1911 trigger question

[Rail Driver]

So I've been thinking about it, and I've searched the internet (and THR) for the answer but I can't find anything...

How do I get rid of the "takeup" on a 1911 stock trigger without changing any parts, or is it not possible?

I have a full size RIA 1911, and it has about 1/8" of takeup (trigger travel before resistance sets in) and a not too bad 4.3lb trigger.

I'd like to get rid of all the pre-travel/takeup, and smooth/lighten the trigger just a hair. I have a Colt with a 3.2lb trigger that is so consistent that it's religious, and I'd like my RIA to have a similar pull, even if it's a bit stiffer. I know how to properly polish parts without removing (too much) metal or changing angles, but I have few tools aside from diamond files and sandpaper.

Is it possible to remove the pre-travel without changing parts?

 

[Jolly Rogers]

Yes but a certain ammount of pretravel is a requirement.
Suggest you measure what you have and compare it to .040" to .060" which is the minimum safe ammount. You may not have too much to deal with and without precise measurement you cannot know what to do.
Joe

 

[Rail Driver]

Well, I lack a way to accurately measure it.

The trigger is under spring tension the entire way, but travels approximately 0.16" - 0.22" before I feel it contact the disconnector. Once it hits the disconnector everything is normal. By comparison, the trigger on my Colt Commander has little movement before contacting the disconnector (right around .1" maybe a bit less). The trigger on my RIA CSP is midway between the two, with approximately .125" of movement before contacting the disconnector.

 

[Skylerbone]

You can still adjust it safely if you perform a simple test after adjustment.

First the "log man test" as many of us call it requires first verifying an empty chamber/unloaded magazine then holding the trigger to the rear while cycling the slide just enough to engage the half-cock notch of the hammer. Allow the slide to return to battery then release the trigger and verify that the disconnector has reset. If so the trigger will be locked in the forward at-rest position and you will know you have sufficient pre-travel. A good test for all your 1911s JIC.

As for the trigger you're wanting to modify you can make two vertical cuts in the bow on its radius approx. 1/8" from the shoe for the first cut. The second cut comes about 5/16" from the shoe leaving you a "tab" about 3/16" wide. The length of the cuts should be no more than half the width of the bow.

Using a pair of needlenose pliers carefully bend the tab forward (toward the muzzle). Reassemble and perform the log man test.

A simpler option would be to replace the trigger with a Wilson or similar with tabs already cut (these will be horizontal rather than home-made vertical).

.025" is the minimal safe pretravel but will not allow passage of the test. .040" is a nice safe place to be.