1911 disconnector question

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IlikeSA

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I've been working on a Springfield 1911 in 9mm and it seems to be binding a bit towards the end of the slide cycle and sometimes catches on the disconnector, failing to go into battery sometimes. The recoil spring was a 9 lb spring, and I could occasionally hang it up on the disconnector by hand cycling. I tried a 10 lb spring, and was able to do the same thing. A 12 lb spring will put it fully into battery, but I haven't had a chance to test fire it. I've probably put 2-3000 rounds through it, and have polished the frame to slide fit. I've also broken it down well and polished the appropriate areas for a good duty type trigger pull, somewhere around 4.75 lbs.

Today as I was examining it closer, I noticed that even while the trigger was held back and the slide cycled, the disconnector stuck up a minute amount and was contacting the slide, making it feel bound. Is the disconnector sticking up that much normal?

I dont want to send it back to Springfield, as it is my duty gun and I need it daily.
 
Yes, but with a .45 it is not noticeable. It is possible to adjust the arm on the sear spring to change the disconnector's upward pressure, but it would be a good idea to have a spare or ten around. Do it wrong, and the pistol machine guns. And, no, it is not fun.
 
The devil is in the details, especially on a tuned gun with lighter than stock springs. Is there a slight chamfer on the bottom edge of the breech face? How high above the deck is the top of the disconnector? Is the head of the disconnector well formed with the proper shape and polished smooth? How well finished (smooth) is the ramp in the disconnector where the center leg of the sear spring rides? Is the center leg of the sear spring chamfered and stoned smooth on the end where it rides on the disconnector? One option that works well is the "Marvel cut" on the disconnector rail/stripper rail. It is an angled groove, just wider than the head of the disconnector, starting at the breech face running out to nothing about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way to the disconnector clearance notch at the back of the rail. Almost all recently built bullseye guns will be found with it as well as some factory built S&W Model 52s. It works just as well on a carry gun. It will eliminate the hangup on the disconnector.

See it here - https://forums.1911forum.com/showpost.php?p=2825716&postcount=12
and here - https://forums.1911forum.com/showpost.php?p=11681354&postcount=27
 
How well finished (smooth) is the ramp in the disconnector where the center leg of the sear spring rides? Is the center leg of the sear spring chamfered and stoned smooth on the end where it rides on the disconnector?

MY Springfield's sear spring was so rough and sharp that it was digging into the disconnector bevel, causing a hitch in the slide movement. A Colt sear spring and stoning the gouges out of the bevel in the disconnector fixed it. The SA sear spring was just generally so shoddy that trying to clean it up would have been an emergency measure.
 
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. By tiny amount, the disconnector was approximately .062 inches out of the disconnector hole, as measured by stacked feeler gauges. I detail stripped the 1911 down to the sear spring again this afternoon, polished out the machine chatter marks the middle finger of the sear spring with mother's mag, and then put it into a vise and adjusted the angle of the middle finger slightly. The disconnector now goes almost all the way down, and while it touches the slide, it is sprung light enough to easily move when the slide recoils.

I did a function check, and the disconnector goes up when it is supposed to and down when it is supposed to do so. The slide travels mostly freely except the last part, when it hits the hammer. I'm okay with that, and I think it will work fine. Once again, thank you all for your suggestions. I'll carry my extra recoil springs when I shoot next.

Now to find open range to shoot that is a near enough drive away in the city, as most of them are reservation by members only.
 
I don't want to be rude, especially if your sure, but are you sure its the disconnector? Theres some weird 1911 trend on the internet to blame the disconnector for this exact problem by people who have no idea what they're doing. This is an extremely common problem with extractor adjustment, but if certain its the disconenctor, they are adjustable for tension, and can be smoothed up.
 
My extractor works well. With the changes I did, when I slingshot the slide, it loads like a champ. I'll have to get it out on a range to really wring it out and run it for reliability sake.
 
Just a hint. Load 1 in the mag and fire it. If all goes well, load 2 in the mag and fire 1. If you fire one without hammer follow or doubling, then load 3-4 and try that. If good to go, then you are good to load a full mag.

Disconnector adjustments including the sear spring are easy to over-do.
 
Ironically, I have one I have to do for a friend. He tried slipping the sear spring in without removing the grip safety. It's for a .22 upper, it will be a first for me, I've done many in .45 ACP.
 
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