Would you shoot rounds not resized?

[whughett]

Just to answer your posted question. If they chamber and go to battery. Shoot them, more fun than trying to pull the bullets and one would have a ready excuse for the flyers.

 

[doubleh]

No.

 

[Blue68f100]

You could always buy a Body die and resize without breaking the bullets down.

Are these actually 300BO brass or converted brass? Some brands require neck turning.

 

[fguffey]

Bill, I never said I did not have Lee factory crimp dies. I want all the bullet hold I can get; if I use a LFCD and the neck of the case fits the bullet like a hand me down shirt after crimping with the Lee die the neck of the case and bullet is still loose.

F. Guffey

 

[Bill460]

Bill, I never said I did not have Lee factory crimp dies. I want all the bullet hold I can get; if I use a LFCD and the neck of the case fits the bullet like a hand me down shirt after crimping with the Lee die the neck of the case and bullet is still loose. F. Guffey

Then something isn't right. I use the Lee Factory Crimp Die on all of my handloads. Except for auto pistol rounds that headspace on the mouth of the case. And ALL of them have tight bullet fits..... Just like the factory. Hence the name, "Factory Crimp Die". You are either expanding, and / or flaring the case too much, or else not adjusting the Factory Crimp Die in far enough. I always use a piece of .001 feeler gauge with the press at the top of it's stroke, while there is a cartridge seated in the shell holder. The .001 feeler should have a slight drag when the petals close.

 

[fguffey]

Then something isn't right.

The OP started by saying some of his cases had loose neck, he also said he had cases with tight necks. He provided us with additional information; he claimed they were sold to him with the understanding the cases had ben sized and were ready to load. Back to the part where he said some of the necks were tight and some were loose; I use bullet hold, I want all the bullet hold I can get, I can not get good bullet hold with cases that have loose necks. I do not need the LFCD die with cases that have tight necks.

you are either expanding, and / or flaring the case too much,

I am not expanding and or flaring, again, Lyman and Dillon said crimping could be a bad habit.

F. Guffey

 

[Bill460]

The OP started by saying some of his cases had loose neck, he also said he had cases with tight necks. He provided us with additional information; he claimed they were sold to him with the understanding the cases had ben sized and were ready to load. Back to the part where he said some of the necks were tight and some were loose; I use bullet hold, I want all the bullet hold I can get, I can not get good bullet hold with cases that have loose necks. I do not need the LFCD die with cases that have tight necks. I am not expanding and or flaring, again, Lyman and Dillon said crimping could be a bad habit.

That is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard. And I highly doubt either Dillon or Lyman ever said that in the context you presented it. Both companies manufacture and sell many different crimping dies. Crimping is a very necessary step in the handloading process. That keeps bullets from setting back due to recoil, in both auto pistol and rifle magazines. It also prevents bullets from pulling out from recoil in Magnum revolver cartridges. Thereby tying up the weapon.

It would be all but impossible to load cartridges like the .357, .44, .454, and .500 Magnum cartridges without a good, tight, properly applied crimp. Many Magnum revolver powders like 2400 and H-110 will not produce proper ignition, without a heavy crimp being applied. And bullet setback can be dangerous with maximum loads in many auto pistol rounds. To say, "crimping is a bad habit", is in itself preposterous.

And as far as having brass that has both loose, and tight case necks, that reeks of inconsistency. If I had a batch of brass that was that bad, I would simply cut my losses and toss it. Or else if it was purchased, send it back and try to rectify the situation by exchanging it for new or different product.

Either way it is futile to try to continue with attempting to reload that inconsistent mess. For one, it could be walked right into a dangerous situation. And that is worth no amount of "savings", period.

 

[SlowFuse]

I am not expanding and or flaring, again, Lyman and Dillon said crimping could be a bad habit.

Possible that the context is off, but i've understood this logic with rifle rounds as correct. If you're sizing your brass correctly you dont need to rely on a crimp die to increase neck tension. Thats with rifle rounds only and generally ones that would be used in a bolt action.

Your point on crimping pistols is a very valid point, they're different.

