Reloading bench question

Agree with not using OSB. Squishy and fugly.

pgohil said:

I was thinking about having a quarter inch raised lip all around the edge to help keep small things from sliding off. Is this necessary?

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Definitely a good idea, but no it's not "necessary"

I like a lip around the sides and back, but not along the front edge.

Guys get a bit overzealous about how sturdy is sturdy enough for reloading. I loaded tens of thousands of rounds on a benchtop of 3/4” MDF without failure at my old apartment, and still use the same set up occasionally. Still going strong.

Varminterror said:

I like a lip around the sides and back, but not along the front edge.

Guys get a bit overzealous about how sturdy is sturdy enough for reloading. I loaded tens of thousands of rounds on a benchtop of 3/4” MDF without failure at my old apartment, and still use the same set up occasionally. Still going strong.

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Agree on the lip and sturdy/stiffness.
Im using an old navy secretaries desk as my reloading bench type writer cutout covered by pieces of old target shelving. My press mounts to a 2x4 to give it enough height for the 3" lag bolts to not punch thru into the top drawer. It flexes pretty good when I lean into it, or stick a case, but hasnt failed in 8 years of service.
My portaloader is a 3/4" soft pine board that gets c clamped to stuff, including plastic folders and the tailgate of my truck. It actually gets used the most because i can take it in the house and clamp it to the kitchen table.
My buddies whole reloading bench is made from 3/4" ply board, and works fine.

If you WANT a heavier stiffer bench, than theres no reason not to do it, unless you move every few years like I seem to (taking doors off to get that big desk into and out of rooms sucks). I just dont think its as necessary as its gets made out to be.

I found a sheet of 1/4" aluminum and cut it to fit the top of my bench. It works for me.

Guys get a bit overzealous about how sturdy is sturdy enough for reloading.

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Yeah, a good bench isn’t absolutely necessary, I started loading on my Fathers work bench with a press lag bolted to a 4x4 in his benchvise, quite sturdy.

I also loaded on an old particle board cheap bench for more than a decade, using a cordless drill and drywall screws to move presses around in order to use them. As it fell apart I just kept adding supports, scabs and such to keep it going. It was swayback like an old horse by the time I was done with it, even the steel supports under the top bent but it did get me by.



When I finally got around to building one just for the reloading room, I made sure it would last for the rest of my life though and much more ridged.



Being ridged does help case and bullet feeders run more consistently.

Having just gone through what you're about too, I highly recommend checking out Inline Fabrication for their quick mounts. They come in three different heights and allow you to use one permanently mounted stand that lets you change presses in 30-seconds (hence the "quick change" name). These are especially efficient if you're limited on bench space and you're still able to use different presses for different jobs.
I loved my first bench which I made out of two separate assemblies; The stand (legs) is all 2x4 frame built hell-for-stout using screws for all the connections (nails loosen up). The second assembly is the table top, again framed using 2x4s and topped with a layer of 3/4" plywood, then that's topped with a layer of 1/2" plywood and a clean top of 1/4" masonite (brown). The plywood layers are screwed down to the table assembly frame members to keep them stiff. The masonite is glued down. I chose brown so the carbon, soot, gun powder, grease, etc. doesn't make the table top look like crap after a few years of heavy use. Now some of you will be asking why all the lumber? Well, it wasn't for load capacity, it was to make it heavy enough not to jump off the floor when I pulled the press handle back up on a sticky cartridge. I wasn't able to anchor the bench to a wall or floor, so dead weight is my only resistance. A heavy bench laden with a good inventory of bullets on the integral shelf gives it the needed heft to stay put.
My second bench is a little larger than the first one, which now has two Dillon 550s permanently mounted on it (no room for much else on that bench now). Bench #2's table top has the plywood triple layered so I could build it with slip-in inserts for removing one mount and exchange it for another, or just make a clean table top for gun cleaning. That said, if I'd had the In-line Fabrication quick mounts already, I might not have bothered with the removable inserts. They're still handy, but they made the table top assembly a little more complex. You'll note that I finished Bench #2 with a heavy coating of poly, which makes cleanup a breeze and it protects the wood from oil, grease, carbon, etc. stains that would make it look like crap after awhile.

