1911 not going into battery with new reloads...Help

[marcodo]

New to me SW 1911 5". I have reloaded and shot several hundred reloads using w231 5.0gr 230 Winchester FMJ oal 1.250-1.260 without any issues. I recently purchased 1000 "Carroll 230gn LRN bevelbase magnum alloy "match grade" cast bullets" and loaded it with the same w231 5.0g but to an oal 1.250. The first round loads and fires but it then fails to go into battery on the next shot...and even seems to require a really hard pull to clear (almost like its stuck). The shot caseing expells no issue, it seems that its the loading of the next round thats the problem. The crimp is the same on both rounds and the bullet diameter measures the same. These bullets likely were sitting on my local gun shop shelf for awhile (not sure if that matters). I only made 50 to start...what do the guru's of reloading think the problem could be? What should I do next?...pull the remaining 35 bullets?...recrimp...shorten/lengthen...HELP!!! I stll have almost a thousand of these bullets left.

 

[SA Friday]

First, diasssemble the 1911, and check to ensure you do not have something stuck in the barrel. It sounds stupid, but stuff happens. Second, inspect the chamber for anything that would cause the FTF, like really bad carbon or lead build-up. Last, take one of the new reloads and insert it into the chamber and see if it's fully seating. Compare how one of your old reloads or some factory rounds looks fully seated to what these reloads look like. It's possible the new bullet profile is different enough that it is not allowing for the bullet to fully seat. Reloads OAL is determined by the bullets ogive, not how long it is. One bullet may not hit the rifling at the same length another bullet will.

As for your first shot being really hard to get out of the chamber, this would be consistant with a bullet being jammed into the rifling (OAL too long because of a different ogive profile) at firing instead of starting out OFF of the rifling. This causes a huge spike in chamber pressure.

If what I suspect has occurred, reseat the rounds deeper until you can see the cartridge will fully seat with the bullet not contacting the rifling. THEN take an OAL measurement and use that measurement for that bullet in that gun in the future.

 

[Jim Watson]

Cast bullets are usually a thousandth larger than jacketed. How are you measuring to get them the same?
A lot of 1911 copies have undersize chambers.

Try dropping rounds in the chamber clean and out of the gun. If they do not go in FREELY, see above. I doubt you need to load shorter than 1.250" with the usual shape bulk cast roundnose, but play with OAL and see where it gets you.
BE sure you have enough flare on the case mouth to start the cast bullets without scraping up a ring of lead. Be sure you taper crimp enough to at least eliminate the flare.

A Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die will iron out the lumps and make most rounds chamber.

 

[marcodo]

Thank You for the prompt responses. The original loads do not in fact fit freely into the barrel. The problem it seems that to get them to fit I need to get the oal down to 1.18-1.19 range. I'm relatively new to reloading and brand new to the 45...but boy that seems awfully short! I tried adjusting the crimp but this didn't seem to make big difference. You guys are right, I think the lead is being jammed into the rifling and getting stuck. Interesting factory FMJ are longer and fit fine...as does my reloads with fmj's ...its just the lead that seems to be an issue.
I also mis-spoke when I said the bullets are the same size, I meant the crimp was the same measurement.
What is the smallest oal I can go down to and still be safe knowing I am using a very light powder charge? Any other thoughts?

 

[kart racer]

My lrn measures 1.23 and they function fine in all of my 1911's and tanfoglios.My fmj reloads with zero or winchester bullets are normally 1.25-1.26.

 

[lee n. field]

The first round loads and fires but it then fails to go into battery on the next shot...and even seems to require a really hard pull to clear (almost like its stuck).

I've had that happen.

I bet if you examine the bullet, you will find marks where it has started to engage the rifling. Seat the bullet a hair deeper.

Remove the barrel and drop a loaded round in the chamber. It should fully seat with no effort.

 

[Jim Watson]

Marcodo, do your bullets look something like this
http://www.magnusbullets.com/images/bullet photos/image804.jpg
with an almost hemispherical nose and a clear dividing line between nose and bearing surface?
If so, that dividing line should be at or JUST above the case mouth. There is nothing to be gained by seating it so deep that the taper crimp brings brass in over the nose ogive. Take what OAL you get and chamber check.

 

[Snapping Twig]

I have a Kimber that has a tight chamber and I had a similar problem. Seating the bullets slightly deeper was the answer.

 

[marcodo]

Great Info Guys...
Jim that picture is it. I'll try deeper seating to just below that rim, but how short can I go and do I need to to reduce the charge any? Right now I have w231 5.1grs

 

[SA Friday]

Yes, seating deeper means less space in the case and a higher case pressure. Back the charge off .2 grains, seat deeper, and check the brass for pressure signs. If very little pressure sign, you can go hotter. But then again why? If these are target rounds, are accurate, and are cycling the gun, save the powder. You have acheved what you want. If you are trying to get a hot load to mimmic your defense loads, then got a bit more but stay within your loading chart. Don't reload for defensive loads.