GaryinVirginia
Member
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2019
- Messages
- 44
I have no idea what I need. Can you all help me understand?
Oh, boy here we go again....I have no idea what I need. Can you all help me understand?
You'll get lots of opinions on this one, though the thread shouldn't be as long as if you'd asked about Glocks vs. 1911's or revolvers. Basically, in general, brass case ammo will be easiest on the gun and have fewer malfunctions. There are exceptions.I have no idea what I need. Can you all help me understand?
Does it even matter?
For most people, probably not. Most don't shoot enough to show any difference, and a few malfunctions during practice aren't a bad thing. Helps you develop your malfunction clearance response time.Does it even matter?
What Charlie is talking about here is that you can only reload brass, not aluminum or steel case.Yes, it does.... it depends on if you want to reload.
It makes sense that it would, since steel is harder. Thing is, very few people will ever wear out a pistol, regardless of what type of ammo they use. The people who do wear out pistol barrels though pretty much universally use brass only, which means that there aren't going to be a lot of direct comparisons of how long a barrel will last using the two types of cases. It's common for a 9mm Glock barrel, for example, to go well beyond 75,000 rds shooting brass case ammo. I've never heard of a test using steel case, but even if it only lasted half as long, you'd save enough to buy a half a dozen new pistol barrels.Ok. Thanks. I also heard steel may wear a gun out slightly more, but probably no worry for me.
Ok. Thanks. I also heard steel may wear a gun out slightly more, but probably no worry for me.
True. I shot a box of the stuff...(headstamp 1943) that my Dad had in his old footlocker. Every round fired and ejected just fine...very light ammo or degraded a bit. It was a mild steel but no....I otherwise only feed steel cased ammo to my commie-block hardware as you're doing. Aluminum (usually Blazer) has always worked very, very well in my SA 1911. I would especially avoid steel cased 5.56/.223 in a Ruger Mini 14 or Keltec. Maybe I'm just over-cautious.Our range allows steel and aluminum cased ammo, I just will not fire steel cased ammo in anything but my SKS carbines. I have read the U.S. Army used steel cased ammo in the 1911 pistols during WWII but I'm not comfortable with shooting it in mine.
Are there really people who take the time to put a drop of oil on every steel case? If that's what's needed it's worth the $.015 extra to not mess with it, IMO.Steel cases won't cause any problems associated with wear if a drop of oil is put on the cases. This will break the friction between case and chamber and promote easy extraction, which will increase the life of any extractor.
I have no idea what I need. Can you all help me understand?
Are there really people who take the time to put a drop of oil on every steel case? If that's what's needed it's worth the $.015 extra to not mess with it, IMO.
The slide on a 1911 moves and excessive oil will be shaken off and get on my shooting glasses.
Does it even matter?
Old saying, a 1911 has just barely enough lube when it quits throwing oil in your face.
If you're genuinely asking, probably not. Most people's usage will not harm their firearms.
It takes about five to six thousand rounds of steel cased 223 shot rapid fire to chunk a barrel in an AR. Even with that, it's not the case that mattered, it was the bi-metal (steel) jacket.
Broadbrushing here, but steel ammo is typically not as accurate as **most** US-made brass cased ammo. Steel cased ammo uses some of the cheapest, dirtiest propellants and may get laquer or polymer in the chamber if you get the firearm hot enough. If you shoot some brass afterward, it will adhere to the brass case and pull it out though.
Steel vs aluminum vs brass can be a divisive issue. I've purchased and shot them all. For most people's 50 - 250 round plinking/blasting range session, it doesn't make much difference.