380 ACP

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Jackiesman

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Normally I get help from these members when I have challenging difficulties in reloading, I hope that’s the case this time.
I have been reloading for my wife’s for years. I recently obtained some Remington 88 grain HP’s that I wanted to load for her Glock 42 for plinking. Started at the low end of the ladder (2.9 grains of SR 7625) and while I find accuracy excellent the rounds won’t eject the spent cartridge. Each round has to be manually ejected for the next round. Went up the ladder several times using different loads. These last ones I have at 3.3 graiins of SR 7625 (the only one I’ve tried) per the Speer manual ( they’re accurate, but hot loads) and still won’t cycle the glock. Re-cleaned he gun with the same results. Trimmed the brass to the recommend size, and also tried using max length cartridges. Still won’t eject. I should say that I’m a little biit restricted in my choice of powders it’s about the ONLY thing I haven’t tried.
So if anyone knows a secret t making the 88 grain week in the Glock please share it. They were a fairly cheap buy but if I can’t make them work I would be glad to sell them to anyone who has a gun in which they’ll work.
 
Have you tried some factory target loads like 95gr rn, to see if they cycle?
If they do AND you had a chronograph to check velocity with, I'd say go just a little hotter and see if they cycle.
Other wise I would probably try something slower like Hs-6 or Autocomp. If that didn't help I'd creep up the other way, maybe N320, and see if there was any difference.
 
What you describe is weak powder charge. I don't know where your at during the load range. If not at max keep increasing in. Do a ladder test stepping up in 0.1gr steps. Small case rounds do better with fast burn powders. The burst impulse operates the simi autos better. Also take a look at your OAL. If your running under what the load data used you can shorten the OAL or bump your charge to compensate.

380acp is one round I no longer load. I just do not like dealing with such a small case. May be different know if I load on my AP so I don't have to handle them.
 
SR7625 is on par with Universal and Unique. The problem you’re describing is what happens when a powder is too slow burning for the action of a firearm. I’ve used Unique and No.5 in .380 and was not happy with them because they both need to run at too high pressure in a short fixed barrel action. I think what your problem is you’re using fixed barrel, weak action loads in a strong locking action pistol. I suggest switching to a faster powder like No.2 or TiteGroup and work on the higher end of seating depth for your wife’s gun. A longer length can help reduce pressure spikes sometimes.
 
I'm tickled pink with Bullseye in 380acp and any bullet less than 100gr.

I tried hot rodding the 380 with Unique once, but started getting pierced primers in 2 different chassis at around the middle of my ladder....

All of a sudden had light/no strikes with the 238, and found the punched out coin of primer in the firing pin channel. Bad juju I say... so I went back to Bullseye. decent velocity, cycles perfect, and excellent accuracy.
 
Lots of things to try to answer, but I’ll try.

hugger 4641: it works very well with factory 95 to 115 grain loads. It doesn’t like Berry hollow base 100 loads or the 88 gr REM. My other hand loads work well. And as a single shot the 88’s are outstanding.

blue68f100: my Speer manual lists 3.2 to 3.4, which puts me at the top of the ladder. A couple other manuals list @2.9 to 3.2 so I have gone about as far as I dare to with that.

GeoDudeFla: I has a small amount of W231 (it’s a little faster than the 7625) with the same results but lost some accuracy. Haven’t run it across the Crony because I was just loading for plinking/practice, and according to my manual I am at the max.

To make it more complicated a buddy brought his Walther P380 over, and it handles the 88 grain just fine with a 1.25 group ( 3 times). So I am thinking like buck460XVR that it is probably a spring thing. I will try to use a little faster powder after I introduce the last 20 to the hammer.

any other knowledge will be appreciated. Thanks to all.
 
If nothing works my buddy will inherit a few hundred 88 grains Remingtons. Or should I use this as an excuse to buy another gun. LOL
 
I have a Ruger LCP.

my 1st pistol reload was .380 ACP. I used Zip (don’t laugh, it was the only pistol powder available at the time).

I started at the low end. It wouldn’t eject. Then I started going up in .1 grain increments. The it ejected and fed, but would lock back on an empty magazine. Another climb, then I got full function.

It’s the worst caliber to start on, I now know.

I have 100s of hollow points to load for this caliber but continue to carry factory.

But on my priority list, this is at the very bottom, for a variety of reasons.
 
Jackiesman said:
Or should I use this as an excuse to buy another gun. LOL
Click to expand...
If you have to ask, you already know the answer. ;)
One of my wife’s favorites is also the Walthers PK380. It’s one of the least pickiest small pistols I’ve ever loaded for. Now, my H&K Mdl 4 on the other hand…
 
These days sometimes you have to dance with the girl that is available LOL. It sounds to me like a faster propellant or a lighter recoil spring will do it for you when using those light bullets. I own 4 380's and have not experienced what you have either. None are a glock however.
 
OP, as noted by some, the G42 requires a bit more energy to work compared to other 380s. I had to work up my normal light/medium load a bit to get it to reliably work the G42. Some time ago, a few of us had a thread going on loading 380 for the G42. I stuck to 95 and 100 grain bullets, so I can't help much with the 88s. Another thing to check may be the COAL.
Here is the 4th installment in the loading for the G42. Look for the other 3 parts. There is some good info on there by Art of Golf and others.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/handloading-for-the-glock-42-part-iv.763394/https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/handloading-for-the-glock-42-part-iv.763394/
 
rfwobbly said:
As with any auto pistol.... Find an accurate load, then start swapping recoil springs until that same load will throw the case at least 3 feet.
Case ejection distance is one of the keys to "reading" loads.
Click to expand...
If I understands correctly you swap springs. But where do you obtain the different springs. To my knowledge when you order a spring from the factory you get the direct replacement. In previous threads members have spoken about cutting coils off the springs. And there seems to be some resistance to that type of modification. I need a better understanding of your recommendation before I begin that type of modification process. Can anyone else comment on this method?
 
Jackiesman said:
If I understands correctly you swap springs. But where do you obtain the different springs. To my knowledge when you order a spring from the factory you get the direct replacement. In previous threads members have spoken about cutting coils off the springs. And there seems to be some resistance to that type of modification. I need a better understanding of your recommendation before I begin that type of modification process. Can anyone else comment on this method?
Click to expand...


Really no reduced power recoil springs for your Glock like other guns. It is a rod and spring combo
No don't start cutting things, Get some different powder and bullets and move on.

Do you only have the one powder?? SR7625??
 
Jackiesman said:
If I understands correctly you swap springs. But where do you obtain the different springs. To my knowledge when you order a spring from the factory you get the direct replacement. In previous threads members have spoken about cutting coils off the springs. And there seems to be some resistance to that type of modification. I need a better understanding of your recommendation before I begin that type of modification process. Can anyone else comment on this method?
Click to expand...
You need more recoil impulse than your powder + projectile combination can generate. In order to overcome inertia, change powders and projectiles until you get enough force to get the slide moving from rest. Then you can fine-tune for a 3' ejection arc. Not all combinations of bullet, brass, primer and powder are going to work in every firearm.
 
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