Expanding my accumulation of S&Ws. Any models to avoid?

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ontarget

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So I was looking at my accumulation of arms and decided I should add some better quality revolvers to the fold. I like the Smiths and since there is so much knowledge of them here I was wondering if there are any models of S&W revolvers I should avoid? Or maybe any I should definitely add?
I am interested in calibers from .22 up through 45 Colt. Not looking for grizz slayers or elephant killers.
Thanks.
 
So I was looking at my accumulation of arms and decided I should add some better quality revolvers to the fold. I like the Smiths and since there is so much knowledge of them here I was wondering if there are any models of S&W revolvers I should avoid? Or maybe any I should definitely add?
I am interested in calibers from .22 up through 45 Colt. Not looking for grizz slayers or elephant killers.
Thanks.
Gotta check older .357 K-frames for cracked forcing cones, the M19-2 and -3 are particularly suseptible if they were shot with large amounts of hot, light bullets.

Newer Aluminum J-frames (after the pinned barrel was discontinued) are prone to frame cracks beneath the barrel extension. I avoid them like the plague.

Nickel guns can be damaged by copper solvents and bore cleaners, something to watch out for.

I only look at older Smiths, pre-lock. The new production guns may be decent shooters, but are relatively soulless and pale in the fit and finish department.
 
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Howdy

If you want a 22, I suggest a Model 17. I bought this Model 17-3 brand-spanky new in 1975.

Model_17-302_zps1ae99eb4.jpg



Or you could go with the Model 17's predecessor, the K-22. This K-22 Outdoorsman shipped in 1935.

K-22%2006_zpshvbwzzkg.jpg




If you want a 4 inch 22, nothing beats a K-22 Combat Masterpiece. This one shipped in 1953. In 1957, when S&W changed over to a model numbering system, this version became the Model 18.

k22%20combat%20masterpiece%2002_zpspn9uhwgq.jpg




32s are kind of hard to find. I lucked into this K-32 Masterpiece last year. It shipped in 1954.

K-32%2005_zpsh0vf0wol.jpg




38s are easy. The K-38 first appeared in 1946, when S&W was freed up to produce revolvers for the civilian market again. You may have noticed a pattern here. The 'K' means the medium sized K frame, usually chambered in 38 Special. So the K-22 was a 22 rimfire built on the K frame, and the K-32 was a 32 built on the K frame. These were all target revolvers with adjustable rear sights.

k3803_zps20096e37.jpg




In 1957 the K-38 was renamed the Model 14. This Model 14-3 shipped in 1974.

model14-3box02_zps33983522.jpg




Of course, you should have a fixed sight 38 too. The grand daddy of all the K frame Smiths was the 38 Military and Police Model of 1899. This one shipped in 1899.

Model%201899%2002_zps1sin3jmb.jpg




By 1957, the 38 M&P was renamed the Model 10. Probably the most common police revolver in the 20th Century. No S&W shooter should be without a Model 10.

54_zpsda74e49f.jpg




As far as the 357 Magnum is concerned, there is always the Model 27. The Model 27 started out in 1935 simply as The 357 Magnum. In 1957 it became the Model 27. The Model 27 was built on the large N frame.

model%2027%2007_zpszq97oozg.jpg




The Highway Patrolman was introduced in 1954 as a less expensive version of The 357 Magnum. Less polished on the outside, and lacking the fancy checkering on the top of the frame and barrel rib, the lockwork was identical to The 357 and just as good. In 1957 the Highway Patrolman became the Model 28.

Model%2028_01_zpszm3omzpa.jpg




The first 357 Magnum built on the K frame was the 357 Combat Magnum. In 1957 it became the Model 19. I bought this Model 19-3 in 1975, the same year I bought my Model 17-3.

model19-301_zps8ac05206.jpg




44 Special. The 44 Hand Ejector, 1st Model, also known as the New Century, but popularly known as the Triple Lock, appeared in 1908 along with the 44 Special cartridge. They are getting a little bit pricey now. This one shipped in 1913.

Triple%20Lock%20Target%2001_zpsfdv8kdnz.jpg




This 44 Hand Ejector 4th Model shipped in 1955. In 1957 these became known as the Model 24. I looked for a Model 24 for years, but quit looking when I found this 44 Hand Ejector 4th Model.

44handejector4thmodel01.jpg




45ACP. Everybody should have a S&W Model 1917. S&W proposed this model to the US Army before we entered WWI, reasoning that Colt would not be able to supply enough 1911 pistols. The Army thought it was a great idea. This one shipped in 1918.

Model%201917%20and%20Ammo_zps42u3b7tq.jpg




Model 1955 Target. Another 45 ACP revolver. This one shipped in 1955. In 1957 this became the Model 25, available chambered for either 45 ACP or 45 Colt.

