32 WCF

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Feb 10, 2024
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Anyone reloading 32 WCF? Load data about impossibe it seems. I have a Remington Model 25 that I've been itchin to shoot. I was fortunate enough to get 200 rds of new Starline brass from DiamondK and 500 120grn lead projectiles from Graff and sons (pricey but thats what it costs to shoot oddball stuff) thinking 9.5 grns. of Accurate 5744 ( because I have some and it works good for my other vintage loads and I read on another site that someone else is using). Anyone have any ideas? Yes, someone stripped of blueing and unfortunately in California you cannot use the proper blueing chemicals. If anyone knows a reasonable shop out of state I would like to get a proper blueing done.
 

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Anyone reloading 32 WCF? Load data about impossibe it seems. I have a Remington Model 25 that I've been itchin to shoot. I was fortunate enough to get 200 rds of new Starline brass from DiamondK and 500 120grn lead projectiles from Graff and sons (pricey but thats what it costs to shoot oddball stuff) thinking 9.5 grns. of Accurate 5744 ( because I have some and it works good for my other vintage loads and I read on another site that someone else is using). Anyone have any ideas? Yes, someone stripped of blueing and unfortunately in California you cannot use the proper blueing chemicals. If anyone knows a reasonable shop out of state I would like to get a proper blueing done.
Nice shooter!

For rifle and handgun I use two different loads: Colts Official Police and S&W Hand Ejector both get 5.5gr of Unique under a Meisters 115gr WFN lubed lead (Blue Carnuba) w/ Starline, R-P, or W-W brass, and a CCI 500 primer. I no longer have a .32-20 rifle but I have had a couple, including a .308” Contender barrel. For my old Stevens 44-1/2 Favorite I used 10gr of 2400 under a 115gr JSP Remington hunting bullet. The bore on my rifle was a sewer pipe so I was pretty much limited to jacketed. I have not tried Accurate 5744 but have heard it’s a lot like IMR 4227 which I used with good success in an older S&W M&P with a 6” barrel. That gun was really tight for its age!

Hope that helps.
 
Anyone reloading 32 WCF? Load data about impossibe it seems. I have a Remington Model 25 that I've been itchin to shoot. I was fortunate enough to get 200 rds of new Starline brass from DiamondK and 500 120grn lead projectiles from Graff and sons (pricey but thats what it costs to shoot oddball stuff) thinking 9.5 grns. of Accurate 5744 ( because I have some and it works good for my other vintage loads and I read on another site that someone else is using). Anyone have any ideas? Yes, someone stripped of blueing and unfortunately in California you cannot use the proper blueing chemicals. If anyone knows a reasonable shop out of state I would like to get a proper blueing done.
On the other subject of refinishing the metal, instead of blueing try carding the metal. It’s an old fashioned technique where the metal is cleaned and completely degreased then wiped with a light cloth and vinegar. This will bring out a light layer of rust. The rust is scraped off with a brass or bronze card - a flattened .303 British or 8mm Mauser cartridge case works well. Flatten the mouth of the case into a screwdriver shape and scrape off the surface rust. Then oil the metal with a natural oil - linseed oil was popular for its dual use as a wood finish - and scrape again. You’re not going to use a lot of force. Let repetition and speed do the work. Short quick strokes are the way. Go over the same areas four or five times. After the second go with the oil and brass scraper you should see a deep, dark brown-blue color start to take to the surface. At this point, oil a piece of 0000 bronze wool with a mineral oil (of your choice - there’s lots out there) and rub every piece until you feel no more rough spots.

The result is stunning and it looks like one of those old school hand rubbed tooling finishes that used to be common.
 
