How to thin out oil for firearms?

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peacebutready

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Greetings,

I have some old PL-M oil which is on the thick side. It may be 30 weight. I'd like to thin out some of it to see how that works on firearms. What is the best thing to mix with the oil? Mineral spirits? Hoppes #9? Something else?

I think PL-M is a thicker version of PL-S.

IIRC, a large part of Remoil is a solvent.
 
What is PL-M oil?

And what makes you think it is still any good after it is already turning into varnish?

Throw it away and buy some decent new oil!!!!

rc
 
Seems like an awful lot of trouble to avoid paying $3.50 for a bottle of Hoppes oil.
 
I have long been trying to use up a quart of PL-S a drop at a time with little success.

I have used it as a blend stock for various Internet Lubricants, mixing it with STP and Lucas to thicken, with Militec 1 because I could not find anything it was good for and read that it was originally a gear oil additive. It is still oil.

If you want to thin your PL-M, consider that automatic transmission fluid is a component of many homebrew lubricants, including Marine Red. And if the Marines use it, it must be good, right?
 
10w Hydraulic oil, 5w air tool oil. Idk why you would want to thin it. I use 75w-90 marine gear oil on my 1911 slide rails and other high wear areas. Works as good as anything and a quarts lasts a long time.
 
I have long been trying to use up a quart of PL-S a drop at a time with little success.

I have used it as a blend stock for various Internet Lubricants, mixing it with STP and Lucas to thicken, with Militec 1 because I could not find anything it was good for and read that it was originally a gear oil additive. It is still oil.

If you want to thin your PL-M, consider that automatic transmission fluid is a component of many homebrew lubricants, including Marine Red. And if the Marines use it, it must be good, right?

Thanks for your good post!

PL-M is a thicker version of PL-S, I think. Not certain, though. I'd like to experiment with it as well in the future. Maybe it will be at a gun show. I'm not paying $10 in shipping to buy a $6 quart.

Someone on some forum opined PL-S is a bit thin. Militec is supposed to be a really good lubricant but not too good for preventing rust. I didn't know it was originally a gear oil additive.

Auto trans fluid may not be the best for the skin.

I don't think PL-M and PL-S is simply 3 in 1 oil. It is "highly refined mineral oil". It also has preservative and corrosion inhibitors.
 
Update

And what makes you think it is still any good after it is already turning into varnish?

10w Hydraulic oil, 5w air tool oil. Idk why you would want to thin it. I use 75w-90 marine gear oil on my 1911 slide rails and other high wear areas. Works as good as anything and a quarts lasts a long time.


I racked the slide of the pistol I had this PL-M oil on. The slide felt like molasses. I took the pistol apart and the oil on the barrel dried out. The barrel was all sticky. I guess the oil went bad unless it's really more of a preservative than a lubricating oil.
 
I would say you're much better off grabbing a quart of synthetic motor, plain hydraulic, or gear oil off the shelf at wal-mart for $5.00 or even a regular CLP than you are playing chemist and re-purposing some mil spec product with unknown specifications by adding a solvent. I would advise against ATF or kerosene or any other harsh products laden with additives or solvents to regularly use on your firearms. That stuff is bad news to get on your skin all the time. (which will happen in a firearms application) Petroleum distillates and solvents can permeate your skin and enter the body in many cases. It is simply not good for your long term health. As shooting enthusiasts we expose ourselves to enough cleaning solvents, vapors, and lead exposure. Why voluntarily add to the risks? I dont see the point of carrying a firearm to defend our lives if we arent protecting ourselves from day to day hazards and health risks. As someone that has had to deal first hand with loved ones dying of cancer mostly due to environmental/occupational exposures it's something always on the back of my mind and I wouldnt wish it on anyone on this forum or in the shooting community. Please think about what you're playing around with on your shooting benches and what the risks are. Guns have been running for hundreds of years with plain lubricating oils that are much less harsh on our bodies to deal with than commercial/automotive fuels and solvents or home brewed concoctions. No gun's slide rails are worth your health.
 
@moojpg2: Thank for your generous response.

Maybe we should use latex gloves when using Hoppes #9
 
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We used PL-S on our M14s back in the '60s. Used Lubriplate on the bolt roller, and a drop of solvent on the gas piston, but PL-S everywhere else.
 
We used PL-S on our M14s back in the '60s. Used Lubriplate on the bolt roller, and a drop of solvent on the gas piston, but PL-S everywhere else.

I recently noticed below. It is interesting. Only CLP beat PL-S for reliability. CLP and Molybdenum beat PL-S for corrosion protection.
 

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