Hi-standard cylinder damage

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Renton83

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I got a Hi-Standard double nine .22 revolver years ago in decent shape but the previous owner must have dry fired it hundreds of times :mad: The cylinder is supposed to be counterbored to prevent this but it's bad enough to make ejection difficult. I used a metal shaft the same size as the casings and pushed it through the holes to try and fix it with some success, but it still sticks. Would using a small file to remove some of the burr be ok or could it cause misfires if I remove too much? Does anyone know a web site that would have instructions on how to dismantle this gun and remove the cylinder? Thanks for any help you have, this forum has helped allot before.

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Yipes...


I'd always undersood one should not Dry Fire Rim Fire Revolvers...

The counterbores I believe were to mitigate damage from possible Cartridge Head failures, and not for ensuring Dry Fires could be done with impunity.



Far as I know, one may Dry Fire a Rim Fire Revolver, using spent Shells in the Cylinder to absorb the Firing Pin's impact...and be alright that way...but even then, one would not want to over do it without rotating the spent shells to offer new places for the Firing Pin to hit...



That 'Ironing Tool' definitely looks like the best way to go.
 
The ironic thing is the owner who did it was a firearms inspector, guess he liked playing cowboy. To remove the cylinder would I have to drive out the drift pins holding the frame together? I don't have much experience with revolvers, I find them rather finicky.
 
NO NO NO NO!!!!

On the front of the frame is a large hole with spring loaded plunger pin in it.

Just push it in with a punch or something and pull the crane & cylinder out of the frame.

If you remove the frame pins you will have a enormous mess on your hands trying to put it all back together.


I'd use the chamber ironing tool gb6491 linked to.
Or a tapered punch, or nail set punch.

Displace as much of the metal back where it came from as possible.
Then use a fine cut needle file to clean up whatever is left sticking into the chamber.
Follow that with a good polishing and it should work, maybe.

rc
 
Thank you very much rcmodel, you saved me a big headache. Oh and the handle part of the frame where it's is connected to the the rest of the gun by the trigger guard has always been a bit loose so when you shake the gun at the handle the rest of it wiggles side to side a bit. It seems the frame is something soft like alluminum so is it possible to tighten it up at all? It's at the pin in the front part of the trigger guard where the slop seems to be.
 
I don't know what to tell you.

I suppose if the frame were stripped, then it could be squeezed to tighten the fit to the guard assembly.

But, as I already mentioned, you don't even want to take it apart that far.

All the springs are held in by the same pins that hold the guard assembly to the frame.

You have to assemble it outside the gun using slave pins to hold everything in place.
Then drive them out with the real pins as you put it back to together.

It would be a real PITA if you don't know how to do it.

rc
 
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