 

[Blue68f100]

You don't roll crimp simi-auto handgun ammo that head spaces off of the mouth. Taper crimp only, to remove any excess flaring needed to start the bullet. Neck tension holds the bullet in place on these. Magnum revolver yes, the crimp plays a important part to the magnum load. But if your loading powder puffs you don't need any crimp in most cases. As far as rifle loads only the tubular magazine fed ammo requires a crimp. I don't crimp any of my rifle load. I rely on neck tension to hold the bullet in place. Never been a problem in over 4 decades.

 

[motoelf]

Ok, thanks for all the replies. I went today on my way to a boat show and got the Lyman ammo checker. I had 6-8 that wouldn't load in well. I set them aside. I had another 10 that didn't go all the way in my 1/8" so I pushed them in and reloaded until they slid right in and fell out when turned over. I pulled the bullets out and dumped powder. I am now lubing, resizing and then running them thru the tumbler. So I will never take the brass as load-able as stated. Thanks for all the advice.

moto.

 

[Bill460]

As far as rifle loads only the tubular magazine fed ammo requires a crimp.

That simply is not true. ANY Mil-Spec 5.56 MM, (.223), or 7.62 X 51 MM, (.308), 7.62 X 39 MM factory loaded round has a crimp in order to prevent setback of the bullet in box magazines, that most all semi auto military rifles employ. (AR-15 / M-16, M1 Garand, M1-A, FAL, etc.). Could you get away without crimping? Possibly. But even if you do, what are you gaining? Why not produce the ammo properly for the weapon it is going to be used in?

Many factory loaded semi auto pistol rounds, like the .45 ACP have not only a very tight taper crimp, many have an additional cannelure that is rolled into the case, just below where the base of the bullet is seated. This is also done to prevent setback of the heavy 230 grain bullet during recoil. Ammunition manufacturers would not be taking the extra steps doing these things if it was unnecessary, or not needed.

As far as target shooting in a bolt action rifle, by single loading every round? Then no, you do not require a crimp. None of this is about, "what you can get away with". It's about proper handloading procedures. And if you are reloading ammunition for use in a semi automatic rifle or pistol, then the proper crimp should be applied, period. Arguing otherwise proves nothing, and is simply foolish.

 

[motoelf]

So I went out to shoot the loads that I don’t think were resized properly and they seem to shoot fine. Posted are pictures of the gun I was shooting in 300 blk out and the targets. The target on the right was standing shooting freehand fast. The target on the left was using a table going a little slower. Red dot at 50 yards. For now on I’m resizing my brass even if they stay it’s ready to load.

 

[Blue68f100]

That simply is not true. ANY Mil-Spec 5.56 MM, (.223), or 7.62 X 51 MM, (.308), 7.62 X 39 MM factory loaded round has a crimp in order to prevent setback of the bullet in box magazines, that most all semi auto military rifles employ. (AR-15 / M-16, M1 Garand, M1-A, FAL, etc.). Could you get away without crimping? Possibly. But even if you do, what are you gaining? Why not produce the ammo properly for the weapon it is going to be used in?

Many factory loaded semi auto pistol rounds, like the .45 ACP have not only a very tight taper crimp, many have an additional cannelure that is rolled into the case, just below where the base of the bullet is seated. This is also done to prevent setback of the heavy 230 grain bullet during recoil. Ammunition manufacturers would not be taking the extra steps doing these things if it was unnecessary, or not needed.

As far as target shooting in a bolt action rifle, by single loading every round? Then no, you do not require a crimp. None of this is about, "what you can get away with". It's about proper handloading procedures. And if you are reloading ammunition for use in a semi automatic rifle or pistol, then the proper crimp should be applied, period. Arguing otherwise proves nothing, and is simply foolish.

Crimping is going to be gun/application specific. I shoot match bullets out of my simi-autos, so I'm not going to damage the bullet crimping them. And you want find anyone doing it shooting competition either. I do use the mil primers where I can, and 0.003" neck tension to prevent bullet movement. The Military has a lot of requirements that does not apply to civilian ammo. Are you applying sealant to the bullet and primer? Not all bullets have a cannalure for crimp. So it's a judgement call if you want to crimp bullets without cannalures. Looking at specs, I have not seen any rifle round that specs a cannalure and crimp.

We are just going to have to disagree, that is what it is. I'm willing to bet if you took a poll on how may crimped their simi-auto ammo you would be on the loosing side of what is being done. 98% of the time a crimp will hurt accuracy.

 

[SlowFuse]

Looks like everything worked out @motoelf. Good to hear.