30-30 load development and casual observations
- Thread starter AJC1
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AJC1
Member
I've asked but maybe a good compromise would be the Sierra jhp bullet. Should be able to drive that baby from mild to wild. Coyotes would not be happy. Haven't been able to get any to play with....
.30 Cal 125 Gr. HP/FN (30-30) - Sierra Bullets
In rifles, this bullet was designed for the venerable 30-30 Winchester cartridge, and features a jacket tailored specifically to 30-30 velocities. The cannelure on each bullet is precisely located to provide the proper over-all-length (OAL) for fast, trouble-free feeding. The bullet weight...
www.sierrabullets.com
I'm going to load up some H335/165 MBC loads today to test on Friday. I couldn't get the Sharpie marker thing to work on my targets, so I'll have to use one of the multiple bullseye ones with some added stickers so I can see them from 100 yards. I tried on coated lead, but not on copper jacketed. I bet it works fine there.
Bearded Phil
Member
Got some of the homecast 30-30 bullets with new Starline cases out for the first time today. I've only been sitting on these new cases since spring last year... and the coated casts since late winter/early spring.... but I finally got there!
My focus faltered a few times I know but I like what I see so far. There's some promise in some of these groups.
Sized .311", home punched alum gas checks, Hitek coated. IMR 4198 at shown charges. OAL 2.46" and taper crimped with a Redding 30-30 taper crimp die.
Had 2 in that first 5 shot string of 18.9gr that if they were any more on top of each other I'd have never known where the following one went, haha.
My focus faltered a few times I know but I like what I see so far. There's some promise in some of these groups.
Sized .311", home punched alum gas checks, Hitek coated. IMR 4198 at shown charges. OAL 2.46" and taper crimped with a Redding 30-30 taper crimp die.
Had 2 in that first 5 shot string of 18.9gr that if they were any more on top of each other I'd have never known where the following one went, haha.
That's some promising work there. How do you make home-punched aluminum gas checks? I've not ventured down the gas check road because they make cast bullets more expensive to the point jacketed bullets are worth it.
Which reminds me, I talked to someone yesterday who knows how to make paper patched bullets. He says its not as hard as it sounds at first. 30-30 is my experimental cartridge, so as soon as I get these 165 grain bullets to shoot, I'm moving toward paper patching.
Which reminds me, I talked to someone yesterday who knows how to make paper patched bullets. He says its not as hard as it sounds at first. 30-30 is my experimental cartridge, so as soon as I get these 165 grain bullets to shoot, I'm moving toward paper patching.
Hooda Thunkit
Member
I have been giving paper patching some sidelong glances ever since I first heard about it some years ago.
Sort of like that girl in high school that one wants to talk to, but doesn't know how to approach...
Sort of like that girl in high school that one wants to talk to, but doesn't know how to approach...
Bearded Phil
Member
I bought a gas check maker from Matteson's Machine Shop, they have a website but it's much easier to get in touch with them by their Ebay page.
The GC die cost me $110 + $9 shipping I believe. A 4" x 50' roll of .014" alum flashing was another $25ish? dollars at Ace Hardware.
So there will be some time until the cost of the die is recouped by the savings of making my own checks, but that roll of flashing should punch out over 5k checks. I've run the math on it based how many I can get from a 1" wide slit, I think on the 4" wide for .30 cal it was 16 per 1" slit.
So for 50' of roll that's around 600ea 1" wide slits, 16ea per 1" slit... actually it's more like 9.5K checks. I have all the checks I need, lol. And dont have to worry about them being out of stock.
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AJC1
Member
Tested ppu capacity after yesterday's range trip. So the ranking is
1. Rp 46.4
2. Ppu 45.8
3. Fed 45.5
1. Rp 46.4
2. Ppu 45.8
3. Fed 45.5
mkl
Member
Speaking of a 30-30 plinker or rabbit load:
If anyone has some 7.62 x 25mm "tuna cans" of this ammo in their stash, I found a great use for it. Primers were dead in about 1/3 of the 1200 or so cartridges that came in my can. Note the 7.62 designation.
I put a micrometer on the bullet and it registered .308 inches; FMJ construction.
Long story short, I pulled the bullets, saved the powder, and tossed the Berdan cases in the trash.
Worked up a 30-30 load using the 85 grain FMJ bullets and the powder that came in the cases [started at the same weight that was in the cases and worked up until I had a clean barrel but still very low pressure for a rifle].
I shot them in a single-shot H&R rifle. Velocity for the 85 grain FMJ bullet around 2000 fps.
