1848 Colt Pocket revolver issue

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yugorpk

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I think my old Colt '48 pocket revolver (Wells Fargo scene with loading lever) is ready for a arbor freshening or at least adjustment. Wedge is bottomed out and Ive been using a shim for the last few years but even then it leaves the barrel on on the edge of the sloppy side. I havent been brave enought to see if the arbor can be screwed in or if there is anything holding it from being screwed in. Seems pretty stable.

Is it possible to run the arbor in a little further on these? The wedge is numbers matching and not worn .
 
My knowledge of fitment on these revolvers is limited. But there IS a pin holding the arbor from turning in the frame. I'd suggest you contact Goon gun works.
 
I assume this is an original Colt not a reproduction since you said the wedge is numbered. In any case the arbor is pinned in place and can not be turned without effecting the original value and it is a complex job in any case. From what you describe it sounds like a new slightly oversize wedge would be the cure. Of course you would want to keep the original.
 
Its an original. Been in the family since the California Gold Rush. Even if I put a thicker wedge it wouldnt work. Geometry prevents it. The arbor is just stretched a bit too much. Complicated work doesnt bother me and to be honest I'd rather do it myself than let it out of my sight.
 
With all due respect you might want to retire a valuable piece of history. While setting back an arbor is doable it really isn't practical.
 
Its a mechanical device that is repairable. The barrel is just a smidge loose . Mechanically is in excellent condition otherwise. Its not ready to be a worthless wall hanger and I'm not ready to stick it on the wall. I suppose if no one knows how to do it I'll just tear it down and figure it out.
 
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Like I said if you dont know how to fix it your opinion on the subject isnt all that valuable. If you do know how to set back the arbor on an early Colt revolver this would be a good time to expand on that thought. Calling it a "complex" job and "not practical" without expanding on the process or why you think that is the case isnt all that helpful. If you don't know how to do it just saying that int he first place is better than taking up screen space. Clearly I'm not interested in the resale value of a gun that hasn't been sold in 170 years and given the fact that I was a machinist and welder before I became a M.E. I think I can probably handle a simple job like setting an arbor back with a little instruction from someone who's done it before.
 
Oh I know how to do it. I also know that a wider wedge not thicker is the solution. You might have to make some small adjustments to the wedge window in the barrel assembly but nothing like the major adjustments you will have to make if you set the arbor back.
 
The wedge thickness and/or width is not the solution. The solution is to correct the arbor length to fit it to the lug and then thusly to the frame. One cannot create a correct barrel/cylinder gap without doing this. All the wedge does is to secure the barrel lug to the frame, nothing more. One can hammer the wedge in place or one can precisely fit the wedge with a slight push fit: the wedge has nothing to do with barrel/cylinder gap on a properly fitted revolver, no matter if it is a Dragoon, a Navy, an 1860 Army, or whatever open top percussion revolver: the mechanics are the same. It all has to do with the fit of the arbor to the barrel lug, and then one can judiciously adjust for barrel/cylinder gap. Many have stressed that before me, but many choose to ignore that fact.
 
Actually wedge width is the most likely problem from the OP's description. The wedge is a wear part. The arbor end and the barrel lug are unlikely to wear even in an original like this. Also since this is an original the arbor almost certainly bottoms out in it's recess as Colt was meticulous about this.
Recall that the OP stated that the wedge went in fully now even with the shim he was using and the barrel is a bit loose. A new wedge, a few thousands wider should correct that.
I should point out that the OP made no mention of excessive barrel cylinder gap.
 
Mike's set screw in the arbor is the easiest, but before he taught me that trick I soldered a shim in the arbor slot.
Being an original I would rule out the drilling and taping the arbor
I have removed 2 arbors on open tops. they screw in with the wedge slot lined up and the threads bottomed out and that is it-no adjustment!
 
Thanks Dave. It does work well and is a doable fix in numbers as well. One other aspect of it is the ability to adjust the wedge "placement" as well, if you want it further in or further out to allow for holster comfort.

Yugo, more than likely, shooting it with the barrel slightly sloppy may have done the battering. It can be fixed though. Nothing wrong with fixing a shooter!

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
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