revolver cleaning

[labnoti]

I'm new to revolvers as of about two months ago. I shoot and clean several times a week. I have a few different ways to clean them, and I'm interested to read what others find works best for them. This isn't so much a question of how to clean a revolver as there are numerous explanations and video demonstrations of that already. Instead, I'd like to read about what you've found works better rather than just what will get the job done.

Up until now, I've just been cleaning on a wood bench top with a cotton rag for a pad. I just ordered a MTM vise for holding the .22 rifle when I clean it. I will try using it to hold revolvers as well, but I haven't had a hard time holding a hand gun with my left hand while cleaning with the right. Having two hands free is probably of most use when trying to keep a long bore snake out of knots.

I have Hoppes Viper boresnakes, which I like but I tend to use less on snub nose guns. I have one for the .22LR rifle that I like to use on a long-barreled .22LR single-action revolver. I'll use it on the barrel but not the cylinder.

For short barrels and cylinders, I really enjoy using 4" Dewey rods. These are simple brass rods with a finger loop and they're inexpensive enough that I bought a collection of them so I don't have to change the end brushes, mops and so on. I just set all the rods with attachments for a caliber in a Mason jar.

I've been using Hoppes #9 for the bore and cylinder. From what else I've read on forums, there's a lot of people convinced it's still the best bore cleaner. I understand it's an ammonia-based cleaner, and it seems to break up copper fouling well.

I have some Ballistol also, another ammonia-based cleaner. I'm not sure what the difference is between #9 and Ballistol. My perception is that Ballistol is slower to break up fouling, but may work better as a lubricant and preservative. That is based on how I see other people using it. I have not used it long enough to know from personal experience.

I like to use #9 and Ballistol from a small plastic bottle with a needle. I can soak a mop with it without contaminating the bottle with a dirty mop, and I can place drops directly in the forcing cone or cylinder. I also find I waste a lot less of it and a bottle lasts longer using these little needle oilers.

When I clean, I soak the bore and cylinder chambers with a bore cleaner like #9, putting drops directly in there or swabbing it with a soaked wool mop. After it sits a few minutes, I'll soak it with more bore cleaner. At this point, there's usually some black slime in there, especially with rimfire guns.

Now I have a choice. I can either wipe the black slime off with patches, or I can blast it out with Rem Action Cleaner. The action cleaner solvent seems more convenient, but I don't like to use it anywhere near wood grips.

If I'm cleaning with Ballistol, I won't remove wood grips as I believe it is safe or even good for wood. I don't know if Hoppes #9 is good for wood, but I use it only on the bores of the cylinders and barrel, so I will still leave the wood grips on.

If I'm not washing a gun stripped of wood grips with the action cleaner solvent, then I'll use inexpensive square Birchwood Casey patches on a loop holder so I can wipe back and forth.

If the fouling is light, which it usually is with only 100-150 centerfire rounds, I'll skip wiping with patches and go straight to the brushes. But if I've wiped it, I'll add some fresh bore cleaner and scrub with brushes.

I believe a bronze bristle brush is best for the rifled bore. My thinking is the bristle ends can scrape into corner of the grooves. For the smoothbore cylinder chambers, I use a Tornado brush. That seems reasonable to me, but I don't know if it works better or not.

After I've cleaned the bore and cylinder chambers, I use a nylon toothbrush to scrub around the forcing cone, the top-strap, and the recoil shield. I'll also scrub under the ejector star and around the yoke. I will scrub the front of the cylinder, but I don't go as far as trying to erase the marks there or polish them off.

I wonder if a bronze brush would clean better around the forcing cone and top strap than a nylon brush, or if it would scratch the finish. I don't have one, but I would be willing to try it on a stainless steel gun. I worry more about using it on a blued steel gun or a black anodized aluminum gun.

With all the fouling brushed loose, I will wipe it off with a cotton rag. I'll put a round cotton patch on a brass jag and push it through the bore. I'll flip it over and push it through the bore and cylinder and change patches until they come out clean.

For protecting metal finishes, I'll wipe with Ballistol or RemOil. Ballistol aerosol is sort of a splatter, while RemOil aerosol is a fine mist. I just recently bought a can of Breakfree, because I wanted to try something not ammonia-based. I haven't used it long enough to compare it, but it splatters similar to Ballistol. I like the way RemOil sprays better, just because it mists more evenly and wiping excess off seems easier, but I'm not sure which one works better to protect or lubricate the metal or the wood grips.

