.223 reloading on Dillon 550B

Palladan44

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Been loading pistol cartridges for years, but lately been picking up shooting more rifle.

I'd like to get on the fast track to loading .223/5.56 cartridges on my Dillon 550B.
I plan on acquiring a die set and caliber conversion kit from Dillon.

Curious about brass trimming and other prep. I have various mixed lot of 223 Brass, and 5.56 military brass. I likely have 75% 5.56 to 25% 223 brass ratio.

My plan is to deprime, and hand ream the crimped primer pockets.....

Any suggestions on gadgets, tricks, etc.
Thanks!
 
Kind of depends upon volume you're talking about . Trimmers are kind of a preference ,some use electric ,some use hand crank lathes and others use drill powered chucked cutters . Other than that it depends upon WHAT YOU'RE shooting them out of ; Bolt or Gas gun and is it 5.56X45mm chambered or .223 ?. IF You have a Wylde chamber doesn't matter except CASE LOAD PRESSURE ,it will chamber Both easily .
If You're reaming ,no need for Swage unit but at times can sure come in handy . Conversion Plate YES , Dies ?? ,I'd prefer others as I have both but again that's personal preferences .
 
Most all of these are in 5.56 chambered ARs.

I'm thinking I could load up to 1000 of these a year, maybe more.
 
Like Kingcreek said.

I wet tumble, size, trim.

I hate trimming brass. I use a Franklin Arsenal trimmer. It’s fairly fast, fairly accurate. I trim .223 to 1.175.

I put my sized/trimmed brass in 50 round containers until I have 3-400. Then I sit down and load 3-400 at a time. Just how I do it.

I have the 550C. I usually weight each charge until I get consistent weights (usually 4-5 rounds). Then I weigh 1 out of every 10 for the first 50 or so. After that I only weigh one every 50 or so. I’ve been using TAC, which meters great in my machine.

I’m fortunate that I have 1,000s of same headstamp brass so, although I measure OAL periodically, once I get a few right, the measuring is really to make sure the die hasn’t moved.

Have fun with it!
 
Thousands of loaded rounds on a 550.
Separate mil brass from commercial before loading.
Polish, size and trim.
OK, so deprime/resize before trimming to length. Got it.

How many loadings can I expect to get from brass that's trimmed without having to trim again? Any difference between the annealed 5.56 brass and the un annealed .223 brass as far as case life?
 
Also, any reason to NOT use the Lee Pacesetter 3 die set? It's priced highly affordable....... it has the size/deprime, seater and Factory crimp die.
I use these in some pistol calibers and don't mind them at all.
 
Here's how I load .223 on my 550, I do about 2-3K a year for match ammo in basically in 2 stages and I use 2 separate tool heads. This is mostly range pick-up brass from matches that I process this time of year, post hunting season, chitty weather and dark early:

Stage 1:

1. De-prime on an old RCBS RockChucker
2. Wet tumble using SS pins
3. Dry in a "re-purposed" dehydrator
4. Check primer pockets; cull loose pockets, set aside crimped and swage them later
5. Anneal on my BC1000
6. Lube with Hornady 1 shot on a cookie tray, let sit for about 15 minutes
7. Size on the 550 using a tool head with just a FL sizing die on it
8. Run brass through a vibratory cleaner to take the lube off
9. Run through a Giraud tri-way trimmer on a drill press (just running them all through is faster than measuring)

Stage 2 usually 500 rd lots
1. Prime and load on the 550 with just a seating die
2. When boxing I set aside the PMC brass loads for the "long" stage. The rest go as mixed brass for the normal stages.

The precision/hunting loads go through the same basic steps, but are kept in 100 rd "lots", done on a single stage press, it a FL Bushing dies set for that rifle's chamber.
 
Been loading pistol cartridges for years, but lately been picking up shooting more rifle.

I'd like to get on the fast track to loading .223/5.56 cartridges on my Dillon 550B.
I plan on acquiring a die set and caliber conversion kit from Dillon.

Curious about brass trimming and other prep. I have various mixed lot of 223 Brass, and 5.56 military brass. I likely have 75% 5.56 to 25% 223 brass ratio.

My plan is to deprime, and hand ream the crimped primer pockets.....

Any suggestions on gadgets, tricks, etc.
Thanks!