Both benches are 35-1/2" high to the table top, so it's a stand-up work setup. Bench #1 is 29" deep (the one with the Dillons on it) while Bench #2 is 31" deep (I like the extra space) and the removable inserts let me clear the bench and make a completely clean work surface if I want or need to. I've attached a couple of pics for you. Each press mounted on Bench #2 can be easily swapped out using the quick-mounts or the table top completely cleared by pulling the table inserts and replacing them with the two smooth top inserts I have stuffed under the ammo shelf below the bench. You'll note a lot of lights (definitely want good lighting), all LEDs, and lot's of wall-mounted shelving above the bench (for my brass, dies, etc.). The shelf below the bench is for lead (bullets) or finished ammo. Both make great ballast to keep the bench plenty rigid.

This room used to be just my office and library...now it's a real man-cave. Forget the big-screen, give me room to load ammo and store my best toys (guns)...the closet has the gun-safe in it as well as all my cleaning gear and gun powder. The benches only have bullets, and loaded ammo under them (on the shelf and the floor). The shelves on the wall is all empty brass, although there are some larger containers for my main-use calibers on the floor. The wall wouldn't hold up under that load...

You can probably guess from these benches that I'm no cabinet maker, but I am an Engineer with just a hint of OCD regarding load capacity...these benches don't budge when I'm horsing the press handle either direction, but they'll still come apart in two or three assemblies that allow me to break them down and get them out the door of the room (not that I ever plan to, but it also worked for getting them into the room).

Here are some pics;
Bench #1


Bench #2

Hopefully I'm not intruding here but I collected about $120 in material and set out to build one that was "modular" and almost nice enough to be furniture. I used all 1x material, both pine and poplar, had the fasteners and tools. The top is 2 layers of dense MDF and one sacrificial 1/2" top. I sketched for a basic idea of how I wanted it and deviated slightly when it came to assembly. I'll post measurements later but I'll let the photos show the adjustable feet, top fastening, and joinery with glue and pocket screws. Stain and poly finish to come after some edges are finished with a trim router. I completed this with the very basic of power/cordless tools in less than 12 hours at a lazy pace in the July heat.

If you want an OSB like material get the Advantech underlayment and double layer that. It’s really flat to begin with and doesn’t flex like plywood does. I built mine before that came out and used a double layer of 3/4” AC plywood glued and screwed with 3 coats of poly.
If you want to use wood and want to buy it ready made you can use wood countertop material, or get a Harbor Freight bench all-ready made with a super coupon. Good luck!

The MDF will break down due to flexing and fail over time. Not the best choice to mount a press on. If you use a Online Fabrication stands it should be fine since it will spread out the load. 2 sheets of Plywood would have been a better choice, covered with masonite for easy cleaning, and replacement if needed.

748 said:

If you are going to put a press on it 3/4 inch ply wood will bend like paper when you try to full length size anything that is a rifle case.
Use 2x6 and 2 layers of ply wood.

I used rough cut oak 2x8 such as would be used on a wood tractor trailer flat bed on top of 2x6 finished building lumber screwed to the wall in the corner with lag bolts at each stud then wedge anchored the free corner to the floor. The press doesn't move the table.

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Now I have a 1/2 inch thick 304 stainless plate that weighs 300lb I might put on my reloading bench.

Blue68f100 said:

The MDF will break down due to flexing and fail over time. Not the best choice to mount a press on.

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My workbench in the garage is 2 layers of 3/4" MDF, over the past 18 years, mostly using the bench mounted press for sizing duty. I've already had to mount another piece of hardwood under it to support the press mount bolts, and you can watch the bench flex every time you size a .30-06, for example. I figure one of these days it will break and I'll have a RockChucker in my lap... and then I'll rebuild it right.

The stronger the better. I am not being snarky or insulting or anything else one might think of, but----

One question for the OP. You stated you are brand new to reloading. Are you absolutely 100% sure that you are going to enjoy reloading? If not 100%, I would suggest you use a Black and Decker work bench and start off on that. You may be going through a carpentry exercise for naught.

Negative on the 1/4" lip except for the rear/ back. To much sliding of components, etc. onto/off the work surface. Ensure a level surface.

I covered the surface with adhesive, 18" off- white, mildly textured, floor tile. Super durable, non-absorbent, hi-vis...excellent!