Keep in mind I am cleaning the same gun(s) three or four times a week (once after each day it's shot). I also live in a very arid region. Because of these things, I am not concerned about long-term preservation. If I have a gun that I don't often use, I will protect it in storage with Renaissance Wax. I also use that on larger knife blades that get less use, but not the ones I use to open boxes. For the guns I use frequently, I'll mist it with RemOil or wipe it with Ballistol. I'll wipe it until there's no longer wet spots and polish it with the cotton rag. I think it's better the gun is dry rather than being soaked in oil.

There's another recent thread discussing whether people lubricate revolver lockwork or not. I haven't really concerned myself with lubricating any more than what results from spraying and wiping Ballistol or RemOil. I know my revolvers are neither bone dry nor have aged gunk inside so that is not a concern I have at the moment, and I believe a very thin film of lubricant is sufficient and will better avoid a buildup of gunk than thick oil or grease. My carry revolvers have concealed hammers which I believe helps in keeping dirt and debris out compared to ones with exposed or shrouded hammer spurs.

I appreciate anyone who takes time to discuss any of the points I've brought up or who has something to add.

 

[AZAndy]

I go one size up on the brush for the chambers-- for a .38 or .357, I do the chambers with a .40 brush.

If you ever do a lot of shooting with something like Unique and wind up with a very sooty gun, brake cleaner works nicely to take off a few layers of filth. A lot cheaper than the brand-name fancy spray cleaners.

I mostly just use CLP to clean with, though I'll use Bore Tech Eliminator on a really disgusting bore.

Your cleaning regimen seems fine to me, though if it takes more than ten minutes, you're working too hard.

 

[George P]

Chambers and barrel get a spritz of brake cleaner, followed by a brush - when doing the barrel, I place something in front of the firing pin hole to make sure the top nib of the brush doesn't hit it. Then a jag with some Cleanzoil, followed by a patch with a light oil coating.

 

[mcb]

Clean a revolver? What is this you speak of? Its like a mower, add oil when needed and keep going.

In all honesty mine don't get much more than the occasional quick whip down with a clean dry cotton rag and a bore snake pulled through them with a few drops of CLP on it, and a few drops more of CLP on the moving parts. If I am feeling fastidious I will fill the star and end of the extractor rod with red high pressure bearing grease.

 

[Bama59]

On my old M65 I soak the cylinder and barrel with Hoopes9 and then go through with bronze brush . For me a loop and patch cleans the charging holes better than Jag , I do use a Jag in the barrel and then go through with Rem oil. Hoppes 9 is mostly Kerosene , Ethyl Alcohol just 10% watered down Ammonia and Banana extract for scent

 

[rpenmanparker]

Have the “never cleaners” always been among us? I never knew of them until joining shooting forums. Everyone I shoot with cleans their guns religiously after every range session. Semi-automatics, revolvers, rifles, shotguns, howitzers, mortars, no matter. Clean them all every time. What is this world coming to?

 

[labnoti]

- when doing the barrel, I place something in front of the firing pin hole to make sure the top nib of the brush doesn't hit it.

Right. I usually just stick my hand in there so when the patch or brush breaks free of the forcing cone the rod doesn't hit the back of the frame. If I'm having to use more force, I'll wad up a rag there so I don't stab myself. It can also help to have my right hand that's pushing the rod also touching the table so it's braced and isn't just shoving into freespace once the rod is no longer providing any resistance.

 

[George P]

Right. I usually just stick my hand in there so when the patch or brush breaks free of the forcing cone the rod doesn't hit the back of the frame. If I'm having to use more force, I'll wad up a rag there so I don't stab myself. It can also help to have my right hand that's pushing the rod also touching the table so it's braced and isn't just shoving into freespace once the rod is no longer providing any resistance.

Mine is a small piece of pegboard - works great.

 

[rpenmanparker]

On my old M65 I soak the cylinder and barrel with Hoopes9 and then go through with bronze brush . For me a loop and patch cleans the charging holes better than Jag , I do use a Jag in the barrel and then go through with Rem oil. Hoppes 9 is mostly Kerosene , Ethyl Alcohol just 10% watered down Ammonia and Banana extract for scent
View attachment 792152

The amyl acetate that you are calling banana extract MAY be for more than scent. It is functionally a solvent.

