Which sharpener?

Status
Not open for further replies.

WestKentucky

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2014
Messages
13,114
Location
Western Kentucky
I am fed up with garbage, and I'm ready to step up from the 2.99 special handheld v shaped ceramic things. I'm trying to decide between a few sharpener systems, all from DMT or Lanksy. I'm open to other suggestions, but I want a guided system to help ensure a consistent and truly sharp blade. Primary use will be on pocket knives and hunting knives, secondary for kitchen knives. I'm open to other suggestions, and open to direction within these systems as there are options that I wasn't really expecting.

https://www.smkw.com/lansky-deluxe-sharpening-system

https://www.smkw.com/dmt-the-aligner-pro-kit
 
My family bought me a Worksharp abrasive belt sharpener.
I think it is great.
I sharpen every kitchen knife, fillet, hunting, and scissors at least twice per year.
I even take it to my parents and in-laws and sharpen theirs too.
I recommend it.
I cant think of a reason that you wouldnt like it.
 
I've owned a similar Lansky set for decades, and while it works well, it is time consuming to set up and a little complex to use. Now I prefer to use the Lansky 4-rod turnbox. Does a great job easily and quickly. Regardless of which system I use, sharpening is always improved even more by finishing with a good stropping process, a step often overlooked. :cool:
 
My kitchen knives need to be heated in order to cut butter.
I need a serrated blade sharpener!
Bear in mind I'm living on Social Security so my budget is only about $25. Those $50 jobs are out of my ball park.
 
My family bought me a Worksharp abrasive belt sharpener.
I think it is great.
I sharpen every kitchen knife, fillet, hunting, and scissors at least twice per year.
I even take it to my parents and in-laws and sharpen theirs too.
I recommend it.
I cant think of a reason that you wouldnt like it.

I have a WorkSharp system too. Its easy, fast and puts on a shaving sharp edge in minutes. There is nothing I own that it wont sharpen.
 
I am fed up with garbage, and I'm ready to step up from the 2.99 special handheld v shaped ceramic things. I'm trying to decide between a few sharpener systems, all from DMT or Lanksy. I'm open to other suggestions, but I want a guided system to help ensure a consistent and truly sharp blade. Primary use will be on pocket knives and hunting knives, secondary for kitchen knives. I'm open to other suggestions, and open to direction within these systems as there are options that I wasn't really expecting.

I actually had great results using the little Lansky crock sticks on my folders during my last deployment. The rest of the time, I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker.

John
 
Primary use will be on pocket knives and hunting knives, secondary for kitchen knives. I'm open to other suggestions, and open to direction within these systems as there are options that I wasn't really expecting.
What blade steels do the knives you own currently have? Are you planning to get knives with some of the newer super high carbon alloys? That's going to determine whether you need diamonds or you can stick with ceramic.
 
I second that Gatco diamond system, along with a good strop. I also own a mess of bench stones because some knives are just too big and clumsy for the clamp... and because Dad and my godfather wanted me to have certain life skills.
 
I wanted to minimize cost so I bought the Lansky Standard 3-stone Sharpening System, and I like it a LOT. Not because it's inexpensive but because of the nice job it does, even with just three stones. When done sharpening, the finished edges look clean and uniform and the blades perform very nicely.
 
I put it to the wife. I sent her about a half dozen options similar to the lansky set. She had instruction to read reviews and pick one. I have a lansky 5 stone set on the way, I think it’s a basic ceramic set but that’s fine since most of my blades are not high dollar hardened steels.
 
I'm a fan of the Spyderco. I like that i can use it for a lot of different things, and it seems to work pretty well for me.
 
Careful with the Work Sharp. It is easy to damage the tip of knives if you don't take care with them.

That is exactly why mine is relegated to kitchen knives and I've got a Spyderco that I need to repair on my diamond stones.

I pretty much do all my sharpening using this:

https://www.amazon.com/DMT-ABG-Aligner-Blade-Guide/dp/B00004WFUR

And this:

https://www.amazon.com/Smiths-DBSF-Diamond-Bench-Stone/dp/B00009YV6G

Diamond has worked for every knife steel I have owned including tough numbers like CPM-D2, S30V/S35VN, ZDP-189, can't think of a reason to use any other type of stone.

I use the method in "The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening", sometimes I cut the relief with a coarse diamond stone, but the fine usually works well enough if there is not a lot of metal to move. I always finish the edge with a few runs over a leather strop block that I made.

IMG_20180513_203523746~01.jpg
 
Last edited:
I've had a Spyderco Tri-Angle sharpener for years and its very easy to use. I find that I get a better edge with DMT diamond "stones", though, so except for my serrated knives, I use DMT for most of my sharpening these days.
 
How do you keep from rounding off the tips with crock sticks?
I see people who apparently think that it is important to move the knife quickly and violently while sharpening. I've seen a few who almost slash at the sharpening device with the knife. This isn't necessary or desirable. Also, it's not desirable to apply hard pressure on the knife because that makes it hard to control.

Even with conventional flat stones--when the tip slips off the edge of the sharpening surface it will cause some level of damage. But you are correct, a stick type sharpener is even more likely to cause this issue because it requires more care to keep the tip from going off onto the rounded sides of the stick which is what causes the tip profile to be damaged.

With proper pressure and a controlled sharpening stroke, the knife can be controlled so that the tip doesn't stray far onto the rounded sides and stays on the top "line" of the stick.

Try a demo with a pencil or pen and a business card. Hold the pencil horizontally so that it's parallel to the floor. Now the "top" of the pencil's cylinder forms a line that is also horizontal and parallel to the floor. Pretend the business card is the blade and push it across the "top" of the pencil as you would when sharpening a knife. With a controlled stroke and reasonable pressure, it's easy to stop the stroke with the corner of the business card/tip of the blade still on the "top" of the pencil and without running it off the side of the pencil. Obviously this exercise is a lot easier the "fatter" the pencil is.

The same principles apply to a crock stick. The sharpening surface on a crock stick should be viewed as a straight line down the stick. The knife blade, during the sharpening stroke, should trace down that straight line and shouldn't slide significantly off to the side at the end of the stroke when the tip is being sharpened.

By the way, I'm not saying that the stick has to be horizontal, I was just trying to describe things so it was easy to understand.

There are three takeaways:

1. Controlled strokes are important, especially for crock sticks, but also with any sharpener.
2. Don't press so hard that control becomes difficult.
3. A fatter crock stick is easier to use, just as a larger bench stone is easier to use.
 
How do you keep from rounding off the tips with crock sticks?

I can't speak to the crock sticks aspect of you question. But typically, rounding off the tip of a knife while sharpening, is caused by unconsciously (or consciously) trying to make the tip the sharpest place on the edge. For most knives, the tip can actually be honed a little less acutely than the rest of the edge and it will still be sharper because the metal is thinner at the tip - this is especially true for clip points. Also, raising the sharpening angle a touch at the tip results in a much better looking secondary bevel.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top