1858 reassembly HELP!

[K.A.T.]

I,m a newbie to this BP revolver way of life. I've been shooting a 1860 Colt Army for about 2 months and love it. I just purchased a 1858 Uberti World Class,took it apart and cleaned it up,and got it ready to shoot.The mainspring in this thing is strong compared to the Colt 1860.I got it back together but it was like wrestling a bear. Does anyone have some instructions on the right way to do this?

 

[ArmedBear]

I've always just wrestled with it.

A vise grip and a rag help. Seat it on one end, lock on the vise grip, bend it, pop it in.

You did loosen the screw that holds it in, right?

I'd be curious if there's a better way.

(That's one reason why I like noncorrosive caps. I don't have to disassemble the butt end of the gun as often.)

 

[Jamie C.]

Sticking the top of the spring under the hammer and sliding the bottom of it sideways into the notch works for me. Didn't have any trouble at all.

Then again, the spring on mine isn't really that tight at all, with the retainer screw backed all the way off.

I'll have to take some pictures, the next time I have it apart.


J.C.

 

[K.A.T.]

That's the way I did it. This spring is real strong, I have some small visegrips,I'll give that a try next time. Thanks alot.

 

[ArmedBear]

If I recall, some needlenose pliers work, too, especially if you cover them with something that will keep you from gouging your spring.

Anything that will allow you to apply a little more force on the spring at the odd angle will make it quite doable.

 

[Wwalstrom]

1858 Mainspring

I've got 2 1858's. Never had a problem with the first one, but the stainless one I bought myself last year had to have some adjustments made. I opened up the spring slot a tad with a file, and added a lead-in. It's still more of a bear to get in as my other 1858, but not nearly as bad as it used to be.

 

[Old Dragoon]

OK here's the Remington drill.

I put the hammer and hand assy in the frame with NO screw, push it as far up as it will go, then install the mainspring, then I install the mainspring in the slot. I then, take a the round insert end of a Chapman screw driver or an empty 44 Cal brass between the mainspring and upper (rear) gripframe and Roll it as far towards the hammer as I can, this depresses the mainspring. With the mainspring depressed install the hammer screw. Roll the brass back down the mainspring until it's free. Mainspring is in with very little hassle. Then assemble the rest of the innards and you're done I coat all the inner parts and surfaces with Olive oil before I reassemble anything.

 

[ArmedBear]

Why olive oil?

I use regular gun oil. Is that bad? Does olive oil resist getting gummed up with cap fouling?

 

[dstorm1911]

petroleum based oils tend to turn into hard varnish with BP fauling

 

[Old Dragoon]

The use of any petroleum base solvents or oils tend to make bad JUJU Fouling and will slow down the works very quickly. So I use the olive Oil and it tends not to slow the actions down as much and the guns are way easier to clean. Any vegtable based oils or cleaners are preferred over petroleum based oils or cleaners. I do use hot soapy water to clean my bp guns. Take off the grips and immerse the whole shebang in hot soapy water(pistols), take apart, dry and clean and oil and reassemble.

 

[ArmedBear]

How do you dry them?

When you re-oil, do you use vegetable oil for the whole gun?

Thanks!

 

[K.A.T.]

Olive oil

Hi ArmedBear, these guys have taught me all that I know. The Olive oil works perfect for me inside and outside of the gun. After shooting take the gun completly apart, put all the parts in hot soapy water (except for the grips).I use pipe cleaners to clean the inside of the nipples, use a cleaning jag and a patch in the barrel,and the cylinder.You can use a toothbrush on every thing else. After all the cleaning is done rinse everything in hot water,dry off what you can with a dry wrag, or towel. I use a blow drier to dry all the parts, it will get them so hot you can't hold them in your hand. I read somewhere about using the oven to do this by setting the oven on the lowest setting,placing all the parts in a pan (not plastic) and placing it in the oven for about 30 minutes with the door left cracked open. Here is a step that I do,I don't know how these guys feel about this, after everything is dry,I take a Q-tip with Lacquer Thinner and clean. I use it on the nipples, inside the cylinder, run a patch with it thru the barrel, all inside the frame where the hammer and hand goes. I DON'T use it on the outside of the barrel or the cylinder where the blueing is at. It does not hurt the case colored frame, but I would be afraid to use it on the blued parts.You will be surprised at what it removes even after the hot soapy water cleaning. I use breachplug grease made by Knight on the threads of all the screws, and the nipples,taking extra pains to be sure it does not get in the cylinder.Everything else is oiled with Olive oil inside and out except for the grips.So far I've had no problems, and had alot of fun!

 

[Old Dragoon]

I rinse the guns off in hot water and let them air dry for a bit when they are cooleni=ough to handle I disassemble them and dump all the Inner parts into Olive oil screws and all. I make sure the cylinder is dry and I swab the chambers with a Q-tip with olive oil, not dripping but barely damp. Then I use a cleaning swatch(I get mine from Wally World) get it wetted with olive oil and wipe the cylinder and the bbl and frame, next I wipe the rammer I swab out the bbl, with Olive oil too. I leave a very light coating, Wiped almost all off. I clean the nipples with pipe cleaners also. Reassemble the gun. oil the cylinder pin(Remy), and put it in a gun case (like comes with guns from Cabela's)until the next time. When I get ready to load the gun I cap the revolver and pop the caps to burn any olive oil residue out of the nipples and that area of the chambers. Then I load, and use Bore Butter over the balls, then I shoot.