The 550 is a great press for loading rifle.
I would sort down the LC brass and segregate it out for loads you want to be more consistent. Maybe go a step further if you see alot of a single year stamp. This will give you some brass you can really work on any accuracy type loads thats pretty consistent.
As far as brass prep, decap as usual. I would decrimp every piece of brass though. Alot of 223 commercial brass is crimped today. I prefer the RCBS crimp cutter, but the Hornady style cutters are easier to use if going at it by hand.
As far as trimming you can go at it by hand with a lathe style trimmer, or use something like a WFT2 on a drill. I prefer a motorized trimmer for any amount of case trimming and there are alot of good options out there.
You can certainly resize on the 550, but it may be just as easy to run it on the single stage you use for pistol. Either way its a double pass, size then tumble before loading. I also like a spray lube made from lanolin and iso alcohol, but once again, lots of options.
 
I've got a 3-Die Lee set on the way from ebay. I've got a caliber conversion kit on the way from Dillon..... I'm just debating on where to go as far as a trimming setup.
Then powder and bullets after that.
 
I tried loading .223 on my Dillon RL-550B, and just couldn’t accept the idea of seating primers in a lubed case and then dumping powder in said lubricated case. I then tried sizing the cases separately and then using the Dillon to prime, charge and seat the bullets, but that didn’t seem that much faster, so I just reverted back to the single stage RCBS Rockchucker and process brass through the de-priming, tumbling, resizing, trimming, primer pocket uniforming/staging and priming. I store it that way, and then just charge the cases and seat the bullets with the single stage press.
 
To answer your question about how many firings between trimming depends on the chamber on your rifle.

If you trim to 1.750, you should get 3 firings before it exceeds 1.760.

But like I said, it varies be pending on the chamber it’s fired in, and how hot the load is.

I don’t anneal, and I get 3 before it needs trimming again.
 
Curious about brass trimming and other prep.

Any suggestions on gadgets, tricks, etc.

I don't bother measuring my fired .223 brass to see if it needs trimming. My thinking is that the amount of time spent measuring and sorting brass to be trimmed could just be used running it through the trimmer, so that's what I do. If it needs trimming it gets it, and if it doesn't need it then I've only wasted a few seconds.

I usually load between fifty and a hundred at a time, so that's how many I trim at a time. Using my hand cranked trimmer I can do a hundred pieces in about ten minutes at a relaxed pace. If I were doing large batches I would invest in a powered trimmer.

chris
 
I don't bother measuring my fired .223 brass to see if it needs trimming. My thinking is that the amount of time spent measuring and sorting brass to be trimmed could just be used running it through the trimmer, so that's what I do. If it needs trimming it gets it, and if it doesn't need it then I've only wasted a few seconds.

I usually load between fifty and a hundred at a time, so that's how many I trim at a time. Using my hand cranked trimmer I can do a hundred pieces in about ten minutes at a relaxed pace. If I were doing large batches I would invest in a powered trimmer.

chris
Do these trimmers de-bur or chamber at the same time? A friend has a system of trimming thar involves additional steps after the initial trimming. I'd like to avoid this....
 
I don't bother measuring my fired .223 brass to see if it needs trimming. My thinking is that the amount of time spent measuring and sorting brass to be trimmed could just be used running it through the trimmer, so that's what I do. If it needs trimming it gets it, and if it doesn't need it then I've only wasted a few seconds.

I usually load between fifty and a hundred at a time, so that's how many I trim at a time. Using my hand cranked trimmer I can do a hundred pieces in about ten minutes at a relaxed pace. If I were doing large batches I would invest in a powered trimmer.

chris

Thats the same that I do, except I use a Dillon RT1500. I figure if it trims, great. If not, it just gets sized. I used to do the same method, I just used a WFT2. Sized everything, and run it thru the trimmer whether it needed it or not.

Do these trimmers de-bur or chamber at the same time? A friend has a system of trimming thar involves additional steps after the initial trimming. I'd like to avoid this....

If you want to do that, there is a couple options, but I think the Giraud Tri-Way is probably the best option. And be that you are just going to use it for 223, you can set it and forget it, and it will be ready everytime you need it.
 
If you want to do that, there is a couple options, but I think the Giraud Tri-Way is probably the best option. And be that you are just going to use it for 223, you can set it and forget it, and it will be ready everytime you need it.

This^^^

My trimmer only trims, and I chamfer and deburr in a separate step. I'm not in a hurry when I load, and just do small batches on a single stage, so it works for me. If I shot as much as I used to I would have to get a progressive to keep up, but my shooting volume just isn't that much these days.