 

[rsrocket1]

I've never been able to get the cylinder to spin freely on my Ruger Service Six until I disassembled it and cleaned the insides. I've tried all sorts of solvents and penetrants but never really got it cleaned to where it spun freely. It really wasn't difficult to remove once you learn that it is a reverse threaded attachment and that makes reassembly very easy. You don't need to torque it down all that hard. I've only done it about once every other year but a smoothly spinning cylinder is really nice.

 

[Sappyg2.0]

The OPs question is 'what have you found that works best'

In no particular order. Breakcleaner works great followed by compressed air. CLP has been good. That, along with hoppe's #9, pretty much covers all the bases for me. I don't use bore snakes on revolvers but I'm sure they're fine. A toothbrush is absolutely essential for me and I prefer jags. I seldom use a bore brush

 

[mcb]

Have the “never cleaners” always been among us? I never knew of them until joining shooting forums. Everyone I shoot with cleans their guns religiously after every range session. Semi-automatics, revolvers, rifles, shotguns, howitzers, mortars, no matter. Clean them all every time. What is this world coming to?

I was not always a never (nearly never) cleaner but the more I shot the less I cleaned. After I joined USPSA my cleaning schedule starting slipping. I was shooting nearly every weekend and occasionally two matches in a weekend. Combine that with a fairly regular Wednesday night practice session I simply did not have the time to clean guns after every session, not if I was going to do anything else. Not to mention reloading sessions to feed the obsession. I also quickly learned it did not matter. My guns did not become any less reliable even when filthy. I made sure they had lots of lubrication and if I had a chance I would wipe them out real quick but they almost never got a detail clean, it simply wasn't worth the effort since it would be only a few days before they would be dirty again. I did other things to help though, like using CMJ, plated or coated bullets to reduce lead deposits and I used Vihtavuori and other similar clean burning powders. Modern ammunition is just not corrosive and modern guns have to be super dirty before they become unreliable.

The old 627 has not seen more than a bore snake and some CLP in many many moon(clips).

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

I have some Ballistol also, another ammonia-based cleaner. I'm not sure what the difference is between #9 and Ballistol. My perception is that Ballistol is slower to break up fouling, but may work better as a lubricant and preservative. That is based on how I see other people using it. I have not used it long enough to know from personal experience.

Howdy

Ballistol is not ammonia based, although I do find the vapors tend to make me sneeze. It is based on Isobutyl Alcohol. Ballistol was developed by the Germans before WWI as an all round cleaner for firearms and leather. Here is a link to the Ballistol MSDS.

http://www.ballistol.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/MSDS_TECH_BIO.pdf

I use Ballistol pretty much exclusively for lubricating revolvers, rifles, and shotguns fired with Black Powder, as a lubricant and preservative after first cleaning them with a water based solution. Some shooters use Ballistol to clean Black Powder fouling, some dilute it with water. It will work all these ways, but water based solutions are cheaper.

However Hoppes #9 is a much more efficient powder solvent for Smokeless powder than Ballistol. I sat down and cleaned a 1911 years ago with Ballistol just for the fun of it. It took a lot more elbow grease to clean it with Ballistol than Hoppes #9. Hoppes #9, or any solvent for Smokeless powder, is a more aggressive solvent than Ballistol. However, most Smokeless solvents, including Hoppes #9 are toxic. Ballistol is far less toxic, although I do not recommend drinking it.

I have been using Hoppes #9 for many years, it will not hurt the finish on most modern wooden grips. You might want to try it on an inconspicuous spot on the grips first, just to make sure.

 

[ACES&8S]

I'm new to revolvers as of about two months ago. I shoot and clean several times a week. I have a few different ways to clean them, and I'm interested to read what others find works best for them. This isn't so much a question of how to clean a revolver as there are numerous explanations and video demonstrations of that already. Instead, I'd like to read about what you've found works better rather than just what will get the job done.

Up until now, I've just been cleaning on a wood bench top with a cotton rag for a pad. I just ordered a MTM vise for holding the .22 rifle when I clean it. I will try using it to hold revolvers as well, but I haven't had a hard time holding a hand gun with my left hand while cleaning with the right. Having two hands free is probably of most use when trying to keep a long bore snake out of knots.

