Just my contribution for comparison:
I use an LCT to reload .223/5.56.
I have only been at it a year but in that time have loaded and fired around 2000 rounds through several different AR rifles (no bolt guns) and have only had one malfunction - that was a round which stuck in the chamber and had to be mortared out, though it didn't take much effort.
I believe that was due to a piece of brass which only got partially re-sized due to my hurried efforts earlier in the day.
I use only range pickup brass of all varieties, from new and pretty nice to old and truly gnarly. If I can clean it up and resize it, I use it.
I de-cap on a universal decapper mounted in a separate turret.
I trim brass using the Lee lock stud in a power drill, and the cutter and size gauge handheld. I had to use blue loc-tite on the cutter and size gauge to get it to stop changing length, but after that- no problems and a consistent trim.
I ream out the primer crimps using a phillips head screwdriver bit in the power drill which is mounted in a bench vise. (* Like
mjsdwash describes^^ up above me there, except my old B&D drill cost $5 at a thrift store.
)
The Lee de-bur and chamfer piece works at first, sort of... but it wears out fast. I now use a handheld Hornady piece which works well and seems like it'll last a long time.
I re-prime on the press since that feature was provided when I bought the LCT as a kit. Seems to work well.
I don't use a small base die, just the normal Lee resize/decap, seater, and FCD. I have a rifle charging die set in between the re-size die and the seating die which allows me to use the auto-drum powder drop mounted on the press.
The Lee FCD for bottle-neck rifle cartridges is different from the ones used for straight wall cartridges.
The FCD for straight wall uses a carbide ring which can pretty much re-size your whole dang round depending on how you have it set.
The FCD for rifle cartridges has four semi-circular little horizontal clamp pieces near the top which move in under pressure to clamp around the neck of the round, squeezing it.
I have mine set to just barely kiss the mouth of the case a little into the cannelure, in an attempt to avoid possible set-back since the rounds are being used in semi-auto rifles.
I am told this is mostly unneccessary, but that's how I started and I'm still new.
Seems to work for me.
I use mostly Hornady 62 grain lead core fmj bullets, though I have used a variety of others.
I use whatever SR primers I have handy, and usually WC-844 powder which I bought in bulk last year. It's the non-cannister version of H335.
I do not have a chronograph, but I have not been able to tell the difference between commercial H335 and the (new, not surplus or pull-down) WC-844. By now, I treat them alike for my loads.
I think I'm liking IMR 4198 lately, also, but of course we have the 'rona and the panic to deal with and now it's harder to experiment freely with different components.
Be careful using the auto-index feature in conjunction with the auto powder drum -- when I get to moving too fast the powder will bounce out of the case as it moves around to the seating die, changing the load.
Well, there's a wall of text. Maybe someone might find a bit of something helpful.
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Edited to brag about my cheap drill!