Model195503_zps32aa87cf.jpg




44 Magnum. Everybody should have one S&W 44 Mag. This nickel plated Model 29-2 probably shipped around 1967. To tell you the truth, I seldom shoot it, but I like having one Model 29.

Model%2029-2%2001_zps5zet3s0s.jpg
 
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Howdy

If you want a 22, I suggest a Model 17. I bought this Model 17-3 brand-spanky new in 1975.

View attachment 836326




Or you could go with the Model 17's predecessor, the K-22. This K-22 Outdoorsman shipped in 1935.

View attachment 836327




If you want a 4 inch 22, nothing beats a K-22 Combat Masterpiece. This one shipped in 1953. In 1957, when S&W changed over to a model numbering system, this version became the Model 18.

View attachment 836328




32s are kind of hard to find. I lucked into this K-32 Masterpiece last year. It shipped in 1954.

View attachment 836329




38s are easy. The K-38 first appeared in 1946, when S&W was freed up to produce revolvers for the civilian market again. You may have noticed a pattern here. The 'K' means the medium sized K frame, usually chambered in 38 Special. So the K-22 was a 22 rimfire built on the K frame, and the K-32 was a 32 built on the K frame. These were all target revolvers with adjustable rear sights.

View attachment 836330




In 1957 the K-38 was renamed the Model 14. This Model 14-3 shipped in 1974.

View attachment 836331




Of course, you should have a fixed sight 38 too. The grand daddy of all the K frame Smiths was the 38 Military and Police Model of 1899. This one shipped in 1899.

View attachment 836332




By 1957, the 38 M&P was renamed the Model 10. Probably the most common police revolver in the 20th Century. No S&W shooter should be without a Model 10.

View attachment 836333




As far as the 357 Magnum is concerned, there is always the Model 27. The Model 27 started out in 1935 simply as The 357 Magnum. In 1957 it became the Model 27. The Model 27 was built on the large N frame.

View attachment 836334




The Highway Patrolman was introduced in 1954 as a less expensive version of The 357 Magnum. Less polished on the outside, and lacking the fancy checkering on the top of the frame and barrel rib, the lockwork was identical to The 357 and just as good. In 1957 the Highway Patrolman became the Model 28.

View attachment 836335




The first 357 Magnum built on the K frame was the 357 Combat Magnum. In 1957 it became the Model 19. I bought this Model 19-3 in 1975, the same year I bought my Model 17-3.

View attachment 836336




44 Special. The 44 Hand Ejector, 1st Model, also known as the New Century, but popularly known as the Triple Lock, appeared in 1908 along with the 44 Special cartridge. They are getting a little bit pricey now. This one shipped in 1913.

View attachment 836337




This 44 Hand Ejector 4th Model shipped in 1955. In 1957 these became known as the Model 24. I looked for a Model 24 for years, but quit looking when I found this 44 Hand Ejector 4th Model.

View attachment 836338




45ACP. Everybody should have a S&W Model 1917. S&W proposed this model to the US Army before we entered WWI, reasoning that Colt would not be able to supply enough 1911 pistols. The Army thought it was a great idea. This one shipped in 1918.

View attachment 836339




Model 1955 Target. Another 45 ACP revolver. This one shipped in 1955. In 1957 this became the Model 25, available chambered for either 45 ACP or 45 Colt.

View attachment 836340




44 Magnum. Everybody should have one S&W 44 Mag. This nickel plated Model 29-2 probably shipped around 1967. To tell you the truth, I seldom shoot it, but I like having one Model 29.

View attachment 836341

Driftwood, I knew you would contribute to this thread. Thank you very much for all the info.
 
So any prelock model should be good assuming it's in good condition? There is a LGS not too far from me that always has a steady flow of Smiths through their shop.
Pretty sure the owner is a Smith fan. But then he always has a pile of Ruger revolvers on hand too.
I stop by any chance I get and I'm just waiting for one to jump out at me.
 
So any prelock model should be good assuming it's in good condition? There is a LGS not too far from me that always has a steady flow of Smiths through their shop.
Pretty sure the owner is a Smith fan. But then he always has a pile of Ruger revolvers on hand too.
I stop by any chance I get and I'm just waiting for one to jump out at me.
Well, newer Smiths arent bad guns, exactly, but they just dont stir the soul the way the old, hand finished revolvers do. Two piece barrels, internal locks, transfer bars, and MIM parts might make the new ones more accurate, safer, and/or cheaper to produce, but to me do not really enhance the ownership experience.:)


Old Smiths, like any machine, can wear out, and should be inspected for timing, carry-up, endshake, and final lock but overall they are very well made and durable guns. Enjoy!
 
So any prelock model should be good assuming it's in good condition? There is a LGS not too far from me that always has a steady flow of Smiths through their shop.
Well, not any ... some look okay but have been shot loose. Gotta check the lock-up and timing, sometimes more important than the cosmetics. I had a mint Model 60 but someone did a bubba trigger job and I could never get it right.

