Zeroing the scope
- Thread starter Ken C
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MtnCreek
Member
What rifle and mounts? Any chance the front / rear are reversed?
MtnCreek
Member
Unless the mounts have elevation built in, that shouldn't be the problem (I don't think). I think savage round backs are some dia front & back. Measure the height from receiver to scope to confirm. It sounds like a scope issue.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Have you tried bore sighting it yet to see if it acts like the scope is adjusting properly?
rc
rc
Both front and read mounts are the same, measured with a micrometer.
The first 2 shots were about 10-12" low at 25 yards. Dialed in all the "Up" on the Leupold scope and the next 2 shots were about 6-7" low. So the scope adjustments are working.
I understand not wanting to just shim up the rear mount but not sure if a one piece mount will work. Will it block the ejection ? I'll try and do some research.
The first 2 shots were about 10-12" low at 25 yards. Dialed in all the "Up" on the Leupold scope and the next 2 shots were about 6-7" low. So the scope adjustments are working.
I understand not wanting to just shim up the rear mount but not sure if a one piece mount will work. Will it block the ejection ? I'll try and do some research.
MtnCreek
Member
I still think there's a scope issue. EGW makes an economical 1 pc rail. A 30 moa rail should put you about where you need to be (I'm not accounting for any height changes). I still don't think that's the right fix.
Edit: Sorry. More toward your question; Sinclair makes shims. Some folks use aluminum coke cans. FWIW, I don't really like the idea of it, but I'm a little strange.
I wouldn't want to shim 2 pc mounts. That would put your scope in a bind.
Edit: Sorry. More toward your question; Sinclair makes shims. Some folks use aluminum coke cans. FWIW, I don't really like the idea of it, but I'm a little strange.
I wouldn't want to shim 2 pc mounts. That would put your scope in a bind.
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Kernel
Member
Remove the bolt and bore-sight while looking down the barrel. Align the cross hairs on some tiny spot way past 100 yds (the farther away the better), while at the same time, centering that same tiny spot in the barrel - while looking down it. I like to use a neighbor's pole light at night that's about a mile away.
When I can do this I'm always on the paper at 100 yds.
Another thing to do is mechanically center your scope. Count how many clicks are in the full range - max low to max high, and max right to max left - then divide that number in half and put the cross hair at that many clicks. That lets you know how out-of-wack your rings/base are.
Ideally, every thing should align pretty close with the scope mechanically zeroed like that. If not, then that's when it's time to start playing with the rings and base - shimming, sanding, replacing. You want that rough mechanical zero as a starting point.
Sometimes just swapping the rings, front to back, back to front, will have some benefit. Or flipping a base around (if possible, depending on the design, of course).
When I can do this I'm always on the paper at 100 yds.
Another thing to do is mechanically center your scope. Count how many clicks are in the full range - max low to max high, and max right to max left - then divide that number in half and put the cross hair at that many clicks. That lets you know how out-of-wack your rings/base are.
Ideally, every thing should align pretty close with the scope mechanically zeroed like that. If not, then that's when it's time to start playing with the rings and base - shimming, sanding, replacing. You want that rough mechanical zero as a starting point.
Sometimes just swapping the rings, front to back, back to front, will have some benefit. Or flipping a base around (if possible, depending on the design, of course).
I would not shim anything or buy anything new yet.
I would
Make sure the scope isn't touching the barrel.
Mechanically center the scope.
Remove scope & rings. (What kind of rings are they?)
Remove the bases.
Look at everything carefully. Check for bumps or burrs.
Swap bases front to rear, or turn one or both around.
Carefully reinstall everything.
I would
Make sure the scope isn't touching the barrel.
Mechanically center the scope.
Remove scope & rings. (What kind of rings are they?)
Remove the bases.
Look at everything carefully. Check for bumps or burrs.
Swap bases front to rear, or turn one or both around.
Carefully reinstall everything.
Went ahead and purchased a set of Burris Signature Zee rings and the offset kit. Should be here by the end of the week. Hopefully, I can figure out the right combination of offsets to zero the scope.
I tried pulling the bolt and looking down the barrel. Only thing I found out is I can't see sh.... !! This is a .223 Rem and the bore is tiny. Had no idea what I was looking at.
We'll see ... (no pun intended)
I tried pulling the bolt and looking down the barrel. Only thing I found out is I can't see sh.... !! This is a .223 Rem and the bore is tiny. Had no idea what I was looking at.
We'll see ... (no pun intended)
jakk280rem
Member
Had the same issue with a Ruger. except it shot high. by almost a foot after i ran it of adjustments. went back and remounted the rings to the recover and the scope to the rings. whatever i did the first time, was wrong because after the second i was on paper in 1 shot. my advise is to call a mulligan and start over. retourque everything and try again.
beatledog7
Member
If you can't see a bright orange dot on a black background (or similar well-lit, high-contrast object) at 25 feet through your bore, then either your bore is not aligned with that object or your eyesight is in need of a fix.
greyling22
Member
I had the same issue with a zastava mini-mauser. it was about 4" low at 100 yds. After fighting with it for a long time I broke down and bought the burris offset kit and rings. Fixed it right up. Kind of ugly though.......
Kernel
Member
That's why a small far away point-of-light at night works so well. Especially with .223's and .22's. You don't really "see" the target. You see the light it gives off. Sort of like stars in the night sky. You don't see the star. It's billions of miles away. You seeing the light the star gave off.
When you get you Burris ring kit be sure to start from a mechanically zeroed scope. You'll still need to bore sight - while making adjustments to the ring offsets. If you don't, or can't, playing around with those offsets can be very frustrating and time consuming.
Kernel
Member
...
Did you make sure the windage and elevation were centered before you mounted the scope? I had an issue with my leupold scope running out of adjustments and still being low. I have exposed turrets, and found that if I removed the knob, I could move the it past the stop point, reattach it, and adjust it further. It took me a few times of doing that process but I finally got it dialed in. Hope this helps.
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