GW Staar said:

It you build a frame with a triple 2x4 or 2X6 torsion beam under it...... a single 3/4" plywood top won't bend period. I furnished the following plans THR a couple of years ago that you can download if you are interested....not only is it strong as steel it is cheaper than just about any other method.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?resources/inexpensive-no-flex-bench-how-to.6/

As my bench picture in that thread shows it has a wood edge added in front of the beam and top......you could prevent rolling bullets, primers or anything else you spill from rolling off if you raise that edge 1/8". 1/4" is more than I'd personally like.

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I want to echo this.

I built a bench using your plans from Arfcom a few years back and topped it with a 3/4" sheet of maple. I permanently mounted a vise in the corner and c-clamp a press to it. The entire thing is solid as a rock even when I have something heavy clamped in the vise and torquing it down.

I can't recommend building one of these enough. I'm going to be building a second in my office for a dedicated reloading area. The only thing I need to change on it is to build in some storage but otherwise it's been outstanding.

Pgohil. Somebody already mentioned it above but before you go to deep into it.....It's been my experience there are three types of people that try reloading.

Type 1: Tries it and shortly thereafter quits. Not for them. These folks supply the rest of us with a lot of low cost lightly used equipment on the internet and at garage sales.
Type 2: Tries it. Likes it and it becomes a hobby.
Type 3: Tries it and it consumes their life.

Note: I'm somewhere between 2 and 3. As such you can't have too much bench surface.

Before you build something that takes a lot of effort find out which one you are. If possible, maybe run a few hundred rounds on a friends set-up.

I went the route some have mentioned previously in this thread: 2X4 frame lag bolted into walls. 2X10 planks screwed into frame with all joints metal braced/reinforced. 1/2 inch red oak veneer plywood surface. EVERYTHING screwed in/no nails.





I didn't hard mount all presses because the reloading bench does double duty as a surface for other hobbies.



This bench JUST meets 'my' needs. I supplement it with a large butcher block table in the middle of the reloading room and a larger rolling tool cabinet from home depot with 1 inch thick butcher block cabinet top.

I like to place a 12x12 piece of 1/4" steel to distribute the stress better, using 2 layers of plywood glued and screwed works for me

pgohil said:

Reloading bench question ... brand new reloader. Zero experience. Getting plans together to build my first reloading bench.

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Welcome to the world of reloading that is a hobby for many of us and a passion for some of us. It's good that you are asking questions so as to not reinvent the wheel and build on success of other members.

pgohil said:

I have some extra four by fours I will be using for the two front legs and it will be lag bolted to the wall. There will be braces underneath that will take all flex out of it for sure.

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I started out with 6' and 8' heavy duty benches in the garage using 4x4 legs and industrial grade metal casters strong enough to handle working on engine blocks. Even though benches were on casters and rolled easily on concrete, due to sheer size and weight of the benches, reloading press mounted did not move the bench.

Size of the reloading bench and whether to go with stationery anchored vs portable castered bench depends on your reloading need. I built several reloading benches for me and friends over the decades with many being portable.

Why build a small portable bench?

It's summer time and if your massive bench is in the garage without climate control, you could be sweating like a pig in 100F+ heat or freezing your fingers off in the winter wondering why your digital scale won't operate properly (Most digital/electronic devices have room temperature operating range of 59F to 95F and will act weird outside of the manufacturer specified "normal" operating temperature range and many members will use the digital scales inside the house).

So instead of being miserable in the heat/humidity/cold, portable bench allows you to reload in comforts of air conditioning/heating and better interact with significant other/family. My wife for years thought I was crazy to be reloading in the summer heat sweating like a pig but I needed my match loads for USPSA matches but after brain fried in the heat, I became a cranky bastard not comfortable to be around. Reloading in the house solved that problem.

Remember, a man's house is his castle, right?

