press with the purchase of their manual, it's a great tool for infrequent tasks such as decapping, etc. but I've used mine to load up to 30-06 and it did fine.
Imperial Die Wax is perhaps the best commericial case lube and it's best applied with the finger tips. A less expensive but every bit as good lube substitute is Kiwi "Mink Oil", it's a moderately soft boot wax from the shoe department of Walmart for cheap.
An RCBS stuck case remover is insurance for when, not if, you stick a case.
Get all this and ignore the kits, you will be ahead of the game. And I recommend all this as a loader since '65 who has used and own tools from almost every maker available, including many who have long passed from the scene.
If/when you want a chronograph, the Chrony "Beta Master" seems the best value but I prefer the PACT "Pro".