Buy classic Smiths while they're still available. It's no secret anymore that pre-lock/pre-MIM S&W revolvers are desirable, and prices reflect that. In my area, there seems to be a couple guys who hit up all the local shops on a daily basis (some are members here -- thank you for moving south, Bikemutt) and get to the good ones before I can take a day off from work and find 'em ...
 
I'm no good with Smith &Wesson revolvers, as to model numbers. But it seems to me one area to look out for are the J-Frame and I-Frame revolvers, such as the Terrier, Regulation Police, .22/32 Kit guns, .22/32 Target, etc. All of these predate Model numbers. Survivors of this genre are the Chief's Special, Bodyguard, and Centennial.

As I recall there was a .32 Regulation Police and .38 Regulation Police Model, the .38 was .38 S&W caliber.

Bob Wright
 
As I recall there was a .32 Regulation Police and .38 Regulation Police Model, the .38 was .38 S&W caliber.

Yup

There was a 38 Regulation Police and a 32 Regulation Police. Both built on the I frame, the predecessor to the modern J frame.

In this photo, the 38 is at the top, the 32 is at the bottom. You can tell the difference by looking at the cylinder flutes. The middle flute of the 38 is not at the center of the cylinder, because it is a five shot 38. 38 S&W , not 38 Special. The smaller flutes on the 32 are centered because it is a six shooter. Both of these shipped in 1924.

38%20Reg%20Police%20and%2032%20Reg%20Police%2002_zpsh7nvn1kx.jpg




Both revolvers and their cylinders are the same size, but you can see the difference between the six shot 32 on the left and the five shot 38 on the right.

38%20Reg%20Police%20and%2032%20Reg%20Police%2003_zpsc4dgjufk.jpg




The grips on the regulation Police revolvers were interesting. The grip frame was round. The grips were inletted so they were a little bit longer than the steel grip frame.

stock%20inletting_zpszbpihpl6.jpg




The backstrap disappeared into the grips near the bottom.

32%20HE%203rd%20Model%20grip%20rear_zps3phslpia.jpg




Smith and Wesson patented this grip style. And because the bottom of the grip frame was not visible, the serial number was stamped on the front of the grip frame, rather than in the usual place at the bottom of the grip.

32%20HE%203rd%20Model%20grip%20bottom_zpsrvir0151.jpg




This photo shows how much smaller a regulation Police was than a K frame 38.

MP%20and%2032%20HE%203rd%20Model_zpsxh1cxgrq.jpg
 
You can't go wrong with S&W though you need to look them over for mistreatment. The different frame sizes from small to large are J, K, L, N and X.

I've only owned one J frame and I prefer the K, L and N frames. I started out only wanting a K frame in .38 Spl like I used in the service but seem to find more .357 models for sale.

I have no complaints about the newer revolvers with the lock, all have been good shooters for me. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a new model.
 
Take notice of any and all pre lock Smiths. Heck, even no locks as well.

If it has a lock, S&W didn't give a crap about it as far as I am concerned and neither should you.

Never buy a new product that is in any way inferior to an old product. Guns are durable goods and so the older models are still just fine and you should not support a company who does not care about its own product.
 
So I was looking at my accumulation of arms and decided I should add some better quality revolvers to the fold. I like the Smiths and since there is so much knowledge of them here I was wondering if there are any models of S&W revolvers I should avoid? Or maybe any I should definitely add?
I am interested in calibers from .22 up through 45 Colt. Not looking for grizz slayers or elephant killers.
Thanks.
You could start with a small one. A Chief's Special and/or a Mod.36 cannot be missing in a S&W revolvers collection. Here is my 36-2:
S&W 36-2 01.JPG
 
Take notice of any and all pre lock Smiths. Heck, even no locks as well.

If it has a lock, S&W didn't give a crap about it as far as I am concerned and neither should you.

Never buy a new product that is in any way inferior to an old product. Guns are durable goods and so the older models are still just fine and you should not support a company who does not care about its own product.

^^^^^^^^^^ This is just wrong
 
I've looked at the newer Smiths and they don't hold a candle to the
older models. Looked at a new K22 that was at the LGS and it just did not have
that feel and fit of the older models.
 
You need the following:

Model 25, Model 27, Model 17.
Model 29.

Earlier models like the -2, or pre model 5 screws are best.

Stainless? 629, 627, 617, 625.
Pinned and hammer mounted firing pin are better. New models are good too!.
 
I've owned several of the "new" guns over the years. By "new" I mean with the lock. I've never seen a thing wrong with any of them. I've sold off a lot of my "collection" recently, but four of the half dozen or so I've still got were made since 2000. I've got room in my safe for all.
 
They work but I wouldn’t add any of them to a “collection”. Collections are for uncommon, rare, older, or classic models and variants. I would only maybe include a few distributor exclusives of any Smiths made more recently.

Then again only the collector is the master of the collection.
 
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