Find what works for you and enjoy it.

chris
 
I'm just thinking on getting 1000 pcs of 55gr FMJ-BT (M193 projectiles) and whatever powder I find first that "Meets Requirements"
so to speak.....
WW-748
Varget
Or something similar.
I'm just looking to make some general purpose training loads, and if I'm able to make these more accurate than commercial "general purpose" ammunition, then I'll get into refining my techniques.... (I have a hunch that this will happen)

If it does happen, I'm highly interested in getting a load worked up for my Colt- CAR A3 HBAR that can shoot better than 2- 1/4" at 200 yds (the current record w/ factory ammo)....but I'm not going to strive for that out of the gate..... (FYI it has a 20" 1:9 twist HBAR stainless barrel)

At first Im looking to make some general purpose loads for AR platforms (mostly M4s w/ 16" 1/7 twist barrels) that I can do rifle drills with. The farthest I do that is to 100 yds, where I'm looking to hit the FBI "bottle" target somewhere about in the middle of it.....
Match quality probably not needed.
Most of this shooting im looking to hit it at 10-50 yds.
I'll see where this goes! Will be fun.
I appreciate all the tips and suggestions so far! Thank you.
 
I have a Colt H-Bar 16" barrel with 1/9 twist, and I usually don't shoot past 50 yards. My current favorite load is using 55gr Hornady BTSP with a near max load of IMR 3031 from Hornady's 10th edition. Most other data sources would have my load at mid-range. Accurate enough for me to easily hit a 4" plate at 50 yards with open sights, which is good enough for what I do.

Let me know if you want the exact load.

chris
 
To answer your question about how many firings between trimming depends on the chamber on your rifle.

In my experience it’s more do to the difference in size of the ammunition in relation to the chamber.

Of course semiautos need clearance for things to operate reliably but with bolt action rifles, with the right dies and settings, one might not ever need to trim but once.

On the other side of the coin would be a machinegun with a eroded chamber may wreck a case beyond repair with the first firing.
 
I'm just thinking on getting 1000 pcs of 55gr FMJ-BT (M193 projectiles) and whatever powder I find first that "Meets Requirements"
so to speak.....
WW-748
Varget
Or something similar.
I'm just looking to make some general purpose training loads, and if I'm able to make these more accurate than commercial "general purpose" ammunition, then I'll get into refining my techniques.... (I have a hunch that this will happen)
Suggest you find a deal on a ball powder, Ramshot TAC is my personal favorite, but many others work H-335, Accurate 2230, 2460, Ramshot X-Terminator. You might even consider Shooters World Tactical Rifle. Powder Valley has it available in 8 lb keg for just $199 + shipping and hazmat.

If it does happen, I'm highly interested in getting a load worked up for my Colt- CAR A3 HBAR that can shoot better than 2- 1/4" at 200 yds (the current record w/ factory ammo)....but I'm not going to strive for that out of the gate..... (FYI it has a 20" 1:9 twist HBAR stainless barrel)
If your goal is under 3 “ groups at 200 yards, you might need to upgrade your bullet. In my experience, that level of accuracy is difficult to achieve with any 55 gr FMJ-BT projectile. Consider a 69 gr BTHP from Sierra, Nosler or RMR. Or possibly a 68 gr or 75 gr BTHP from Hornady. Not sure if your 1 in 9” twist would stabilize the 75 gr.

At first Im looking to make some general purpose loads for AR platforms (mostly M4s w/ 16" 1/7 twist barrels) that I can do rifle drills with. The farthest I do that is to 100 yds, where I'm looking to hit the FBI "bottle" target somewhere about in the middle of it.....
Match quality probably not needed.
Most of this shooting im looking to hit it at 10-50 yds.
This is where your 55 gr FMJ-BT bullet will do just fine for training and drills.
I'll see where this goes! Will be fun.
I appreciate all the tips and suggestions so far! Thank you.

See replies in bold above.
 
See replies in bold above.

I second this
Ball powder, no need for something that meters hard like Varget. H335, AA2230 are also both great candidates as well. If running from a powder drop, keep it either ball or short cut extruded.
A 55 or 62 is a good choice with a 9 twist. A 69 might be hit or miss, but will shoot better. The RMR 69s at 14 cents a pop are a good bullet.
 
I have a little crow gun works .223 trimmer on the way. No telling if someday I'll bump up my volume, so might as well have a good tool for the start.
So does this thing de-bur, clean the edges after trimming so they're ready to load?
 
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