So if you happen to have any worthless 7.62 x 25mm ammo, there is a possible use.
If anyone has some 7.62 x 25mm "tuna cans" of this ammo in their stash, I found a great use for it. Primers were dead in about 1/3 of the 1200 or so cartridges that came in my can. Note the 7.62 designation.
I put a micrometer on the bullet and it registered .308 inches; FMJ construction.
Long story short, I pulled the bullets, saved the powder, and tossed the Berdan cases in the trash.
Worked up a 30-30 load using the 85 grain FMJ bullets and the powder that came in the cases [started at the same weight that was in the cases and worked up until I had a clean barrel but still very low pressure for a rifle].
I shot them in a single-shot H&R rifle. Velocity for the 85 grain FMJ bullet around 2000 fps.
So if you happen to have any worthless 7.62 x 25mm ammo, there is a possible use.
So, you fired 10 rounds in a rush at that target with open sights and made that group. Practice, trying different style targets, different ways of supporting the rifle might be ok instead of load jumping. That's a good start.
So I have a good load for the 165 grain MBC bullet using Winchester LRP and H335. Somewhere around 16.1 grains and 1450 fps shot the group at 6 o’clock in the orange. The others kinda spread all over with the lower charges.
Now to find alternatives to each. Options are good. 165 grain MBC WT#4 with W231 and LPP crossed over with 135 grain Acme bullets with H335 and LRP.
Now to find alternatives to each. Options are good. 165 grain MBC WT#4 with W231 and LPP crossed over with 135 grain Acme bullets with H335 and LRP.
I didn’t measure the target yesterday like I normally do. Those last four shots went into 7/8”. Now I HAVE to go back and test those 160 grain FTX loads again. Isn’t there some sort of issue with switching from cast to jacketed, or is it the other way around? Either way, a good scrub is in order.
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AJC1
Member
I've herd that going from one to another isn't good. I clean after each trip and don't swap during.... don't know if it really is a thing or how much...
I’ll have to shoot a few of the current batch at 50 yards and see if it’s worth the trouble. With the current zero for cast, the FTX load isn’t even on paper at 100 yards. The zero is about perfect for the 135 grain Acme/W231 load.
If I keep switching back and forth I’m going to have to leave a scope on it, and a higher quality one is probably in order. For cast loads, this Simmons fixed 4x rimfire scope works pretty good. However a 2-7x32 would be nice too.
If I keep switching back and forth I’m going to have to leave a scope on it, and a higher quality one is probably in order. For cast loads, this Simmons fixed 4x rimfire scope works pretty good. However a 2-7x32 would be nice too.
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AJC1
Member
Documenting adjustments for a Williams peep or a scope would basically be the same. A good scope like a nightforce will repeat and track, the Williams will do the same for the fraction of the cost. I like peeps on levers, but the way is in the heart of the owner operater of every gun...
Just saw this. Never heard of Reloader 11. I’ve only been reloading 3 years so it was probably before my time.
Charlie98
Member
I would have to go back into my notes from the '90's... but I think I used RL11 for the .30-30 at one time, too. I was trying my first powder comparo... likely RL11 and H322, and possibly one other. I never really found a good load... with the Speer 170grn HotCor bullet. I switched to the 170grn Winchester SilverTip, sold as a component back in the day, and my groups shrunk by half. I thought I was Inspector Clouseau sleuthing it out...
Charlie98
Member
I stand corrected... I tried RL7. This shows how dumb I was about powders back in the day, my test powders with the 170grn Silvertip in my brother's Marlin 336 were... H322, H335, RL7... (so far, so good...) IMR4895 (well, OK...) and H4831 (what was I thinking???)
Hooda Thunkit
Member
As far as I'm concerned, a 4895 powder is as close to "one size fits all" as any rifle powder out there.
Like in that hot sauce commercial - you can put that stuff in anything! (well, within reason).
I saw a few of these in Cabelas yesterday. Due to current financial constraints I didn’t get them though. If I come across them again I’ll snag a box. I’d probably shoot them with these low charges of H335 I’ve been running lately. If 2400 weren’t made of dried unicorn tears and silver dust, that would also be a good candidate.
Charlie98
Member
Other good powders besides 2400 would be IMR4227, or even one of the 4198's, which is what I use. I think there are even low velocity recipes with Unique and RedDot.
I've said before that I consider IMR4895 to be the Unique of rifle powders... it very nearly works everywhere. I like IMR4895... at one time I had 32# of it... but I've found as I work into cartridges, I find a specific powder that works better for a specific purpose, and I leave IMR4895 behind.
