I'm new to revolvers as of about two months ago. I shoot and clean several times a week. I have a few different ways to clean them, and I'm interested to read what others find works best for them. This isn't so much a question of how to clean a revolver as there are numerous explanations and video demonstrations of that already. Instead, I'd like to read about what you've found works better rather than just what will get the job done.
Up until now, I've just been cleaning on a wood bench top with a cotton rag for a pad. I just ordered a MTM vise for holding the .22 rifle when I clean it. I will try using it to hold revolvers as well, but I haven't had a hard time holding a hand gun with my left hand while cleaning with the right. Having two hands free is probably of most use when trying to keep a long bore snake out of knots.
I have Hoppes Viper boresnakes, which I like but I tend to use less on snub nose guns. I have one for the .22LR rifle that I like to use on a long-barreled .22LR single-action revolver. I'll use it on the barrel but not the cylinder.
For short barrels and cylinders, I really enjoy using 4" Dewey rods. These are simple brass rods with a finger loop and they're inexpensive enough that I bought a collection of them so I don't have to change the end brushes, mops and so on. I just set all the rods with attachments for a caliber in a Mason jar.
I've been using Hoppes #9 for the bore and cylinder. From what else I've read on forums, there's a lot of people convinced it's still the best bore cleaner. I understand it's an ammonia-based cleaner, and it seems to break up copper fouling well.
I have some Ballistol also, another ammonia-based cleaner. I'm not sure what the difference is between #9 and Ballistol. My perception is that Ballistol is slower to break up fouling, but may work better as a lubricant and preservative. That is based on how I see other people using it. I have not used it long enough to know from personal experience.
I like to use #9 and Ballistol from a small plastic bottle with a needle. I can soak a mop with it without contaminating the bottle with a dirty mop, and I can place drops directly in the forcing cone or cylinder. I also find I waste a lot less of it and a bottle lasts longer using these little needle oilers.
When I clean, I soak the bore and cylinder chambers with a bore cleaner like #9, putting drops directly in there or swabbing it with a soaked wool mop. After it sits a few minutes, I'll soak it with more bore cleaner. At this point, there's usually some black slime in there, especially with rimfire guns.
Now I have a choice. I can either wipe the black slime off with patches, or I can blast it out with Rem Action Cleaner. The action cleaner solvent seems more convenient, but I don't like to use it anywhere near wood grips.
If I'm cleaning with Ballistol, I won't remove wood grips as I believe it is safe or even good for wood. I don't know if Hoppes #9 is good for wood, but I use it only on the bores of the cylinders and barrel, so I will still leave the wood grips on.
If I'm not washing a gun stripped of wood grips with the action cleaner solvent, then I'll use inexpensive square Birchwood Casey patches on a loop holder so I can wipe back and forth.
If the fouling is light, which it usually is with only 100-150 centerfire rounds, I'll skip wiping with patches and go straight to the brushes. But if I've wiped it, I'll add some fresh bore cleaner and scrub with brushes.
I believe a bronze bristle brush is best for the rifled bore. My thinking is the bristle ends can scrape into corner of the grooves. For the smoothbore cylinder chambers, I use a Tornado brush. That seems reasonable to me, but I don't know if it works better or not.
After I've cleaned the bore and cylinder chambers, I use a nylon toothbrush to scrub around the forcing cone, the top-strap, and the recoil shield. I'll also scrub under the ejector star and around the yoke. I will scrub the front of the cylinder, but I don't go as far as trying to erase the marks there or polish them off.
I wonder if a bronze brush would clean better around the forcing cone and top strap than a nylon brush, or if it would scratch the finish. I don't have one, but I would be willing to try it on a stainless steel gun. I worry more about using it on a blued steel gun or a black anodized aluminum gun.
With all the fouling brushed loose, I will wipe it off with a cotton rag. I'll put a round cotton patch on a brass jag and push it through the bore. I'll flip it over and push it through the bore and cylinder and change patches until they come out clean.
For protecting metal finishes, I'll wipe with Ballistol or RemOil. Ballistol aerosol is sort of a splatter, while RemOil aerosol is a fine mist. I just recently bought a can of Breakfree, because I wanted to try something not ammonia-based. I haven't used it long enough to compare it, but it splatters similar to Ballistol. I like the way RemOil sprays better, just because it mists more evenly and wiping excess off seems easier, but I'm not sure which one works better to protect or lubricate the metal or the wood grips.
Keep in mind I am cleaning the same gun(s) three or four times a week (once after each day it's shot). I also live in a very arid region. Because of these things, I am not concerned about long-term preservation. If I have a gun that I don't often use, I will protect it in storage with Renaissance Wax. I also use that on larger knife blades that get less use, but not the ones I use to open boxes. For the guns I use frequently, I'll mist it with RemOil or wipe it with Ballistol. I'll wipe it until there's no longer wet spots and polish it with the cotton rag. I think it's better the gun is dry rather than being soaked in oil.
There's another recent thread discussing whether people lubricate revolver lockwork or not. I haven't really concerned myself with lubricating any more than what results from spraying and wiping Ballistol or RemOil. I know my revolvers are neither bone dry nor have aged gunk inside so that is not a concern I have at the moment, and I believe a very thin film of lubricant is sufficient and will better avoid a buildup of gunk than thick oil or grease. My carry revolvers have concealed hammers which I believe helps in keeping dirt and debris out compared to ones with exposed or shrouded hammer spurs.
