3" Federal Hull #000 Buckshot possible Loads?

zkennedy137

zkennedy137

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Joined
Mar 3, 2023
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I have tried some different powders and Loads. Here is a list of the loads I have tried and the results. Any Critique or advice is greatly appreciated.


  • All Loads are using Federal 3" Disc-Base Hull I bought from Ballistics Products. Link Here --> link
  • All Loads are primed with Federal 209A (202)
  • #000 Buckshot casted with Lee .360 Buckshot Mold
  • All Loads use Claybuster CB-1114-12 (waa12F114 replacement) wads
  • All Loads shot at about 50 yards this being the first trial run.


  • All Loads Compared to this Factory Round Link Here --> link (this is the closest factory load i could acquire)


List of Powders I Used/Have:

Universal (Hodgdon)

HS-6

Longshot

Titewad

700x (Hodgdon)

Winchester super handicap


Starting Loads for all Powders:


Universal: 25.0gn

HS-6: 29.5gn

Longshot: 24.0gn

Titewad: 21.0gn

700x: 23.0gn

Winchester Super Handicap: 30.0gn


Universal 25.0gn results:

  • Recoil Comparison: Similar to Factory Load
  • Spread Is about 2" - 3" wide not as tight as Factory
  • No Deformation of Crimp of shell
HS-6 25.0gn Results:

  • Recoil Comparison: Less recoil than factory
  • Slightly Random Spread first shot was 1" - 2" and second was 1" - 2.5"
  • small Shell Deformation at Crimp of shell
Longshot 24.0gn Results:

  • "Medium" Recoil compared to Factory A small yet decent amount less.
  • Spread is about 2" wide to 5" height evenly (very wide spread)
  • No shell deformation at Crimp etc.
Titewad 21.0gn Results:

  • High Recoil compared to factory (might be too hot)
  • Spread Tighter than 700x about 1.75" - 2" max
  • Less Deformation than 700x Load
700x 23.0gn Results:

  • Comparable Recoil to Factory Load a bit more but possibly a hotter load than factory.
  • Very Tight spread around 1" - 1.5" spread
  • Shell had some deformation cracking at end of crimp of shell
Winchester Super-Handicap Results:

· 25.0gn Load:

o Recoil a Low-Medium compared to factory Load

o Spread similar to 700x Load about 1” – 2”

o No deformation of shell at crimp

· 26.0gn Load:

o Recoil a slight bit more than Factory Load

o Spread Larger than the 25.0gn load about 2” – 3”

o No deformation of shell at crimp

· 25.2gn Load:

o Recoil similar to 25.0gn Load

o Spread bigger than 25gn Load about 2.5” – 3.5”

o No Deformation of shell at crimp

· 25.4gn Load:

o Heavier Recoil than 25.2gn load and closer to factory

o Spread wider than 25.2gn load about 3.5” – 4”

o No Deformation of shell at crimp

· 25.6gn Load:

o Heavier Recoil than 25.4gn load and closer to factory

o Spread wider than 25.4gn load about 3.5” – 4.5”

o No Deformation of shell at crimp

· 25.8gn Load:

o Heavier Recoil than Factory Load Possibly too hot (I think it Is too hot)

o Spread wider than 25.4gn load about 4” – 5”

· Notes on Super Handicap Load:

o 25gn load seems to be the Max load for accuracy (tighter spread) However the load is Safe up to 25.6gn

General notes:

  • I haven't experimented with 8 point crimp yet only 6 point crimp will run again with 8 point crimp too (no idea if it affects it or not just going to try)
 
How many pieces of shot?

I had a real heavy 3 inch load using that wad with HS-6. It was like 1-7/8oz of shot moving at like 1,310fps.
It was a 100% to the letter book load and hit harder on both ends than any other factory 3'' shell, more like a 3.5 inch shell.
I believe the powder charge was significantly more than 25gr, I think it was in the 36gr range.
I loaded 6 and 8 crimp the same. Saved the 6 crimps for last.
 
I pretty much exclusively load federal hulls with 209's and various wad/payload combinations. What was the distance from engagement line to target (all 50 yards or varied)? What are you hoping to achieve with the round (small or medium game)?

My OO 9 pellet rounds have been with 1-2" spread at 35 feet (max engagement range for home defense). You might want to consider a gas seal with a Teflon wrap and shot media.
 
Akula69 said:
I pretty much exclusively load federal hulls with 209's and various wad/payload combinations. What was the distance from engagement line to target (all 50 yards or varied)? What are you hoping to achieve with the round (small or medium game)?

My OO 9 pellet rounds have been with 1-2" spread at 35 feet (max engagement range for home defense). You might want to consider a gas seal with a Teflon wrap and shot media.
Click to expand...
That was my question. The spread info is important, but the distance is just as important.

And choke.
 
What alloy are you casting?
I use W/W for better loads.
Drop the Claybuster wad.
I’ve found the Winchester Red 1-1/2oz wad superior.
I also prefer the strait tube hulls such as Federal’s.

