.223 Reloading Question

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Cts171

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Hello,

I'm new on here and this is my first post. Started reloading 5.56/.223 during covid when it was difficult to get ammo so I could still shoot on a regular basis. I've always used Accurate 2230 and have found in between the minimum and maximum load to generally be most accurate and consistent. I recently purchased H335 and reloaded about 750 rounds. I made the novice mistake of reloading a ton of rounds without doing a small batch for testing (will not do that again) about one out of 10 rounds I have the primer popping out of the brass. I'm not using once fired brass, this is all new brass purchased. Here's what I'm reloading and the weapon being used.

- Geissele Super Duty 11.5" gun - 5.56 chamber
- New Winchester brass and brass head stamped VLC trimmed to 1.750"
- CCI 5.56 primers
- Sierra 69 gr and 77 gr bthp bullets with a very light crimp
- H335, 24.5 gr. For 69 gr bullet (Lyman 50th Edition recommendations is 22.9 - 25.5
For 77 gr bullets I'm using 24.2 gr (Lyman recommends 22.5 to 25 gr

Is this just too much powder and I need to cut back or is there something I can do to salvage 750 reloaded rounds? Not sure how NATO crimps their primer pockets but is there a commercially available tool to crimp primer pockets once the primer is pressed in?

Sorry for the long question but any help is greatly appreciated.
 
If you’re popping primers you’re going to need to pull them. Primer crimps on NATO rounds are to keep the primers from rattling loose during full auto fire, not for keeping the primers in place in the event of too much pressure.
 
uhhhh, do the primers pop out completely and are gone, or rupture? or just back out?
 
For reference I use a similar charge with 55 grain bullets and a slightly lighter charge with 52 grain match bullets. I tested higher charges but these tested the most accurate.
 
Hodgen and nosler online both show lower powder charges for h335 with 69 and 77 gr bullets, my Lyman 49 confirms your Dara, but that Manuel is older. Have you checked Sierra data for those bullets? It's not uncommon for variation in powder over the years . Looks like Lyman copied older data in the newer manual that's not uncommon either as testing every load would be too expensive. Have you tested any of your reloads and checked for pressure signs, hard extraction, extractor marks?

As for primers you might need to pull them down and repeat the primers to just below flush. To my knowledge there isn't any method to crimp primer pockets outside of the factories, I've never had an issue with primers not being crimped in any of my reloads even after removing factory primer crimps on milspec brass. I don't crimp bullets either for my bolt actions or ar platform rifles.
 
It’s more likely that your port pressure is simply too high for your reciprocating mass weight. If you’re slipping primers slightly proud, not just completely blowing them out of the pocket, it may be indication that your cartridge case is still holding sufficient pressure to grip the chamber while the bolt is moving rearward, making room for the primer to move out - and then the extractor finally brings the cartridge case from the chamber without reseating the primer. Over pressure loads versus early unlock are very different causes.
 
I tend to run 24 gr H335 for my plinking loads.

Same same, with either 55 or 62grn bullets... never an issue with primers backing out, or showing high pressure. I would be more inclined to look at the bolt reciprocation, as Varmint suggests.
 
- Sierra 69 gr and 77 gr bthp bullets with a very light crimp
- H335, 24.5 gr. For 69 gr bullet (Lyman 50th Edition recommendations is 22.9 - 25.5
For 77 gr bullets I'm using 24.2 gr (Lyman recommends 22.5 to 25 gr

From Sierra's 6th edition:

IMG_4978.JPG IMG_4979.JPG

According to Sierra you are over charged for their bullets. Other posts above might be correct, but Sierra provided data for their bullet knowing the bearing surface, etc....

chris
 
Been there done that... many years ago... Get a Chrono and verify EVERYTHING... Don't shoot ammo if there is EVER a question... Get a kinetic bullet puller and go to work... Or a puller... Safety is king when handloading... There are some situations (like headspace) that can cause primers to pop... Again... Verify EVERYTHING... "When in doubt there is no doubt..." (Not my quote... It's from "Ronin"...lol)
 
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According to Sierra you are over charged for their bullets. Other posts above might be correct, but Sierra provided data for their bullet knowing the bearing surface, etc....

Also... and I had to re-read the OP to catch it... he's using LC (military) brass, which may be heavier than commercial brass... I say 'may' because I've seen it both ways in .223/5.56mm. The Sierra data posted above, oddly enough, doesn't list either primer or brass used in testing.
 
Get or borrow an RCBS or Hornady collet type bullet puller - much easier/faster to break down loads.
Very much agree. There is no way I would hammer apart 700 rounds of anything.

Get a collet puller. Once set up and adjusted, you can easily pull 3-4 rounds a minute, while saving all the components.
 
1. Not aware of any primer pocket crimping process for reloads.
2. According to Sierra you are about a grain over max for each of your loads. So, you will need to pull them all down, reduce to a start load/ladder.
3. Did you work these up from the start load? Best practice is to start at the bottom (or at the very least, close to the bottom). Chrono your loads if at all possible to see if you are roughly where you need to be. Velocity will give some indication of pressure and keep you out of trouble.

I have found that chasing velocity rarely gets you the best load. In my experience, around 75% - 80% of published max will provide a good, accurate load without being too hard on your gun. (Of course there are exceptions). Before you do anything else, please read some manuals and get familiar with best practices.
 
Sorry it took me a couple days to see responses. Greatly appreciate all the detailed feedback. It's a rookie mistake I will not make again (until next time anyways).

FYI my COAL is 2.25

Again, thank you all for the quick responses I appreciate it. I did not want to hammer 700 rounds apart so I will look at investing in the tool to pull the bullets.

I look forward to learning more about reloading on here!
 
My Nosler book lists 24.0 gr as MAX for 69 gr bullets and 23.0 gr MAX for 77 gr

Pull those bullets and work up a load.
Starting loads of 22.0 gr and 21.0 gr.
 
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