I would highly recommend not refinishing your model 25. And older classic rifle like the various Remington pumps just never look right after a reblue. Lettering gets blurred and just shiny which just looks out of place. It’s an older piece and probably had an honest like and that shows.
IMG_2042.jpeg
The 2 bottom rifles are model 25’s, both are 25-20. Both are quite used and show it. The bottom carbine was picked up in one of the many Alaskan villages and had been a boat gun for most of its life. It had a hose clamp around the wrist holding the stock together. Friend of mine an amateur gunsmith repaired that and offered it to me for a reasonable price.
The second from bottom is a rifle length model 25 that is a little cleaner. Both are tight with good bores. Both great shooters. I personally wouldn’t touch either one.
The third from the bottom is a Remington Model 12 22LR, scoped rifle is a model 141 in 35 Remington. Top rifle is a Colt Lighting 44-40.
Unless you have someone like Turnbull do a quality restoration, I’d save the money and go have fun shooting an honest gun.
 
If you're bound and determined to refinish that rifle, look into slow rust bluing. It uses very little in the way of chemicals and leaves a durable attractive finish that compliments older firearms.
 
Anyone reloading 32 WCF? Load data about impossibe it seems. I have a Remington Model 25 that I've been itchin to shoot. I was fortunate enough to get 200 rds of new Starline brass from DiamondK and 500 120grn lead projectiles from Graff and sons (pricey but thats what it costs to shoot oddball stuff) thinking 9.5 grns. of Accurate 5744 ( because I have some and it works good for my other vintage loads and I read on another site that someone else is using). Anyone have any ideas? Yes, someone stripped of blueing and unfortunately in California you cannot use the proper blueing chemicals. If anyone knows a reasonable shop out of state I would like to get a proper blueing done.
Sure that's not a .32 Remington?
 
Sure that's not a .32 Remington?
The Op's rifle is clearly a Remington model 25.

A Remington model 14 chambered for 32 Remington would have a spiraled magazine tube with the loading port is on the bottom.
 
I have an 1890 vintage Winchester 1873 chambered in 32-20. It was refinished before I bought the rifle. It looks great. I had to replace the magazine spring it now shoots great.

I also have a 1920-ish vintage S&W k-frame size 32-20 revolver. It, also, was nickel plated before I bought the gun. It is a good companion for the 1873.

It is the owner’s choice to do a refinishing job on a firearm. It may not add to the economical value of the firearm. But, if done correctly, it will be a good looker and a good shooter.

I load pistol safe loads with Accurate 5744 and they shoot well in the 1873. I’m sure the rifle could be loaded hotter.
 
Nice shooter!

For rifle and handgun I use two different loads: Colts Official Police and S&W Hand Ejector both get 5.5gr of Unique under a Meisters 115gr WFN lubed lead (Blue Carnuba) w/ Starline, R-P, or W-W brass, and a CCI 500 primer. I no longer have a .32-20 rifle but I have had a couple, including a .308” Contender barrel. For my old Stevens 44-1/2 Favorite I used 10gr of 2400 under a 115gr JSP Remington hunting bullet. The bore on my rifle was a sewer pipe so I was pretty much limited to jacketed. I have not tried Accurate 5744 but have heard it’s a lot like IMR 4227 which I used with good success in an older S&W M&P with a 6” barrel. That gun was really tight for its age!

Hope that helps.
Thanks. I don't know date of manufacturer. Just have serial number 4997 with an "AA" above on lower receiver.
 
On the other subject of refinishing the metal, instead of blueing try carding the metal. It’s an old fashioned technique where the metal is cleaned and completely degreased then wiped with a light cloth and vinegar. This will bring out a light layer of rust. The rust is scraped off with a brass or bronze card - a flattened .303 British or 8mm Mauser cartridge case works well. Flatten the mouth of the case into a screwdriver shape and scrape off the surface rust. Then oil the metal with a natural oil - linseed oil was popular for its dual use as a wood finish - and scrape again. You’re not going to use a lot of force. Let repetition and speed do the work. Short quick strokes are the way. Go over the same areas four or five times. After the second go with the oil and brass scraper you should see a deep, dark brown-blue color start to take to the surface. At this point, oil a piece of 0000 bronze wool with a mineral oil (of your choice - there’s lots out there) and rub every piece until you feel no more rough spots.

