.357 Mag carbine: optimal barrel length?

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AStone

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In a later post, I'll explain why I'm asking this question.

But for now, I'll just ask this:

Ballistically speaking (independent of sight radius),
is there an optimal barrel length for a .357 Mag carbine?

We've had discussions in the past about
optimal barrel lengths for a .22 LR rifle.
Opinions vary between 16" and longer.
(Some argue that the velocity suffers
with barrels over a certain length.)

But what about .357 Mag in a carbine?

The carbine I have most in mind is
a Marlin 1894C with Ballard rifling.

Thx.

Nem
 
Bump because I'd be interested in seeing chronograph results from .357 carbines with different barrel lengths.

I can tell you that a Marlin 1894c which, IIRC, has an 18" tube is one dandy little rifle, light and fast handling. A friend has one fitted with a Williams Firesight up front and a Williams peep in the back.
 
I don't think a long barrel would have a detrimental effect on ballistics unless it was a LOOOOOONG barrel. Any reasonably long barrel will continue to increase velocity. I don't have any data, but I would guess well over 30" would be where this would begin. I am primarily speaking about slower powders of course, a negative impact would be seen sooner with faster powders, but it would still take a very long barrel. With any factory produced barrel, you won't see the length that would begin to slow the bullet.

Leverguns, and pistol calibers in particilar, are really more of a balance of ballistics and handling. If a 30" barrel was superior ballistically, it would kind of defeat the purpose of using the riflle, IMO. They are short because they are handy.
 
since they develop about the same or slightly higher pressures as rimfires, I am guessing here, i would say an 17 to 20 inch bbl, is all you would need.
 
To me a 357 in a rifle/carbine = handy

Handy = light and small, less likely to get left behind. A 16-18" barrel would best represent that niche. With a screw driver the stock could be removed and the rifle could be stowed inside of a backpack or duffle. I might lean toward the 18" for the 2 or 3 more cartridges it will hold without much of a penalty for the additional length.

The ammo is lightweight yet capable. No need to make a (risky) headshot to humanely harvest a deer. Quality ammo through the boiler room will suffice. Handloading could expand its versatility even more but even factory ammo is comparatively inexpensive.

Paired with a pistol it would simplify ammo needs. Just last week I took off for the range with a rifle and no rifle ammo... Luckily I had plenty for the pistol... :banghead: It wasn't the first time I did that.

While it certainly wouldn't be my first choice for a hunting rifle I sure wouldn't feel overly handicapped by it. It would be perfect for trips that a rifle isn't likely to be used but would be nice to have around should an unexpected shooting opportunity arise.
 
Optimum ballistic barrel length is declining pressure on one side against friction between bullet and barrel on the other.

.22 high vels with the exception of the hyper 30 grainers are pretty much identical so one ideal barrel length would cover all of them.

When you ask about .357, which 357? Hardcast? Plated? Jacketed? 125 grain? 180? WWB? Buffalo Bore max loads? All of these will give different answers.
 
When you ask about .357, which 357? Hardcast? Plated? Jacketed? 125 grain? 180? WWB? Buffalo Bore max loads? All of these will give different answers.
That's an interesting question, Aspade. I hope we can explore it further. I don't have any good answers yet to your question, but it will help me further shape this question ... and the answer to it.

Here's a bit more background on the question. This is long, so if you're short on time, but interested in the optimal barrel length question, you can skip it. It doesn't have a large bearing on the answer to the question of optimal barrel length anyway.

Mo's post above hit most closely to my motivations for considering this. Emphasis is mine.

