Annealing isn’t something you really need to worry with at this point. Annealing is heating the case necks to stress relieve the brass back to a more uniform condition. For anything you’re doing with an AR, annealing simply is not a critical step. Headstamp sort your brass, start with new brass, and sort by firing count. If one piece seems to seat harder than others, set it aside and shoot it for practice but not critical groups. The fact you do not anneal is NOT standing between you and sub-MOA accuracy.
The choice to not shoot Sierra Matchkings is also NOT standing between you and sub-MOA accuracy in 223/5.56, even in an AR. 73 and 75 ELD’s (and their former name, the A-Max) have shot sub-MOA in dozens of the rifles I have built, and I have sent cheap 50grn Vmax’s over a generic charge of 27.3grn Varget into sub-MOA groups from literally hundreds of AR barrels (dirt cheap and sufficiently effective 0-500/600yrd load). I’ve shot a lot of different bullets from several brands into sub-MOA groups.
Specifically for H335, I had a client commission a Coyote calling AR a handful of years ago, who also wanted primary bullet testing done, using his provided CCI 450’s, FC brass, and H335 - because he had heavy inventory of these. I tested 50, 53, and 55 Vmax’s, 50 NBT’s, 55 CT BST’s, 60 Partitions, 69 and 77 SMK’s, and 75 Amax/ELD’s. Using a generic, arbitrarily chosen ~3/4 of max charge weight of H335, all but the 60 Partition and the 75 Amax held 4 shots under 1moa - and reworking the Partition load (seating depth) took it down sub-MOA too. I loaded some 73 ELD’s over H335 for my 20” rifle two years ago just as another option instead of eating up my Varget stores, and held sub-MOA out to 600yrds (farthest I shot it). It’s just not that much to ask of a well built AR to shoot sub-MOA.
“Small base dies” like that RCBS AR series set have tighter dimensional standards for the body of the case. Not a bad idea for anyone reloading for AR’s, as there is little to no little consequence if you have it but don’t need them, but avoids the negative consequence of failed feeding if you don’t have it and end up needing it. Some brands make all of their 223/5.56 dies to small base spec - Lee and Dillon for example. So it’s not a wrong choice to pick the Small Base AR series dies, but it MIGHT be a wrong choice to get the other, standard die set. This choice also won’t stand between you and sub-MOA accuracy, as the only difference will be potential for over-dimension case bodies from chambering smoothly, failing to close into battery. For the price of each set, I’d get the small base dies and never look back.