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Lyman's 50th manual, new or used. The 49th is also fine. Ignore the load data at the back part, but as above, read and UNDERSTAND the entire instructions part in the front part. You can also ignore the folksy stuff about Uncle Joe's great squirrel hunt in 1976. Go slow and if stumped on a step...
I initially purchased the hand held (or power screwdrivered) Lyman. It was tedious, and took a long time and, in addition, shaved brass out of the pocket. I found the Dilllon to be fast, no muss, no fuss, no brass shavings and the "feel" when priming is the same as with non military brass with a...
There is no actual solution at hand.
When, and if, supplies open up, people are going to purchase 20,000 primers instead of 2,000 or whatever lower number they were used to OR wholesalers will buy ten of millions and release when they see what the market for the product is going, OR a lot...
I have had a few of each and have now gone back to a Redding balance beam. I found the Lee was a complete PITA to read but the Lee drop handled Varget better than the Redding drop.
CHECK THE WARRANTY OF ANY ELECTRONIC SCALE BEFORE YOU PURCHASE. THAT IS A MUST. IT MIGHT SURPRISE YOU IN A BAD WAY.
TypeTwelve-
You don't need to spend a gazillion dollars on a bore scope. See Teslong's line of products. You can view on a cell phone, computer or even your super duper 86" TV depending on which you might get. They range in cost from about $50 to around $100 ( I think that is correct for the...
Plastic and nylon, no false positives. Fast in copper fouling. Did you ask Henry? They absolutely will speak with you on the phone. Did you use a bore scope? If so, is there also a carbon ring lurking in there?
Until I got four wind flags for 100 yards, I though wind only came from four directions to affect the flight of the bullet and that a 15 mph wind was a constant. I was wrong. I am still trying to figure out wind. Subtle changes in direction and velocity will throw off a shot more than you would...
In a word, no. That seems really fast to me. BTW- Are you using a brass jag? If so, you are getting false positive readings. Pick up an aluminum jag and get a definitive reading. If no false readings, it probably is something else adversely affecting accuracy.
If you look at five manuals, you are going to see five different starting and maximum loads. There is often information available on line as to start and max loads from bullet and powder manufacturers.
I would use the Berger method (posted at its site) and then narrow it down from there.
Think about throat erosion and changing where the lands actually are after erosion. IMHO If anything is going to throw off best seating depth for your rifle, it is the erosion.
As stated above, it is easier to pick up on developing brass problems with clean brass. It is also a PITA adding extra steps to an already long list of steps needed to make a round of ammunition. I might be excommunicated from the clean brass set of folks, but I don't do it more than once every...
I just got the Dillon Super Swager 600. I tried the reamer attachment on the Lyman cutter with a power screwdriver. The Dillon, for $115 or so, works SOOOOOO much better and gets rid of the crimp without error in seriously two seconds with old fingers. See the You-Tube videos for demonstrations...
And who have zero interest in keeping their playpens clean and tidy.
Range rule where I shoot is "pick up your brass during each cease fire and put them into the buckets". I also sweep up my dirty patches after I finish my range day. I like clean.
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