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I forgot they angle, was thinking Colt.

I was always "don't use a tap on damaged threads, use a thread chaser". The tap will cut away metal. If you can get a 6-.75 bolt or screw long enough to go from the chamber up and out. Then shape the end to a bit of a taper you will most likely push the metal back in shape.

If kept loaded over time, lubed wads will effect powder. There are cleaner when loading and shooting as range shooting.

thanks hawg. I couldn't find where I had that info.

Rem #10s are the same diameter as Rem #11s, only longer. I use #10s on most everything with a push on with a little dowel.

It is going to tear up any pocket you put it in !

My GU uses Euroarms nipples M6 x .75 x .500 Long Fits Euroarms Revolver The trigger/bolt screw is the same as the wedge screw, you can use the "mismatched" screw on the spring.

Mike, Do you have the Service Guarantee ?

Mine (in the box) is the Reb, brasser and very plane . Still very early.

And their '61 uses the '60 barrel bored to .36, too long by a 1/2" and too heavy.

I use 0 buckshot

Original Colts even had 2 different length cones, according to my1970s Dixie Gun Works catalog.

What I find on Belgian centennial centaur is that they used the same thread as original (1st gen.) Colt 1860s.

Check the length as well as the thread.

Listen to Mike !

I shoot both in my Uberti Cattleman, they are easy to clean not as many small springs and pieces as in a Ruger.

Uberti "short arbor", does not bottom in the barrel and allows the barrel to pull too close to the cylinder.

'62 Pocket police.

I cut pieces of plastic "soda straw" and slit them then put enough in side the spout to reduce the charge to what I need.

Most hardware stores have (hidden somewhere) a selection of K&S brass sheet, tube and solid.