I have Hoppes Viper boresnakes, which I like but I tend to use less on snub nose guns. I have one for the .22LR rifle that I like to use on a long-barreled .22LR single-action revolver. I'll use it on the barrel but not the cylinder.

For short barrels and cylinders, I really enjoy using 4" Dewey rods. These are simple brass rods with a finger loop and they're inexpensive enough that I bought a collection of them so I don't have to change the end brushes, mops and so on. I just set all the rods with attachments for a caliber in a Mason jar.

I've been using Hoppes #9 for the bore and cylinder. From what else I've read on forums, there's a lot of people convinced it's still the best bore cleaner. I understand it's an ammonia-based cleaner, and it seems to break up copper fouling well.

I have some Ballistol also, another ammonia-based cleaner. I'm not sure what the difference is between #9 and Ballistol. My perception is that Ballistol is slower to break up fouling, but may work better as a lubricant and preservative. That is based on how I see other people using it. I have not used it long enough to know from personal experience.

I like to use #9 and Ballistol from a small plastic bottle with a needle. I can soak a mop with it without contaminating the bottle with a dirty mop, and I can place drops directly in the forcing cone or cylinder. I also find I waste a lot less of it and a bottle lasts longer using these little needle oilers.

When I clean, I soak the bore and cylinder chambers with a bore cleaner like #9, putting drops directly in there or swabbing it with a soaked wool mop. After it sits a few minutes, I'll soak it with more bore cleaner. At this point, there's usually some black slime in there, especially with rimfire guns.

Now I have a choice. I can either wipe the black slime off with patches, or I can blast it out with Rem Action Cleaner. The action cleaner solvent seems more convenient, but I don't like to use it anywhere near wood grips.

If I'm cleaning with Ballistol, I won't remove wood grips as I believe it is safe or even good for wood. I don't know if Hoppes #9 is good for wood, but I use it only on the bores of the cylinders and barrel, so I will still leave the wood grips on.

If I'm not washing a gun stripped of wood grips with the action cleaner solvent, then I'll use inexpensive square Birchwood Casey patches on a loop holder so I can wipe back and forth.

If the fouling is light, which it usually is with only 100-150 centerfire rounds, I'll skip wiping with patches and go straight to the brushes. But if I've wiped it, I'll add some fresh bore cleaner and scrub with brushes.

I believe a bronze bristle brush is best for the rifled bore. My thinking is the bristle ends can scrape into corner of the grooves. For the smoothbore cylinder chambers, I use a Tornado brush. That seems reasonable to me, but I don't know if it works better or not.

After I've cleaned the bore and cylinder chambers, I use a nylon toothbrush to scrub around the forcing cone, the top-strap, and the recoil shield. I'll also scrub under the ejector star and around the yoke. I will scrub the front of the cylinder, but I don't go as far as trying to erase the marks there or polish them off.

I wonder if a bronze brush would clean better around the forcing cone and top strap than a nylon brush, or if it would scratch the finish. I don't have one, but I would be willing to try it on a stainless steel gun. I worry more about using it on a blued steel gun or a black anodized aluminum gun.

With all the fouling brushed loose, I will wipe it off with a cotton rag. I'll put a round cotton patch on a brass jag and push it through the bore. I'll flip it over and push it through the bore and cylinder and change patches until they come out clean.

For protecting metal finishes, I'll wipe with Ballistol or RemOil. Ballistol aerosol is sort of a splatter, while RemOil aerosol is a fine mist. I just recently bought a can of Breakfree, because I wanted to try something not ammonia-based. I haven't used it long enough to compare it, but it splatters similar to Ballistol. I like the way RemOil sprays better, just because it mists more evenly and wiping excess off seems easier, but I'm not sure which one works better to protect or lubricate the metal or the wood grips.

Keep in mind I am cleaning the same gun(s) three or four times a week (once after each day it's shot). I also live in a very arid region. Because of these things, I am not concerned about long-term preservation. If I have a gun that I don't often use, I will protect it in storage with Renaissance Wax. I also use that on larger knife blades that get less use, but not the ones I use to open boxes. For the guns I use frequently, I'll mist it with RemOil or wipe it with Ballistol. I'll wipe it until there's no longer wet spots and polish it with the cotton rag. I think it's better the gun is dry rather than being soaked in oil.