I don’t load 12ga anymore. Lots of .31” in 2-3/4” in 20ga.
I never found powder to make a great deal of difference. Wads and hard shot make the difference.
I’ve found that choke also is important. Large shot such as OOO often respond better to more open chokes. I’d try Imp Modified, Modified or Improved Cylinder. Full or extra full blow out the patterns.
LongShot is a favorite of mine.
 
N555 said:
How many pieces of shot?

I had a real heavy 3 inch load using that wad with HS-6. It was like 1-7/8oz of shot moving at like 1,310fps.
It was a 100% to the letter book load and hit harder on both ends than any other factory 3'' shell, more like a 3.5 inch shell.
I believe the powder charge was significantly more than 25gr, I think it was in the 36gr range.
I loaded 6 and 8 crimp the same. Saved the 6 crimps for last.
Click to expand...
That load was actually a book load but I started around 10% lower than it was since the load was for #4 shot I think it was just because I’m new to shotshells and didn’t want to have a problem lol
 
GooseGestapo said:
What alloy are you casting?
I use W/W for better loads.
Drop the Claybuster wad.
I’ve found the Winchester Red 1-1/2oz wad superior.
I also prefer the strait tube hulls such as Federal’s.

I don’t load 12ga anymore. Lots of .31” in 2-3/4” in 20ga.
I never found powder to make a great deal of difference. Wads and hard shot make the difference.
I’ve found that choke also is important. Large shot such as OOO often respond better to more open chokes. I’d try Imp Modified, Modified or Improved Cylinder. Full or extra full blow out the patterns.
LongShot is a favorite of mine.
Click to expand...
I may do that if I can ever find them for less than scalping prices this is just one of the 4 I have but I also read a lot and most said they claybuster wad is so similar it’s not even worth worrying about however I am willing to try anything also I have Winchester hulls and fiocchi hulls and federal hulls I only have federal 3” hulls the others are 2 3/4 the federal and fiocchi hulls are new the Winchester super x hulls are used also that makes sense about choke my intent is to use this as a home defense load for my mossberg 500 tactical

the testing was done in my cheap omega p12 which I believe has no choke but I am unsure

also the alloy is made from wheel weights and some lead that was already refined by someone I bought it from as bullet alloy around 5-10% of the alloy I’m using is made with that alloy I bought
 
Akula69 said:
I pretty much exclusively load federal hulls with 209's and various wad/payload combinations. What was the distance from engagement line to target (all 50 yards or varied)? What are you hoping to achieve with the round (small or medium game)?

My OO 9 pellet rounds have been with 1-2" spread at 35 feet (max engagement range for home defense). You might want to consider a gas seal with a Teflon wrap and shot media.
Click to expand...

yes all were shot from the same distance

gas seal I understand I think but I would love more info about it and Teflon wrap? How would I use that? I’m new to loading shot shells and I am always open to help
 
zkennedy137 said:
yes all were shot from the same distance

gas seal I understand I think but I would love more info about it and Teflon wrap? How would I use that? I’m new to loading shot shells and I am always open to help
Click to expand...

Ballistic Products (BP) is a company that not only produces some of the reloading components I use, but they also have numerous publications which may be helpful for you. I get my gas seals and my media there (X12X gas seal and #47 shot media).

If you have ever had the opportunity to cut open a Federal OO round, there will be the powder, which (according to my contact in MN is a blend of whatever they have in the drums at the time - they will not stop production to load a single powder), the Flitecontrol Wad, which is proprietary tube-type wad with reverse slits to disengage the wad gradually in flight as to keep the shot column together, the shot, which is copper coated hard lead, and finally the media, which is designed to keep the shot from banging against each other on the way down the barrel and deforming.

NOTE: Component combinations other than those in reloading manuals can and WILL become dangerous in shot shells. From here onward proceed at your own risk! I NEVER load and fire an untested component combination without sending it to be pressure tested first! I would recommend you stick with proven recipes until you become comfortable in the process. Having said that:

Initially, I tried different powders, measured velocities and patterns, but as Goose Gestapo states, the powder is mainly a factor of pressure and the associated recoil. I have tried to 'recreate' the Flitecontrol wad without success using a solid wad from BP and slitting it manually...the darn thing ends up travelling to the target in a solid mass - useless - so I tried some of the Claybuster wads. The straight-hull wad looked promising, but with 9 OO pellets it bulged the hull to the extent it was difficult to extract from the chamber. I then switched to the gas seal over the powder and a square of PTFE Teflon cut (without overlap) to fit the ID of the hull from gas seal to crimp (some measuring required ;)). I place three layers of three pellets each, then add some #47 shot media (from what I can tell, it is a mix of finely ground plastic and Mica) to the shot and tap it down. In testing with a partial choke I found the Teflon to immediately deform at the choke (one time it was actually hung up on it!), Full choke was better, and the Teflon was found downrange with little dimples from the shot pressed in it uniformly. The shot patterns were as previously described or larger in diameter depending on barrel length.

Some folks will say brand 'X' hulls are better then brand 'F' hulls, but I have not found that to be the case - the caveat being if you use mixed hull types you will need to stock mixed components to load them. Pick a hull and get a small number of components to load them and see what results you get. Then, as you narrow down your choice you will spend less money.
 