And starting with a small 2'x3' castered bench will not only be easier to build, but give you another reloading option as you can certainly build an anchored massive bench in the garage for later when weather is more "comfortable"

Here are some benefits of portable bench from another thread - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...stand-suggestions.839458/page-2#post-10887626

PDF of bench plan and parts list - http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=210769&stc=1&d=1432610198

• 2 feet width and short 3 feet length allows the bench to roll through any doorway and turn in from even narrow hallway
• Small size bench allows for storage when not in use (I used to store my bench in a walk-in closet at the previous house)
• Furniture dolly casters from Harbor Freight allows the bench to roll easily on any surface without marring
• Mounting presses at ends of bench allows resizing even thicker walled military .308 cases without moving the bench, even when empty
• As others already mentioned, solid non-flex top is crucial and I used 11 layer birch plywood from Home Depot with 2 coats of Polyurethane and bench top does not flex even when resizing military .308 cases
• Benefits of small portable castered bench are many some of which are allowing you to reload in the comforts of AC/Heat, roll bench anywhere to be with family (livingroom to watch TV while resizing or out in the patio while sipping iced tea with wife), etc.

Here's the 2'x3' portable bench with furniture dolly casters from Harbor Freight (I just bought the moving dolly and took the casters off - cheaper than buying individual casters). I added a small pegboard "wing" to the left of bench to store long rifle cleaning rods but that's optional. I initially mounted my C-H 205 single stage press and Lee Pro 1000 but since replaced the Pro 1000 with Lee Auto Breech Lock Pro. I am thinking about building another 2 level portable bench to mount Dillon 550 and 650 to use in my retirement reloading room.



Even this small 2'x3' portable bench allows storage of dies, turrets and other equipment/tools for caliber change and brass prep. Shelves under the bench allows storage of powders and bullets to consolidate reloading in one place to roll around. In addition to Lee powder measure, I also use C-H/Redding micrometer powder measures - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/c-h-502-micrometer-powder-measure-10-drops.834894/



C-H 205 single stage will resize even thicker walled military .308 brass without moving the bench on hardwood floor, even when empty. While many members will endorse bolting/anchoring the bench to the wall to keep it steady/tipping forward, understanding the mechanical leverage/force required to resize even thicker walled military .308 brass will help you build a better bench, portable or stationery.

Notice the portable bench is built with 2x4 kiln dried dimensional lumber stiffened with 11 layer plywood and reinforced with 2x4 under the bench where presses are mounted all fastened with 10d nail and 3" screws. This construction method results in a very stiff box frame that DOES NOT FLEX the bench top for consistent OAL. With match grade bullets like RMR FMJ RN/FP, I get 0.001" OAL variance using mixed range brass which demonstrates rigidity of bench construction - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...progressive-press.833604/page-2#post-10779806



Since this picture was taken, Pro 1000 was replaced with Auto Breech Lock Pro for all of my THR load development/myth busting thread test loads, which BTW is my current favored press to use (Even over Dillon 550/650) due to ease of/fast caliber change and would highly recommend the ABLP for someone new to reloading who mostly load pistol calibers and short rifle cartridges like .223.

pgohil said:

Right now my plan is 3/4 OSB ... I will add another layer, as the expense is not that much.

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I found OSB could absorb moisture over time and could increase flex. If you are planning to spend the money for double layer of 3/4" OSB, I would highly recommend you use single lay of 11 layer plywood with coating of polyurethane.

Key is use of proper bracing and use of kiln dried or seasoned 2x4s. Wet/green 2x4s are soft and will flex to an extent. Using kiln dried or seasoned 2x4s which are hard won't flex. I have 2x4 under the 11 layer plywood bench for bracing under the ABLP that is fastened with 10d nails and wood screws and provides "zero" flex top for more consistent resizing of brass and finished OAL.

pgohil said:

how silky smooth should the main surface be? ... I thought about adding a thin piece of white board on top that would be extremely slick and make everything very easy to see but don't know if that would be a help or not

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My bench top with 2 coats of polyurethane (previously used as pool table cover) is approaching 20 years and has worked very well without moisture issues and smooth surface is easy to clean.

If you already have OSB or dead set on using OSB for bench top, I recommend bracing under the bench top with 2x4/2x6 and covering the rough OSB with thick vinyl. I have even smaller 2'x2' bench I originally built for pistol case processing/reloading where OSB bench top was covered with thick vinyl material bought from fabric department of Walmart. Sheet vinyl was tightly folded against the bench and stapled with staple gun.



I got these boot trays from the dollar store and cut around the press bases to catch powder granuels, primers, etc. but the vinyl top is easy enough to clean and currently use without the plastic trays.