There's another recent thread discussing whether people lubricate revolver lockwork or not. I haven't really concerned myself with lubricating any more than what results from spraying and wiping Ballistol or RemOil. I know my revolvers are neither bone dry nor have aged gunk inside so that is not a concern I have at the moment, and I believe a very thin film of lubricant is sufficient and will better avoid a buildup of gunk than thick oil or grease. My carry revolvers have concealed hammers which I believe helps in keeping dirt and debris out compared to ones with exposed or shrouded hammer spurs.

I appreciate anyone who takes time to discuss any of the points I've brought up or who has something to add.

Sounds like you have a compete regiment set up already.
Only thing you do that I have often wondered about is brass brush the barrels so often. I don't know if really does
wear the barrel that much , but like yourself I shoot revolvers a lot & clean the barrel after every use just in case
there comes a long storage which never seems to come. I have started alternating with the stiff nylon brush more
often even with my rifles. I'm sure there could be debate over the brass brush tight inside steel barrels at repeated
use.
The only real thing I can add to the cleaning solutions is using FLITZ on the front of the cylinders. I use it with a
soft tooth brush to remove the burn completely & makes it look like new. My FLITZ comes from a tube of
tumbler media additive which I once used when I used dry tumbling for case prep. It can also be used on other
burn or buildup areas.
As far as complete cleaning I never dismantle one just for that, I remove the grips, take it to the shop & force
feed the revolver with REM OIL spray can & I mean force feed it. I know this dilutes the grease inside which
to me is replaced with oil & ok. Then let the revolver set in different positions overnight. Next day take my
air compressor & blast out any build up. Never had a problem.

 

[rpenmanparker]

Sounds like you have a compete regiment set up already.
Only thing you do that I have often wondered about is brass brush the barrels so often. I don't know if really does
wear the barrel that much , but like yourself I shoot revolvers a lot & clean the barrel after every use just in case
there comes a long storage which never seems to come. I have started alternating with the stiff nylon brush more
often even with my rifles. I'm sure there could be debate over the brass brush tight inside steel barrels at repeated
use.
The only real thing I can add to the cleaning solutions is using FLITZ on the front of the cylinders. I use it with a
soft tooth brush to remove the burn completely & makes it look like new. My FLITZ comes from a tube of
tumbler media additive which I once used when I used dry tumbling for case prep. It can also be used on other
burn or buildup areas.
As far as complete cleaning I never dismantle one just for that, I remove the grips, take it to the shop & force
feed the revolver with REM OIL spray can & I mean force feed it. I know this dilutes the grease inside which
to me is replaced with oil & ok. Then let the revolver set in different positions overnight. Next day take my
air compressor & blast out any build up. Never had a problem.

Brass is so much softer than steel that it can’t hurt it. I don’t think you need to be concerned.

 

[rpenmanparker]

Brass tools are used in contact with very pricey steel injection molds because of their safety. They don’t scratch or mar the steel.

 

[Riomouse911]

If I shot my revolvers that much I would probably do a wipe-down after every session and clean it like you describe it every 4-5.

 

[Tallball]

1) Dip the brass brush in Hoppes #9 and let the excess drip off. Scrub the bore lightly, the inside of each chamber, the front and back of the cylinder, the area where the firing pin and hand come out, and under the star extractor.

2) Scrub the above areas with bore patches until the patches come out fairly clean.

3) Let a small drop of light oil slide down the ejector rod so that it gets inside the cylinder and work it up and down a dozen times lightly.

4) Rub it all over with a slightly oily rag and put it away.

This has been my procedure after every range session for the past 35+ years. If it takes more than five minutes per revolver, I must be distracted or something. My revolvers always function properly, so apparently I'm doing something right.

 

[Jack B.]

I clean on a wood bench also. I just lay down pieces of the thickest cardboard I can find cut to the size I like. The cardboard absorbs any dripped solvents and oils and doesn't damage the finish on the gun. Helps keep my bench surface clean. Just throw cardboard away when I'm done. That's about all I can add. Sounds like you've got a good established routine going that works for you.

 

[ACES&8S]

Do you ever wonder this?
Look thru the barrel of an empty but dirty never cleaned gun at all that junk obstructing the path
of the soon to come bullet.
When it is fired what does the junk in the barrel do? Does the outgoing pressure instantly push
the junk ahead of the bullet or does it get caught under the bullet & pressed into the rifling?
If it is pushed ahead of the bullet then wouldn't the barrel be cleaner after the bullet passes
thru?
Another thought. If it presses the dirt into the rifling wouldn't that increase pressure & temperature.
I can only make a good guess but I'm sure someone has scientific proof some way or another or
will pretend to know.
I work on lots of guns & so many have never been cleaned = never!
Then when I clean the barrel real well there are gaps in the rifling & unmovable lead deposits.
Most don't shoot worth a crap like that but I have had some that still shot well even in that
condition!

