1911 feeding diagnosis

JCSC

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A brief back story.

RIA GI full size 45, that has had a overhaul on parts.

Prior to my completion of this gun it cycled really well if it was sprung properly with the right ammo. The usual feed issue was the classic “nose dive”. I had replaced everything except the frame, slide and barrel. The gun was a little loose, but as mentioned cycled well at the end. Round count was a few thousand.

I then completed the project with the addition of a different RIA full size slide and a fresh coat of tungsten cerakote. This took a little fitting / break in on the slide and frame, but it is free and SMOOOTH as can be.

Initial firing session was getting a different failure to feed (see pic) on the start of every mag and usually once or twice during the 10 shot mag. I contributed this to break in and began investigating causes.

After a full disassembly and cleaning the extractor was polished on a buffer with jewelers rouge and the gun seemed to go in to initial battery well.

Second range session started out decent, but same feeding issues occurred on nearly every magazine, but never on the initial chambering. I ran thru 100 rounds that were lower power and after a spring change, I ran 40 full power loads which never seemed to hiccup. It appears the very strong recoil spring will force the round thru the area it is snagging.

What is the progression for trouble shooting a ftf like this? I’m thinking it is slide or breach face related?

This is not a magazine issue, as I have tried 7 different ones that have fed in the past.

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The case rim needs to slide up the breach face freely & under the extractor. May need the extractor adjusted.

Not common- The brass rim may increase in diameter from many full loads. Larger then SAAMI of .480" The slide face can be at minimum width, delaying the movement up the slide.
Haappened to me, hot loads in S&W 645. Reloaded lite for Gold Cup. No go on a few rounds.

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the very strong recoil spring
changes slide timing. Slows slide in recoil. Allows rounds more time to move up tne breach face.

Target loads in my GC need light contact from the extractor to function correctly. To extract/eject the fired brass.

My S&W 645 with maxed out Blue Dot loads requires the extractor to not touch the rim. The rim has free movement up the slide face.
 
I just polished it. It’s factory and worked in the other slide (not to say it will in this one)

Extractor was checked for tension on a blank brass.
Possibly look at the surfaces on the extractor hook. Check the breech face for smoothness. Something is preventing the case from easily sliding up behind the extractor hook.
 
Just polishing it won't help the extractor. The tension may need to be adjusted. If too much tension it will cause feeding problems. Too little tension may cause ejection problems. Replacement 1911 extractors are not necessarily plug and play.
 
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First thing you should check is your extractor tension. The extractor on a 1911 like on a Mauser rifle, is an important part of the feeding of a round. Follow this video and let us know if it solves the problem. I doubt it will but it is a first step.

 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I cleaned up rather than polished the extractor. My breach face is not super smooth, but not much I can do about that? Hopefully get a few rounds down range tomorrow and see if function improves.
 
I reassembled and function tested a single round per mag. Had 1 stick and got a few more pictures. The problem definitely lies between the breach and extractor.

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Bend the extractor out for less pressure between the extractor hook and breech face. And yes you can bend it too far out. This will make feeding easier. If bent too far out ejecting may be effected. Baby steps. It's a compromise between good feeding and good ejection (smokestacks).
 
Not actually being there, I'll throw out some things which I'd probably do:
-I'd use quality factory ammo. I couldn't tell from what was already said/posted, but it sounded like self-manufactured, aka reloaded ammo. I don't care if the reloaded type ammo worked previously in another gun. Many folks can't get over their personal self-loaded ammo might be the problem. Later, tune the ammo to the gun, not necessarily tuning the gun for one's personally-manufactured rounds.

-I'd go back to a quality 7 or 8 round mag, to debug things; then later try the 10-round mags as 10-round mags may have slightly different spring strengths and the angle of each round may vary from the originally designed 7-round mags (present day brand name quality 8-rounders will likely be OK if 7-rounders aren't immediately available). I don't care if the 10-rounders work in another 1911. Right now, we're trying to debug the subject RIA.

-Double check the paint job on the slide as I don't know what that paint has done to the slide's overall function; whether it's the breech-face, slide rails, or extractor tunnel, these areas immediately come to mind.

-One other extractor test might be to see how does a round load without any extractor present. You might remove the firing pin from this test at the same time. This can narrow down a feeding problem from the breech-face vs the extractor.

-With factory ammo and a 5" 1911, try a fresh 16 pound recoil spring to move back to what was probably the stock 5"1911 design. In the OP, it was stated the previous round count was "a few thousand". At ~3,000 rounds is when I'll typically begin noticing some failures on my 5" 1911s, due to their recoil springs wearing out. Upon examination, I'd find the used recoil spring ~2.5 coils shorter. As Post 5 mentioned, any recoil spring strength ratings differing from 16 pounds can cause timing issues. I don't know what the pound rating was of the replacement spring the OP used.

-Determine of there were any other changes made, which may not have been mentioned exactly. This could be a flat-bottomed firing pin stop; different main spring weights; paint on the breech face; again, I'm brainstorming as I can't be there to actually disassemble/examine/see/handle the exact gun or slide.

Good luck. Let us know what it was, if/when it's figured out:)
 
Circling back in this. I did a polish job on the breach face and made some minor adjustments to the extractor as prescribed above.

I just ran 130ish rounds with only one minor hiccup on a sub par mag.

I would say I just need to shoot it in shape now and it should get better with some wear.
 
I was digging through Dr Band’s attachment and thought this was interesting and maybe worth a note. I have an early EMP that this holds true for. The extractor exhibits no tension on a bullet at all, yet the pistol feeds and extracts with everything I throw at it. Ejects the casings in a pile. The ejector is long as discussed here. Just an observation for those with Commander types ….

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If things don't work out and you want to try a different extractor try a Wilson Bulletproof Extractor. Over the 45,000 + rounds I have put through 1911's I have replaced an extractor or two due to wear. Wilson's are the closest I have tried that are plug and play. No guarantees but I rarely have to tune the Wilson's and I get good life out of them.

 
I had this same sort of feed issue today at a uspsa match using armscor brass reloads in my hk usp expert .45, thankfully not during course of fire but on initial loading as well as during practice after the match, haven't had this issue using winchester or starline brass. May be brass related as others have stated. I've observed case rim deformation/Knicks/burrs on some of my brass from previous extraction, this combined with tight tolerances of the pistol could be causing your (and my) issue. Try different brass?
 
I had this same sort of feed issue today at a uspsa match using armscor brass reloads in my hk usp expert .45, thankfully not during course of fire but on initial loading as well as during practice after the match, haven't had this issue using winchester or starline brass. May be brass related as others have stated. I've observed case rim deformation/Knicks/burrs on some of my brass from previous extraction, this combined with tight tolerances of the pistol could be causing your (and my) issue. Try different brass?

Old thread but may be worth reading.
 
Circling back in this. I did a polish job on the breach face and made some minor adjustments to the extractor as prescribed above.

I just ran 130ish rounds with only one minor hiccup on a sub par mag.

I would say I just need to shoot it in shape now and it should get better with some wear.


Part of the breech visible in your pic, looked...rough?
 
Sounds to me you identified the culprit when you adjusted the extractor and got through 130 rounds with 1 minor hiccup.

The photos of the jam you posted point to an extractor in need of tuning.
 
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