You poor poor Marlin 336a... what have they done to you?

Status
Not open for further replies.
R.W.Dale said:
That's the direction I'm leaning towards. Just hide it underneath something. Either a piece of black plastic or a strip of blued steel or possibly part of a rail depending on if it obscures the aperture sight picture

Wood is something I had not considered

The brass suggestion is a good one too. A daub of epoxy should be more than sufficient to hold something in place especially with the waffle texture
Click to expand...
I like wood and it would give it a unique look too
 
The trouble with wood would be that in order to look nice, it would have to be very thin, which would be prone to splitting and cracking. ?
 
Ugly Sauce said:
The trouble with wood would be that in order to look nice, it would have to be very thin, which would be prone to splitting and cracking. ?
Click to expand...
make like 10 of them! in different patterns and cool logos! I say Have Fun with it.

wish you can put a MLock in those holes and go to town with amazon imported rails covers.
 
chicharrones said:
That large hole is bringing out my curiosity. I wonder what fit into that cavity?
Click to expand...

Figured it out. Bubba was going to mount a Zerk (grease nipple) on it. Then discovered it blocked the sight picture. Never have to clean the bolt or action. Just give it a couple of pumps with the grease gun once in a while. The six pound, 2-20X scope came later. Or perhaps he was planning on a 90 degree zerk fitting, which would clear said scope, which was mounted on three inch tall rings.
 
In that case, a silver butt-plate and barrel band could come in handy!! Dang, I might inlay some silver dollars into the butt-stocks of my "Scout" rifles!!! I like it!
 
I'd figure out how Marlin machined that waffle pattern,practicing on scrap of course.

Interestingly,was on the verge of "micro" Tig welding this a.m. Not quite tiny but, way smaller than those holes. Not soliciting in the least... only posted cause I was doing it this morning.

Back to how I'd go about it....

Saying,even though we "could" Tig the holes up..... that doesn't solve the waffle. Which,I would NOT stop trying to replicate until it satisfied that part of the problem. Then,would not weld them up.... would reproduce the waffle on a blue'able piece of thin stock(magnetic chuck should hold it whilst waffling),and then epoxy it on. Yes epoxy,not silver solder. The reason being,I'd make a cpl dz. sell'm for what? Probably 50$ or less....

Point being,it's a nice way to help shooting community,and not making any bones about it being original/unmolested. The epoxy just makes it a DIY,and a little more reversible should the guy ever want to get into welding?
 
Any chance of getting a reverse casting of the pattern? Wax may not be hard enough...clay or even lead maybe? Make a small stamp, fill the unused holes with epoxy then stamp the pattern before the epoxy fully hardens. Paint when you're done.

Or, have the top milled, then attach your cover trim. Keep the profile the same dimensions...but that wouldn't be the cheap route.
 
1-12 INF (M) said:
If I really wanted to save that rifle, I'd get a smith to weld them over, and grind the top of the receiver smooth, then blue. Then put a proper sight on it. I like aperture sights too.
Click to expand...

Just a question, the receiver and other parts are heat treated, I suppose we would use TIG and try to keep the heat localized?
 
3Crows said:
Just a question, the receiver and other parts are heat treated, I suppose we would use TIG and try to keep the heat localized?
Click to expand...

I was a welder for 17 years

There's no way I'd weld over the receiver threads on a rifle receiver that's of an unknown composition nor would I trust anyone who says they can. You cannot keep the heat affected zone THAT localized

Hard nope

I have a possible solution on order and will post about it when it arrives
 
R.W.Dale said:
I was a welder for 17 years

There's no way I'd weld over the receiver threads on a rifle receiver that's of an unknown composition nor would I trust anyone who says they can. You cannot keep the heat affected zone THAT localized

Hard nope

I have a possible solution on order and will post about it when it arrives
Click to expand...

I was inquiring as to his suggested process in post #40.
 
3Crows said:
Skinner may have the answer:

http://skinnersights.com/1895_sight_4.html

Scroll down to the Skinner Alaskan.

Unless you want a scope on it that makes the most sense of all the solutions offered to me. I do not like shiny things in my sight radius so I really wouldn't want a brass and especially a silver plate there.

3C
Click to expand...
R.W.Dale said:
I was a welder for 17 years

There's no way I'd weld over the receiver threads on a rifle receiver that's of an unknown composition nor would I trust anyone who says they can. You cannot keep the heat affected zone THAT localized

Hard nope

I have a possible solution on order and will post about it when it arrives
Click to expand...

We used to spot anneal Enfield 17 receivers so they could be drilled and tapped with no ill effect. There is a paste that you put around the spot you anneal but I cannot remember the name of it. Tig one hole, cool, and do another until finished.
 
doubleh said:
We used to spot anneal Enfield 17 receivers so they could be drilled and tapped with no ill effect. There is a paste that you put around the spot you anneal but I cannot remember the name of it. Tig one hole, cool, and do another until finished.
Click to expand...
Heat stop paste. Brownells sells it.
 
Anything you add on top will take away some of the range of your William's peep.. its never going to be original so any further efforts will not add value... if it were me I would have it tigged up, and the entire top milled flat. Then professionally blued. That might be the most expensive route but I'd probably do most of it myself...
 
I would think that a pro gunsmith would be able to weld that okay. After all, there's Garand receivers that have been welded back together that run okay - as long as the alignment was right. Not that I'd own or shoot one, but just saying it's possible.
 
That 'waffling' looks like something done with a hardened roller with the positive pattern machined into it, like a knurler.

If it is that important, have a pro shop reproduce the roller, tig & machine the top, and re-mark it back to year one.

Conelrad
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

D
  • Locked
My Marlin 336A
Replies
20
Views
5K
C.R.
C.R.
A
  • Locked
Marlin 336A
Replies
9
Views
2K
A_Matthew
A
L
  • Locked
Old Marlin 336 found at a ranch sale.
Replies
16
Views
1K
bikerdoc
bikerdoc
G
  • Locked
Marlin 1894 .44 Mag - What do I have???
Replies
10
Views
2K
Asherdan
Asherdan
someguy2800
  • Locked
Dang it Marlin you got me again, can't you do anything right?
2 3
Replies
60
Views
4K
Geno
G
Back
Top