 

[Sav .250]

Over thinking a simple task, no matter the method, gets little positive results. It`s like asking how many ways can you clean a dinner plate.
I have no problem with what your saying, I just see the issue differently.
Swab, wipe and lube where needed. Done.

 

[rpenmanparker]

What I am surprised about is that prior to communicating on a forum all the shooters I knew regarded regular and comprehensive gun cleaning as a nearly religious obligation. I just never knew there was another side to it.

 

[rpenmanparker]

I was not always a never (nearly never) cleaner but the more I shot the less I cleaned. After I joined USPSA my cleaning schedule starting slipping. I was shooting nearly every weekend and occasionally two matches in a weekend. Combine that with a fairly regular Wednesday night practice session I simply did not have the time to clean guns after every session, not if I was going to do anything else. Not to mention reloading sessions to feed the obsession. I also quickly learned it did not matter. My guns did not become any less reliable even when filthy. I made sure they had lots of lubrication and if I had a chance I would wipe them out real quick but they almost never got a detail clean, it simply wasn't worth the effort since it would be only a few days before they would be dirty again. I did other things to help though, like using CMJ, plated or coated bullets to reduce lead deposits and I used Vihtavuori and other similar clean burning powders. Modern ammunition is just not corrosive and modern guns have to be super dirty before they become unreliable.

The old 627 has not seen more than a bore snake and some CLP in many many moon(clips).

View attachment 792176

I was not at all troubled by shooting my gun for several days in a row at my recent training class without cleaning it. But upon returning home, naturally I took care of sprucing it up. Sure, several sessions in a row on the same or consecutive days is a good reason not to clean a gun, but that's a lot different than just putting it up time after time over a long period without cleaning.

 

[mcb]

I was not at all troubled by shooting my gun for several days in a row at my recent training class without cleaning it. But upon returning home, naturally I took care of sprucing it up. Sure, several sessions in a row on the same or consecutive days is a good reason not to clean a gun, but that's a lot different than just putting it up time after time over a long period without cleaning.

In my experience not really. After a match I give it a good look over and function check, wipe the exterior of the gun with a piece of fleece impregnated with RIG grease and it goes back into the cabinet. The night before the match I take it out give it another good look over and function test and add lubrication if needed (it usually gets it anyway). It goes into the range bag for the match.

I probably give them more attention than that every two or three months. Then I simply wipe them out real good with a clean cotton rag, I might take a plastic or bronze brush to any particular obvious carbon build ups. Then put some CLP in each chamber and the barrel and pull a bore snake through each 2-3 times, maybe 4-5 through the bore. I then give it a good lubrication making sure everything is well lubricated. Unlike a carry gun that you want to use minimal lubrication my competition guns are run pretty wet.

Anytime I have my competition guns out, cleaning, dry fire or pre/post match inspection I am looking them over for functional/maintenance issues and address those immediately. If I have one in a state of major disassembly for some reason I usually give them a pretty detailed cleaning in the process since I have them open but that is about the only time they get a detailed cleaning.

 

[Gridley]

What I am surprised about is that prior to communicating on a forum all the shooters I knew regarded regular and comprehensive gun cleaning as a nearly religious obligation. I just never knew there was another side to it.

I did know one "never cleaner" who probably had not, at that time, been on internet gun fora much (late 1990's; a lot of people hadn't caught the forum bug yet). I also got the strong impression that he'd always been a "never cleaner" for revolvers. I've also met a few in person since, though of course they might have gotten the idea from the 'net.

For myself I do exercise much less care in cleaning my revolvers than semi-autos. I do run a boresnake through the barrel and each chamber after each range session, plus a few drops of lube, so I don't consider myself a "never cleaner."

For perspective, note that lots of gun owners never shoot their firearms - or shoot them once and then leave them in a drawer or closet somewhere. Those of us who have multi-gun collections, shoot regularly, and hang out on gun fora may not be the majority. If so, there's no telling what the majority actually do, since on boards like this they appear to be a minority.