I used to just scavenge a desk or table from the side of the road or a garage sale for reloading, but I got tired of breaking them and having to replace or repair them. 4 years ago I built a dedicated reloading bench. The front legs and front crossbrace are 4x4 pine and the decking is 3/4 Ply in 2 layers. The way I built it was a bit odd though and you will understand why if you think about screws backing out and pulling out. I put the first layer on and screwed it down with 3” deck screws going down into the stringers which are essentially 2x4s ran like floor joists from the 4x4 Front to the rear 2x4 crossbrace. This firmly attached the first layer to the framework, and then I used an entire tube of construction adhesive on an 18x48 bench To glue the 2 pieces of ply together, and I used about 60 drywall screws just to secure the top plywood down to the bottom piece which was already mounted. Everything is nice and tight with no movement, and I believe the main reason for that is that I intentionally put varying angles of pitch onto the screws as I screwed on the first layer of plywood. It’s hard to pull a screw out with any angular force, but relatively easy to get a straight pull on one and snatch it out, so with the varying angles it would take a whole lot of force to ever pull that top off of the framework. That bench is secured to the wall by another 2x4 that spans 6 wall studs and is screwed into each of those with deck screws, and then the bench is screwed to that with another 6 deck screws, again all at varying angles. I have plenty faith in my bench, and I have had some badly stuck cases and ripped case heads without ever flexing my bench let alone breaking it. Once your bench is built, make sure to use large washers and through-bolt all of the fasteners that’s attach the press to the bench. I like carriage bolts coming from bottom up so that the nice rounded edge is under the surface and leaves nothing for me to catch my legs on (had made that mistake before) and nylock nuts and heavy standard sized washers on top. Yes it’s a lot of work and a little more money than a basic shop bench, but it will survive the pressures and the torque that a reloading bench can take when you stick a case. It takes a lot to rip a case head off, but sometimes that’s what it takes to get the ram out of the way to clear that stuck brass.

¾” plywood top with 2x6 on end for front apron, 2x4’s 16” O.C. running front to back, also on end toenailed to ledger…front is screwed to 2x6. Top is unfinished with no protection, I have a lip around the edge as you mentioned for the same reason…keeps brass, bullets and primers on the bench and not floor, although they wind up there anyway. No need to go thicker than one sheet of ¾…total waste of money.

I have two 48 inch wide benches that are built on Craftsman workbenches the ones with drawers. I replaced the tops with two pieces of 3/4 good one side plywood glued together. One bench has my single stage press and my Hornady shotshell loader, the other has my LNL progressive. And space for case timing etc. The bench with the shotshell loader does have a partial lip on the front, side and back to keep spilled shot off the floor.

the way i built mine a single sheet of 3/4 birch works fine.

If you use the Inline Fabrication press mount so your presses mount on TOP and NOT on the edge means you do not need a top stiff enough to place a safe on.

your plan is similar to what I did in function, but different in design. I built a square from of 2X4, with 4X4 legs. The frame has 2X4" braces ran every 12 inches or so, about set below the box frame, and a 3/4 plywood (NOT OSB) surface laid onto the braces, flush with the exterior frame. The wood surface was coated in poly, and the gap between the table surface, and 2X4 frames makes an effective channel to stop spill, and things rolling off. The 2X4 have wood screw inserts on the 2X4 on the outer edge, and the inner press mounts have holes drilled through the bracing under the surface, with washers and nuts.
So far this has held up to around 4K rifle reloads on a lee 4 hole, and 4K on a loadmaster, mostly 223, and 9mm, which require a lot of stress.
I emphasize you avoid OSB becasue is breaks down with use, and is very weak in terms of hold down force, barely better than particle board. Its just not designed for that.
Plywood is far better, but its still not enough, thats why mine has all mounts in wood inserts, or bolted through.
Loading 9mm on the loadmaster puts a huge amount of strain on it, and even as overbuilt as it is, it still flexes.
https://www.google.com/search?q=woo...w=800&client=firefox-b-1#imgrc=WjGTLsLndT1_xM
If I was doing it over again, or adding a new press, I would probably get a peice of 3/16-1/4 steel plate, and mount the press to it, and bolt the steel through 2X4 framing. When I eventually rip out the inserts I will go that way. For progressives, its very important vibration is minimized, if you go that route.