22 hornet

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batch73

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I am having problems with 22hornet brass. When I full size it. It leaves a ring at the bottom of my brass any suggestions?
 
Do you need to FL size it?

I have two rifles that use the 22 Hornet brass. In both, I only neck size the case. It prolongs the life of the brass and gives me better accuracy. I segregate the brass by rifle so the chambers are not a problem.

Kevin
 
as stated...neck sizing is generally all you need to do with this case.

remember the walls of this case are paper thin...even a little too much case lube will give you a wrinkled case.

case prep is very important here...I always decap separately from sizing with most of my brass but especially with hornet brass. then tumble, clean your primer pocket and then using a 223 brass bore brush run it through the case neck. then use a dry case lube like from Lyman and neck size it. for general shooting just seat your sizing die then crank it out about 1 full turn and you should be good to go. of course you could get a nice collet neck sizer but in most situations you dont' really need it.

Hope this helps!
D
 
It could be a mark left from the sizer die. I often see it on my .30/06 brass.

I reload the .22 Hornet for my T/C Contender and I neck size after the initial firing. Keep the loads mild and the brass should last for several firings.
 
The .22 Hornet started out in the 1880s as the .22 Winchester Central Fire. As a black powder cartridge it was a bit overbore, so Winchester made the case a loose fit in the chamber, as well as quite tapered -- to prevent cases from sticking in hot, fouled chambers.

The FIRST step in getting accuracy from the Hornet is to fire-form the cases -- shoot them in YOUR chamber, and DON'T full length resize, or you're back where you started. The bulge you're seeing at the base of the case is evidence of this.

I use the Lee Collet Die -- this squeezes the neck radially, and exerts no pressure at all on the case body. I put a couple of washers on the shell holder. This causes the collet to activate early and only size the FRONT half of the neck.

At this point I have a case that fits the chamber, and the expanded lower part of the neck acts as a pilot, centering the bullet in the throat.

I use L'il Gun (is there anyone who doesn't believe Li'l Gun is THE powder for the Hornet?) I use the case itself as a dipper -- fill it full, tap it to settle the powder a bit and put it in the loading block. When the block is full, use a flashlight to be sure all cases are filled to the same level.

The ideal bullet for the Hornet is the 35 grain Hornady V-Max. This bullet has such a short nose that you can seat it out to contact the rifling and still be able to feed through the magazine.

In my Kimber, I'm shooting .5 inch groups at 3,100 fps.
 
Don't mean to hijack the thread. Just add Hornet info. Any tips on loading cast bullets in the Hornet? I was thinking of trying them for plinking. I have a 77/22 sporter. I was also thinking about sending it to that place in CT and having them make it a K-Hornet. I herd the brass lasts longer. I'm already fire forming and using the Lee die and Lil,gun. Thanks.
 
Scooter, there is a forum dedicated to cast bullets and they have multiple threads on the 22 Hornet.

As for the K Hornet. With modern firearms, the standard Hornet brass should last about as long as the K Hornet. The original problem came about because early chambers were cut by individual gunsmiths and the reamers were all over the place. It took a long time but modern chambers are held to much tighter tolerances. Neck sizing is the way to go until the case expands to much to fit the chamber. Than a pass through the full length sizer.

Kevin
 
Don't mean to hijack the thread. Just add Hornet info. Any tips on loading cast bullets in the Hornet? I was thinking of trying them for plinking. I have a 77/22 sporter. I was also thinking about sending it to that place in CT and having them make it a K-Hornet. I herd the brass lasts longer. I'm already fire forming and using the Lee die and Lil,gun. Thanks.
I have a .225 plain base 45 grain wide flat nose 4 cavity bullet mould from NEI and a .225 Plain Base Checkmaker from Par Marlins.

www.neihandtools.com

http://www.patmarlins.com/

The Checkmaker makes gas checks from soda cans. These checks are only .004" thick and are for plain based bullets. I seat them by running the bullet (with gas check in place) backwards through a .225 Lee Sizing Die. I lubricate with Liquid Alox.

I have two loads with this bullet -- 8 grains of Hodgdon's Li'l Gun beats the .22 WMR by about 150 fps. And 2.7 grains of Bullseye just about duplicates the .22 Long Rifle.

Both of these loads shoot sup-1" groups at 50 yards in my Model 82 Kimber.