To me a 357 in a rifle/carbine = handy

Handy = light and small, less likely to get left behind. A 16-18" barrel would best represent that niche. With a screw driver the stock could be removed and the rifle could be stowed inside of a backpack or duffle. <snip> Paired with a pistol it would simplify ammo needs. <snip> While it certainly wouldn't be my first choice for a hunting rifle I sure wouldn't feel overly handicapped by it. It would be perfect for trips that a rifle isn't likely to be used but would be nice to have around should an unexpected shooting opportunity arise.
I currently own a Marlin 336 in .30-30, and plan to use it for deer hunting, hopefully this year. I also partially "own" (it's still in layaway) a SW 65 in .357 (3" barrel). (I bought it to replace a 686 with 4" barrel, which I found to be too long and unwieldy for my needs ... see below.)

I just returned from a 4 day camping trip to the place where I hope to spend the month of September, and hopefully all of summer 2008: in the great American outback at the edge of the Great Basin desert, where the sagebrush meets the Ponderosa pines. The area is very rugged. The camp site is primitive, and miles off the beaten path, yet with enough logging roads coursing through the area to insure that at least a few humans come through, some of whom are ... um, shall we say, not the kind of folks I'd prefer to hang out with. :scrutiny:

My camps in that area are not set up at my truck, but rather about a quarter to a third of a mile from the truck. I pack in all my gear to "base camp". (I prefer not to sleep at the truck, but like to keep a buffer should unexpected visitors stop by in the night looking to plunder. I'm still close enough to the truck to watch over it - the truck's alarm would alert me to trouble, but I'm tucked away safely, not visible from the truck - yet it's still close enough to walk out to restock supplies (food and professional tools) from the truck.

Further, I do a LOT of hiking in the area - it's tied to what I do professionally. I carry a small overnight backpack with minimalist survival gear. (Over the next few years, I anticipate similar projects in several places in the west.) While I feel confident that the 65 will meet my needs for up close SD, it won't do for that deer that I might stumble on during deer season while I'm out doing my professional work. And, I'd like the extra confidence that a rifle would loan to SD.

I could carry the 336, but that's extra ammo, and a pound heavier than an 1894C, not to mention larger (mostly longer, at 38.25").

So, finally to my reasoning: packing in with 65 and 1894C could be an ideal combo for this situation: both shoot .357M/.38spl, so there's no need for two kinds of ammo. When I'm actually hunting - that is, a day or afternoon where I'm specifically seeking deer - I'll carry the .30-30. But for those times that I'm focused more on professional stuff, the 65/1894C combo could be just the ticket. (Dave Markowitz has been nudging me in that direction for quite a while; I'm finally beginning to "get it". ;) )

But of course, although already "one dandy little rifle, light and fast handling", an 1894C would be potentially even more so - and easier for me to portage with pack - with a 16" barrel (total length 33.5") than with it's stock 18.5" barrel (total length 36"). It just strikes me as being one mean little beast.

(I'm planning to cut down my Marlin 39A (.22LR) from 24" to 16" or 18" for the same reasons: easier portability, faster handling ... that's been discussed elsewhere and I won't repeat it here ...)

But, if cutting an 1894C down is going to have a significant negative influence on ballistic performance,
I'd think long and hard before doing it.

OK, that's my reasoning behind this project.

Thanks for opinions, and even more so for any pages about ballistic comparisons (chrono data) for .357 Mag carbines with barrels in the 16 - 18.5" range with various types of ammo.

Nem
 
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I've been thinking about getting a nice 3" .357 to match with an 1894c, but I'm not too sure about the common ammo angle, especially since I would be handloading. I imagine what I would do for a 3" barrel would be different from what I would go for in a rifle barrel (type of powder, construction of bullet). Having a mess of plain and nickled brass, I could just put one type of load in one and the other in the other, I suppose. However, don't let me talk you out of an 1894c, because they are one of the all time great little rifles!

As for cutting it down, I think only you and the chrono would ever know the difference between 16 and 18", power-wise.
 
I don't know what barrell length provides the most velocity with a certain given load, but I do know that the .357 in a rifle makes MASSIVE gains over the same load in a revolver. A minimum of an extra 300fps on up to around 500 and even almost 600 fps gains are seen. For example, Buffalo Bore has .357 ammo that when fired from an 18.5" barrell truly equals a .30-30 in both weight and initial velocity. So does Double Tap ammo, whom I prefer, and several others.