I appreciate anyone who takes time to discuss any of the points I've brought up or who has something to add.
Up until now, I've just been cleaning on a wood bench top with a cotton rag for a pad. I just ordered a MTM vise for holding the .22 rifle when I clean it. I will try using it to hold revolvers as well, but I haven't had a hard time holding a hand gun with my left hand while cleaning with the right. Having two hands free is probably of most use when trying to keep a long bore snake out of knots.
I have Hoppes Viper boresnakes, which I like but I tend to use less on snub nose guns. I have one for the .22LR rifle that I like to use on a long-barreled .22LR single-action revolver. I'll use it on the barrel but not the cylinder.
For short barrels and cylinders, I really enjoy using 4" Dewey rods. These are simple brass rods with a finger loop and they're inexpensive enough that I bought a collection of them so I don't have to change the end brushes, mops and so on. I just set all the rods with attachments for a caliber in a Mason jar.
I've been using Hoppes #9 for the bore and cylinder. From what else I've read on forums, there's a lot of people convinced it's still the best bore cleaner. I understand it's an ammonia-based cleaner, and it seems to break up copper fouling well.
I have some Ballistol also, another ammonia-based cleaner. I'm not sure what the difference is between #9 and Ballistol. My perception is that Ballistol is slower to break up fouling, but may work better as a lubricant and preservative. That is based on how I see other people using it. I have not used it long enough to know from personal experience.
I like to use #9 and Ballistol from a small plastic bottle with a needle. I can soak a mop with it without contaminating the bottle with a dirty mop, and I can place drops directly in the forcing cone or cylinder. I also find I waste a lot less of it and a bottle lasts longer using these little needle oilers.
When I clean, I soak the bore and cylinder chambers with a bore cleaner like #9, putting drops directly in there or swabbing it with a soaked wool mop. After it sits a few minutes, I'll soak it with more bore cleaner. At this point, there's usually some black slime in there, especially with rimfire guns.
Now I have a choice. I can either wipe the black slime off with patches, or I can blast it out with Rem Action Cleaner. The action cleaner solvent seems more convenient, but I don't like to use it anywhere near wood grips.
If I'm cleaning with Ballistol, I won't remove wood grips as I believe it is safe or even good for wood. I don't know if Hoppes #9 is good for wood, but I use it only on the bores of the cylinders and barrel, so I will still leave the wood grips on.
If I'm not washing a gun stripped of wood grips with the action cleaner solvent, then I'll use inexpensive square Birchwood Casey patches on a loop holder so I can wipe back and forth.
If the fouling is light, which it usually is with only 100-150 centerfire rounds, I'll skip wiping with patches and go straight to the brushes. But if I've wiped it, I'll add some fresh bore cleaner and scrub with brushes.
I believe a bronze bristle brush is best for the rifled bore. My thinking is the bristle ends can scrape into corner of the grooves. For the smoothbore cylinder chambers, I use a Tornado brush. That seems reasonable to me, but I don't know if it works better or not.
After I've cleaned the bore and cylinder chambers, I use a nylon toothbrush to scrub around the forcing cone, the top-strap, and the recoil shield. I'll also scrub under the ejector star and around the yoke. I will scrub the front of the cylinder, but I don't go as far as trying to erase the marks there or polish them off.
I wonder if a bronze brush would clean better around the forcing cone and top strap than a nylon brush, or if it would scratch the finish. I don't have one, but I would be willing to try it on a stainless steel gun. I worry more about using it on a blued steel gun or a black anodized aluminum gun.
With all the fouling brushed loose, I will wipe it off with a cotton rag. I'll put a round cotton patch on a brass jag and push it through the bore. I'll flip it over and push it through the bore and cylinder and change patches until they come out clean.
For protecting metal finishes, I'll wipe with Ballistol or RemOil. Ballistol aerosol is sort of a splatter, while RemOil aerosol is a fine mist. I just recently bought a can of Breakfree, because I wanted to try something not ammonia-based. I haven't used it long enough to compare it, but it splatters similar to Ballistol. I like the way RemOil sprays better, just because it mists more evenly and wiping excess off seems easier, but I'm not sure which one works better to protect or lubricate the metal or the wood grips.
Keep in mind I am cleaning the same gun(s) three or four times a week (once after each day it's shot). I also live in a very arid region. Because of these things, I am not concerned about long-term preservation. If I have a gun that I don't often use, I will protect it in storage with Renaissance Wax. I also use that on larger knife blades that get less use, but not the ones I use to open boxes. For the guns I use frequently, I'll mist it with RemOil or wipe it with Ballistol. I'll wipe it until there's no longer wet spots and polish it with the cotton rag. I think it's better the gun is dry rather than being soaked in oil.
There's another recent thread discussing whether people lubricate revolver lockwork or not. I haven't really concerned myself with lubricating any more than what results from spraying and wiping Ballistol or RemOil. I know my revolvers are neither bone dry nor have aged gunk inside so that is not a concern I have at the moment, and I believe a very thin film of lubricant is sufficient and will better avoid a buildup of gunk than thick oil or grease. My carry revolvers have concealed hammers which I believe helps in keeping dirt and debris out compared to ones with exposed or shrouded hammer spurs.
I appreciate anyone who takes time to discuss any of the points I've brought up or who has something to add.