I use small pistol primers and DON'T size the cases. I decap with a universal decapping tool and slightly flare the case mouths with a pin punch -- just insert it into the case mouth and tap it until I can insert a bullet by hand and it goes in until the gas check is below the case mouth.
 
Not sure if I have posted this before but here is a very early 22 Hornet, a Springfield Model 1922, converted to CF and chambered for the 22 Hornet.

Kevin
 

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I am having problems with 22hornet brass. When I full size it. It leaves a ring at the bottom of my brass any suggestions?
the 22 hornet seats on it's rim not it's shoulder,that is why you should only neck size,use only the lee collet sizing die and size only about 3/16 down the neck.
the hornet likes a crimp as the thin case will let the bullet jump the primer without a good crimp,and the lee collet crimping die works like a charm on that thin case,do not over crimp,a light crimp is all that is needed.
PRESIDENT TRUMP THANK GOD
 
Scooter, there is a forum dedicated to cast bullets and they have multiple threads on the 22 Hornet.

As for the K Hornet. With modern firearms, the standard Hornet brass should last about as long as the K Hornet. The original problem came about because early chambers were cut by individual gunsmiths and the reamers were all over the place. It took a long time but modern chambers are held to much tighter tolerances. Neck sizing is the way to go until the case expands to much to fit the chamber. Than a pass through the full length sizer.

Kevin
I have a K Hornet, and I've always neck-sized with no difficulties. I've also tried light loads such as 2.7-3.2 gr Bullseye; I put a small piece of TP over the powder to keep it against the flash hole. I've only done this with jacketed bullets, though, and got a disappointing 1" at 50 yds. I'll have to revisit this with lead.
 
I have a K Hornet, and I've always neck-sized with no difficulties. I've also tried light loads such as 2.7-3.2 gr Bullseye; I put a small piece of TP over the powder to keep it against the flash hole. I've only done this with jacketed bullets, though, and got a disappointing 1" at 50 yds. I'll have to revisit this with lead.
You're getting what I would expect from light loads. In fact, if you get that kind of accuracy from cast bullets, be happy. You have a reloadable .22 LR.
 
I've reloaded and shot the Hornet fo 40+years. Much data....

I actually partially full length size my Hornet. My Ruger M77 has an out of round chamber that is not exactly axial to the bore. It shoots MUCH better if the cases "lay" in the chamber the same way round to round.

Best powder varies with bullet weight. 33-35, H110/296 is best with #2400 getting honorable mention.
40-45gr, it's Lil 'Gun. 12.5gr with a Sierra Varminter hollow point (or Nosler Varmageddon) at 1.780" is the best load, at nearly 3,000fps.

50gr bullets (heaviest that are accurate) over Acc1680 has given some amazing groups, though is a tad slow. 2500fps, but once got a 5-shot one-hole group. Exact 5 same cases, powder charge, bullets, next day did not duplicate results, but was still 3/4" at 100yds. Actually, rare for my rifle. 1.5-2moa more typical.

I just this week I took the Hornet out and shot up all my mixed lot cast bullets.
So long SR4759!!! I shot some sub 2moa groups with both the Lyman 22541 mold (old before now called 225415) and much more recently Lee .225 55gr RFGC. 7.0gr SR4759 is fabulous in the Hornet with cast bullets.
Other good powders are Unique (of course!), at 4.6gr, and #2400 at 6.2gr.

So far, with the .218 Bee I recently aquired, nothing beats 7.4gr. 1,850fps and 2moa. (With cast).

Fortunately, 8oz of powder goes a long way at 7gr per charge...
 
Hi, Batch73. Great to see another Hornet shooter!

You are getting some good advice here. Vern's and Goose's tips have worked out well for me. And I think Strawhat has a piece of history!

I have a CZ and an old Savage in Hornet, and they are remarkable. The CZ loves 40 gr V-Max with Lil'Gun, and the Savage loves cast boolits with a little bit of Green Dot, for anywhere from 22 LR to 22 WMR velocities. The Hornet is a wonderful cartridge. Under-rated but long-lived!

But back to your original question. As mentioned, a pic would help. But full length sizing often leaves a "ring" where the case body meets the solid head/web of the case. That may be what your are seeing. Just make sure it is not a thinning of the case body, which can lead to case head separation. Search the forum for "stretch ring" for more info.

But as mentioned, I never full length size the Hornet, so it is not an issue for me.

P51D
 
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