22/45 bolt won't go back in

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Doc Mongo

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So I was having trouble getting the gun stripped, tried the rubber mallet trick with success.

Now I can't get it back together. The bolt won't go back in.

The hammer is out of the way, I made sure of that. No idea what position the strut is supposed to be in but no spot seems to help.

Getting really frustrated with this little pistol, which sucks because I like it otherwise.

Can someone help me figure this out?

Thanks
 
Remove the upper and see if the bolt will go into it. If it will then you know it’s something to do with the hammer. If it won’t, make sure the bolt is the right way up ;) and check to make sure the recoil spring guide is seated fully into its slot at the front and the “fork” is centered and flush at the rear. And make sure it’s the correct bolt for your model. A MKII bolt won’t go into a MKIII upper unless you remove the LCI. And make sure the firing pin stop pin is flush with the bolt. AND make sure the bolt lock lever/slide release is DOWN.

Hammer needs to be FULLY cocked/flush with the grip frame to insert the bolt if the upper is on the grip frame. You can also put the bolt into the upper, and install the upper, with bolt inserted, onto the grip frame IF the hammer is in the FIRED position. Hammer strut always needs to be behind/rearward of the cross pin.

This may help


When in doubt follow this procedure
https://guntalk-online.com/2245detailstripping.htm
 
I got it!

I did a lot of YouTube (and soul) searching but nothing was quite getting me there, which is why I asked here.

The hammer was out of the way, and I assure you the bolt was the right side up:thumbup:. It was something to the right of the hammer alongside the frame that was sticking up just a bit and blocking the bolt. I didn't notice at first because I was focusing on the hammer.

Either way, it's in now. I'll get it to the range this weekend and see how it goes.

Thanks for those that provided insight.
 
The gun is really such a reliable and simple little workhorse, it's almost like reassembly is to keep us from taking the performance for granted. I have no idea how much time I've spent on YouTube smelling like Ed's Red frustrated to the edge of fury, only to follow the instructions and do exactly what I'd been doing one more time, and have everything be right with the world again.
 
The MKII and MKIII of these was a constant source of anger to many a shooter. Whoever invented the system used in the MKIV sure deserves to have made real bank for the idea. I still have my old MKII 22/45. Most of the time it goes back together easy. The MKIII I had bricked so bad one time I thought I would have to send it back. Some nice gal their at Ruger walked me through how to fix it that time. Next time I did it again I found someone who wanted the top end for a project and was glad to let it go since I had a MKIV by then. Most people once they get to try a MKIV they LOVE it:D
 
I dunno, once you realize what is happening inside the gun, the hokey pokey dance you do becomes rather intuitive. The mk4 is definitely an improvement in disassembly, I just wish the safeties didn't get in the way of my grip. I hate those safeties......
 
I had a terrible time with the 22/45, I took it apart before I shot it for the first time. I didn't know. I got the thing together in the configuration where you can't retract the bolt and the knife blade take down thing on the back won't budge.
I worked it out and became one with the mk3. Shot the snot out of that pistol and loved it, sold it towards a mk3 comp. target (slab sided barrel model) . Still have that mk3 and won't sell it. I'm in the market for mk2&3 pistols if they're cheap because of the takedown.
I haven't seen that though .

Once you get the swing of it, no problem at all to take a mk2 or 3 apart . you did hold your mouth right when you were working on it , right???
:confused:
 
I have no problems taking apart my Mark III Hunter and really enjoy shooting it. After so many year it takes about 5 minutes to re-assemble it. It's the most accurate of my .22s. I did change to the new Mark IVs when they first came out and bought a 22/45 Lite for shooting Steel Challenge matches.

Worst case scenario is to read the manual and follow it completely. It tells you everything you need to know to get that gun back to shooting. Although my shooting buddy still has to RTFM every time. He's stubborn and will never learn how to do it.

Mark III Hunter Medium mounts.jpg
 
I purchased my 22/45 Mk3 Target during the great 45 ACP famine of '09, so I could shoot a pistol similar in feel to my 1911 Commander. It has been a trusted accurate pistol since then. I found it tricky to reassemble at first,now its second nature. I recently upgraded the grip frame to a Volquartsen Target Frame. The 2.5# trigger has taken the accuracy to a even higher level. I have to say this is now my favorite pistol and with the Mini Mags I stashed during the good times,I can conserve my centerfire round stash.
View attachment 977554
 
JohnB-40 said:
I purchased my 22/45 Mk3 Target during the great 45 ACP famine of '09, so I could shoot a pistol similar in feel to my 1911 Commander. It has been a trusted accurate pistol since then. I found it tricky to reassemble at first,now its second nature. I recently upgraded the grip frame to a Volquartsen Target Frame. The 2.5# trigger has taken the accuracy to a even higher level. I have to say this is now my favorite pistol and with the Mini Mags I stashed during the good times,I can conserve my centerfire round stash.
View attachment 977554
Click to expand...
LMK if you want to sell your OEM grip frame.
 
Hope you figured it out.

For fun, I pulled my Mk III 22/45 out of the safe a week ago and pulled it apart but couldn't get it back together. So I looked closely at what I needed to do.

1) When reassembling, the hammer needs to be *back*, not forward. Slide the bolt in.
2) You now have to put the mag in due to the mag disconnect, tilt the gun down, pull the trigger. Make sure that the hammer is rotated ALL the way forward. It doesn't always get there. I just use a dowel or small stick to push the hammer all the way forward.
3) Stick the rear lock assembly into the bolt. Make sure the hammer strut fits into the spot where the mainspring is. Then the lock assembly will fit right in and the gun is back together.

Once I figured out those steps, I pulled the other 3 Rugers (2 MK II Govt Targets and another Mk III 22/45), and took them down and put them back together. It got really fast and easy.
 
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