Me personally, I just picked up a 16.5" .357 rifle. I doubt very much that I will ever notice the very petty and minor difference in velocity between the two. However, I do notice the shorter length being more handy and lighter a touch.

I would definitely heratily recommend a 16" to 18.5 inch .357 rifle. I would not go loner due to weight and length concerns.

tsh77769
 
If you get a Marlin, you have two choices in barrel length. 18.5" or 18 1/2".:p

Buffalo Bore gets some serious velocity (for a straigh-wall pistol round) from the Marlin. If it's not optimal, it's close enough.:)

180gr. Hard Cast = 1851 fps
170gr. JHC = 1860 fps
158gr. Speer Uni Core = 2153 fps
125gr. Speer Uni Core = 2298 fps

http://www.buffalobore.com/ammunition/default.htm#357
 
I would guess the ballistic difference between 16 & 18" to be minimal, especially with the burn rates of pistol powders.

The shorter barrel will have a slight advantage for transport, weight and handling in tight quarters (like a tent or vehicle).

Quickness in handling is subjective. Comparing my 39TDS with a 16.5" barrel to my 39A Mountie with a 20" barrel the quickness of handling is minute at best. Both come to the shoulder and point naturally which is a asset most leverguns share.

Another small consideration is while hunting (gun in hand) the Mountie (fully loaded) balances at the rear of the forend. The TDS hangs most naturally on the receiver. On a cool morning the Mountie is more comfortable to carry with an gloveless hand on wood rather than metal. During a warm afternoon the wood protects the metal from sweat.

In my 336's the handling difference between a 20" & 24" barrel is more noticeable. Neither is slow handling but the 20" does feel quicker, though the 24" seems to hang on the target better. Surprisingly I am finding I like the longer barrels more and more even though I've always been attracted to carbine length rifles.

Same can be said for my 1895's. The Guide Gun does feel quicker than my Cowboy (26") though the Cowboy does NOT feel slow. In the field I did notice that I did tap the barrel on trees and brush more often with the Cowboy. Last year while crawling around stalking Elk with the GG I don't recall ever hanging up on any limbs or brush.

Another advantage a longer barrel will afford is extra magazine capacity. I'm not sure what the 16" 1894 will hold but the 18" holds nine 357's or 10 38 specials. (TDS 11 vs Mountie 15; GG 4 vs Cowboy 9). It does and weight (and stability?) though.

18" (birch) is available at Big 5 for under $400 brand spankin' new. :D
 
If you get a Marlin, you have two choices in barrel length. 18.5" or 18 1/2".:p
<grins>

Yeah, A'Bear, I know stock, that's all there is in Marlin.

But I'm considering cutting it down (like my 39A will get cut down). I've got a fine smith here who will cut, crown and adjust magazine as needed for not much money.

I just picked up a 16.5" .357 rifle.
TSH, what rifle did you get?

I'm probably going to go with the Marlin since I've already got two of theirs, and love both. But I'm not dead set on it if there's another .357 lever out there with a shorter barrel.

Thanks, folks. This is helpful.

Nem
 
Mo,

All good points. Thx. The balance issue is particularly important.

I haven't even really handled an 1894C yet. Well, I did shoot a couple of rnds through a friend's rifle at the range a while back, but wasn't considering buying one then, and was consumed by a sighting issue with my 336 at the time ...so wasn't paying close attention.

I'll go look at one this week, even though it'll be a while before I'm able to pick one up.
 
In this article at Leverguns.com, Paco Kelly fired some stout .357 loads through a 20" Marlin and a couple of 24" leverguns.

http://leverguns.com/articles/paco/357_magnum_and_the_literature.htm

He reported a very slight velocity gain from the longer barrels -- average of 80 fps faster in the 24" barrels over the 20".