The result is stunning and it looks like one of those old school hand rubbed tooling finishes that used to be common.
Is that the same as "rust bluing"? Looks cool if it is
 
I would highly recommend not refinishing your model 25. And older classic rifle like the various Remington pumps just never look right after a reblue. Lettering gets blurred and just shiny which just looks out of place. It’s an older piece and probably had an honest like and that shows.
View attachment 1206436
The 2 bottom rifles are model 25’s, both are 25-20. Both are quite used and show it. The bottom carbine was picked up in one of the many Alaskan villages and had been a boat gun for most of its life. It had a hose clamp around the wrist holding the stock together. Friend of mine an amateur gunsmith repaired that and offered it to me for a reasonable price.
The second from bottom is a rifle length model 25 that is a little cleaner. Both are tight with good bores. Both great shooters. I personally wouldn’t touch either one.
The third from the bottom is a Remington Model 12 22LR, scoped rifle is a model 141 in 35 Remington. Top rifle is a Colt Lighting 44-40.
Unless you have someone like Turnbull do a quality restoration, I’d save the money and go have fun shooting an honest gun.
Thanks. Are they good shooters?
 
If you're bound and determined to refinish that rifle, look into slow rust bluing. It uses very little in the way of chemicals and leaves a durable attractive finish that compliments older firearms.
I'm on the fence on the blueing. Part of me kinda likes the look, other part just thinks it looks like some bubba dud it.
 
Is that the same as "rust bluing"? Looks cool if it is
Carding and rust bluing are similar techniques but different. The copper in the bronze/brass sticks to the steel and acts like plating. It’s an old school method. I have heard some gunsmiths refer to it as browning but that’s also a chemical reaction like bluing. I learned carding from an expat British armorer.
 
Anyone reloading 32 WCF? Load data about impossibe it seems. I have a Remington Model 25 that I've been itchin to shoot. I was fortunate enough to get 200 rds of new Starline brass from DiamondK and 500 120grn lead projectiles from Graff and sons (pricey but thats what it costs to shoot oddball stuff) thinking 9.5 grns. of Accurate 5744 ( because I have some and it works good for my other vintage loads and I read on another site that someone else is using). Anyone have any ideas? Yes, someone stripped of blueing and unfortunately in California you cannot use the proper blueing chemicals. If anyone knows a reasonable shop out of state I would like to get a proper blueing done.
The last printed edition of the Accurate Arms manual has a few. Load Data has quite a bit. Lots of older manuals have a bit. Check both the handgun and rifle sections, and look for 32-20 or 32 wCF, as different manuals list it differently.

The real trick is bullet diameter. I prefer .314 diameter bullets (for cast), they are hard to find (for a reasonable cost, and hi-tek coated). Most have pretty good luck with .313 which are easy to find. My next batch is going to be using the T&B Bullets 100 RNFP, which is a hi-tek coated .313 bullet. It works very well in repeaters and handguns.
 
Thanks. Are they good shooters?
Well the 25-20 brass for reloading is very hard to come by. But I did manage to come up with a couple boxes of factory loads. So all I’ve done with the two model 25’s is roll some cans from 25 yards. But I’ve been shooting the Remington model 12 since I was a kid back in the days when guns could be taken to school for show and tell. More recently the model 141 has been a fun one, starting this summer I’ll be working up cast loads for both the 25-20 and the 35 Remington.
But all Remington pumps are fun shooters. The model 25 is a nice slim easy carry rifle, just a slightly scaled up version of the model 12.
I haven’t done any bench shooting yet, only target shooting has been with the model 12 22LR and it’s minute of Grouse and squirrel head out to 20 or 25 yards.
These little rifles are great fun.
 
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