Akula69 said:
Ballistic Products (BP) is a company that not only produces some of the reloading components I use, but they also have numerous publications which may be helpful for you. I get my gas seals and my media there (X12X gas seal and #47 shot media).

If you have ever had the opportunity to cut open a Federal OO round, there will be the powder, which (according to my contact in MN is a blend of whatever they have in the drums at the time - they will not stop production to load a single powder), the Flitecontrol Wad, which is proprietary tube-type wad with reverse slits to disengage the wad gradually in flight as to keep the shot column together, the shot, which is copper coated hard lead, and finally the media, which is designed to keep the shot from banging against each other on the way down the barrel and deforming.

NOTE: Component combinations other than those in reloading manuals can and WILL become dangerous in shot shells. From here onward proceed at your own risk! I NEVER load and fire an untested component combination without sending it to be pressure tested first! I would recommend you stick with proven recipes until you become comfortable in the process. Having said that:

Initially, I tried different powders, measured velocities and patterns, but as Goose Gestapo states, the powder is mainly a factor of pressure and the associated recoil. I have tried to 'recreate' the Flitecontrol wad without success using a solid wad from BP and slitting it manually...the darn thing ends up travelling to the target in a solid mass - useless - so I tried some of the Claybuster wads. The straight-hull wad looked promising, but with 9 OO pellets it bulged the hull to the extent it was difficult to extract from the chamber. I then switched to the gas seal over the powder and a square of PTFE Teflon cut (without overlap) to fit the ID of the hull from gas seal to crimp (some measuring required ;)). I place three layers of three pellets each, then add some #47 shot media (from what I can tell, it is a mix of finely ground plastic and Mica) to the shot and tap it down. In testing with a partial choke I found the Teflon to immediately deform at the choke (one time it was actually hung up on it!), Full choke was better, and the Teflon was found downrange with little dimples from the shot pressed in it uniformly. The shot patterns were as previously described or larger in diameter depending on barrel length.

Some folks will say brand 'X' hulls are better then brand 'F' hulls, but I have not found that to be the case - the caveat being if you use mixed hull types you will need to stock mixed components to load them. Pick a hull and get a small number of components to load them and see what results you get. Then, as you narrow down your choice you will spend less money.
Click to expand...
Where can we send a shotgun shell to be pressure tested?
 
Akula69 said:
Ballistic Products (BP) is a company that not only produces some of the reloading components I use, but they also have numerous publications which may be helpful for you. I get my gas seals and my media there (X12X gas seal and #47 shot media).

If you have ever had the opportunity to cut open a Federal OO round, there will be the powder, which (according to my contact in MN is a blend of whatever they have in the drums at the time - they will not stop production to load a single powder), the Flitecontrol Wad, which is proprietary tube-type wad with reverse slits to disengage the wad gradually in flight as to keep the shot column together, the shot, which is copper coated hard lead, and finally the media, which is designed to keep the shot from banging against each other on the way down the barrel and deforming.

NOTE: Component combinations other than those in reloading manuals can and WILL become dangerous in shot shells. From here onward proceed at your own risk! I NEVER load and fire an untested component combination without sending it to be pressure tested first! I would recommend you stick with proven recipes until you become comfortable in the process. Having said that:

Initially, I tried different powders, measured velocities and patterns, but as Goose Gestapo states, the powder is mainly a factor of pressure and the associated recoil. I have tried to 'recreate' the Flitecontrol wad without success using a solid wad from BP and slitting it manually...the darn thing ends up travelling to the target in a solid mass - useless - so I tried some of the Claybuster wads. The straight-hull wad looked promising, but with 9 OO pellets it bulged the hull to the extent it was difficult to extract from the chamber. I then switched to the gas seal over the powder and a square of PTFE Teflon cut (without overlap) to fit the ID of the hull from gas seal to crimp (some measuring required ;)). I place three layers of three pellets each, then add some #47 shot media (from what I can tell, it is a mix of finely ground plastic and Mica) to the shot and tap it down. In testing with a partial choke I found the Teflon to immediately deform at the choke (one time it was actually hung up on it!), Full choke was better, and the Teflon was found downrange with little dimples from the shot pressed in it uniformly. The shot patterns were as previously described or larger in diameter depending on barrel length.

Some folks will say brand 'X' hulls are better then brand 'F' hulls, but I have not found that to be the case - the caveat being if you use mixed hull types you will need to stock mixed components to load them. Pick a hull and get a small number of components to load them and see what results you get. Then, as you narrow down your choice you will spend less money.
Click to expand...


Thank you for the insight I never expected to actually hear from a federal employee etc as far as the load of a factory shell

also the shells I have been loading have ejected pretty well tbh I mean not perfect but well

I also have 2 3/4 Winchester “super x hulls” but I only say it is super x because that’s what they were advertised as I am using straight wall hulls for this load

If anyone thinks it will help or change the spread etc I do have cci 209m primers and fiocchi 616(209) primers that I can try
 
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