So you're probably giving up little with a 16" to 18.5" carbine barrel, and the little .357 lever carbines are so darn handy!

One of these days I'm going to put a decent red dot sight on my Marlin .357 just for fun plinking. My other future project is to get a Marlin 30-30, lop down the barrel to 16.5", and put on a more serious, "combat-type" red dot. Voila, hillbilly assault rifle.

To my mind, leverguns and red dots go together.
 
I have a Rossi 92 with a 16" barrel. A max load in Speer's 10th edition is listed as 15.9 grains of 2400 with a 158 JHP at 1335 fps. I've chronographed that load at 1950 fps from my Rossi.
 
I have different motivations than you but I recently ordered a tapered 21" .357 Magnum barrel for my G2 Contender. I'm hoping to get 2000fps with a 158gr XTP. I figure I'll have a pretty handy little carbine with the 21" barrel and I can always cut it back later if I feel so compelled. My goal is a 50-150 yard coyote and blacktail rifle in a handy walking-around package for the brushy terrain that I frequent

I'm hoping that the 21" tube and the right powder will make for a pretty quiet combination as well. I should get the barrel in the next 4-5 weeks and I'm really looking forward to playing around with it. I shoot several 2"-4" .357 revolvers as well but I generally load 148-158gr hard casts in these for the range and the field. 135gr Speer Short Barrel loads go in 'em for carry.
 
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I have a quantum theory of gun lengths.

There seem to be certain classes of length that are more important than exact length.

There's about an inch difference between a 10/22 and a Mini-14, but I can't tell the difference unless I hold them next to each other, line them up and measure.

The Marlin 1894C is shorter than a standard 10/22, by 7/8"

I think that there's a length class around 36". There's another one around 40", and another around 44".

I don't think you're going to notice much difference between a 42.5" gun and a 44.5" gun or a 46" gun. They're all really frustrating in the thick brush. Drop to around 40", and you'll notice the difference. You'll have a much more convenient rifle, lighter and quicker, though it may be less stable offhand, and you'll lose some velocity. Drop to around 36", and you'll notice again. Now you have a really handy, light brush gun, though you lose a bit more stability and velocity, as well as sight radius with irons.

However, I don't think that a 16.5" barrel makes an already-short gun so much handier than the 18.5" barrel that it's worth a custom job, more muzzle blast, etc. But the Marlin at 36" is at a perfect length for "handiness". Approach 40", and why not get a .35 Remington instead? Cut it down shorter, and you gain little in terms of "handy".

On the other hand, the 16" (or so) version of the Puma is neat, and I'd surely consider it. I wouldn't, however, get the 20" version and have it custom cut to 18.5". The 16" will do quite nicely.

Note that the same length classes are common in the AR platform.

Just some musings I had when handling some rifles. Maybe I'm wrong.
 
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Today, I handled an 1894C at my local gunshop.
For the first time, I was paying attention to it.

All I can say is,
love at first sight.

What a sweet, sweet rifle:
Feels good.
Short action.
Handles like a dream.
Nice balance, both carrying (on receiver) and pointing.

I'm not sure now that I'd cut it down.
I'm not sure I'd need to.

What a sweet, sweet rifle.

I'm going to buy one.
 
When you ask about .357, which 357?
Hardcast? Plated? Jacketed? 125 grain? 180? WWB? Buffalo Bore max loads?
All of these will give different answers.
Now that I've decided to buy one, this question becomes paramount.

Here's a useful essay on rnds for the 1894.
Could have benefited from a summary table -
it's information is dense -
but offers a heads up for those of us
deciding which rnd to shoot.

I liked this sentence a lot.

Loaded with suitable ammo (e.g. Cor-Bon, Federal 125s, or even the FBI .38 load)
the Marlin carbine is arguably THE definitive home-defense gun.
Hmm. Reading statements like that could make the 870 go up for sale,
given that I'm semi-nomadic, lever/wheel oriented and trying to lighten my load ...
 
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