.357 sig

[meanmrmustard]

How much does it cost to start from scratch? I mean, brass, bullets, powder, primers, press, dies,etc? I've never done it before, but I want to reload this round, as factory loads cost a small fortune. Suggestions need to have prices in tow so I know what I need. Thanks for any help.

 

[clocker]

I just went through this in the last week, so hope it helps.
Hornady dies: $65
Lee FCD (optional): $15
Range brass (600): $20
Wilson gage: $20

I already had the powder, primers and press, so the sunk cost of getting into the caliber was ~$150 with shipping and tax since I had to go through multiple sources for the parts.

Recurring costs per 1k
9mm 124gn fp: $89
1lb powder: $20
SP primers: $25
Nets out at ~$130/k

I just about choked at the $37/50 round box that the local range was selling. If you need to get a press and other accessories, your sunk costs in equipment can increase rapidly, so shop around and think about spreading that cost among different calibers.

 

[littlebob3]

It just happens that I am thinking of selling some of my stuff that purchased and have not used or dont need at this time.

1) LEE Turret $100.00
2) Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure $35.00
3) NEW Lee Double Disk Kit $8.00
4) New Never used 356Sig-dillon dies $110.00
5) QTY 680 NEW Starline-357Sig-Brass $80.00
6) Qty 600 never opened Speer Bullets 357 Sig, 125 Grain Total Metal Jacket $100.00
7) Scale New GEMPRO-250 $135.00

So it looks like you could start and make your first 600 for under $600.

I am trying to make up my mind if I really want to sell the stuff or not…

Littlebob

 

[Certaindeaf]

$40 for fifty adds up pretty quick. I'm sure you can reload for that cartridge at around $8 per fifty using premium bullets.

 

[littlebob3]

Here is a link to calculator the real cost of reloading.

http://ammoguide.com/
Look on the left side of Reloading Cost Calculator

A good FMJ 357 Sig bullet will be your biggest cost.
If you uase Unique powder you will be using 7.5 grains.

So a box of 50 will cost you $11.85 give or take a little... and that is without the cost of the brass

littlebob3

 

[Certaindeaf]

^
I think you did that wrong.

 

[Josh45]

Primers = $30-$40 per 1k
Powder = $20-25 per 1 lbs
Range brass = FREE if you can, If not what ever your range charges you or you can buy from someone on here for a modest price.
Bullets = $50-$70 per 500
Dies = $35-$45 LEE Carbide Dies
Press = $50-$100 Lee Press ( Single Stage or Turret )
Powder Funnel = $5-$10
Powder Measure = $30-$150
Scale = $25 - $100
Loading Trays = $10 - $25


The idea behind all this is simple. How much do you want to spend? LEE equipment is usually cheaper then most other mfrg. Such as RCBS, Hornady or Dillion. All presses are interchangeable with each mfrg dies except certain Dillion presses. Never skimp on a scale. Electronic or beam.

Loading trays help to keep things apart and a little bit more simplified. Plus, You will have somewhere to put charged cases without turning and spilling them all over the place. Oh and don't forget a set of calipers and a bullet puller. These two items are super important. Do not start without them.

Your can get things underway for about $500 give or take a few. You can always get a kit and then get the other things together.

 

[dap22]

I went through the .357 sig jump through the hoop hoopla a while back. It took me a couple weeks but I decided to bite the bullet and go with Dillon .357 sig dies. In retrospect I'm very glad I did because I've loaded a couple thousand rounds now without a glitch. I notice that "bob3" has some unused Dillon dies up for grabs a few posts up. That's quite a bit less than I paid for mine through Dillon by the way.

I've used Unique (7.5G) and it's been just fine. I also have used AA-9 which uses more powder (in the 12.2 to 12.5 range) and to be honest I prefer Unique. It burns clean with that load and it costs less.

Components-wise, sig brass isn't hard to find these days and not a whole lot more expensive than 9 or 40. I'd invest in a case gage (Wilson). For bullets, I've used Montana Gold's .357 Sig specific bullets since they're basically the same as 9mm but a tad longer which is needed for a necked cartridge.

I love .357 Sig......think it's a hoot to shoot and the ballistics are favorable. Good luck!!

 

[Peter M. Eick]

I bought several die sets before I settled on a dillon sizer, hornady expander, rcbs seat and fcd collet crimp.

Having now loaded and fired over 10,000 rounds out of this combination, I have no complaints. The costs of the dies and learning are well amortized.

 

[Swampman]

I WISH Lee made carbide .357 SIG dies, but unfortunately, Dillon is the only firm that I'm aware of that's currently making them and the cost is over $130 for a three die set. I reload for .357 SIG using a steel Lee three die set, but since I hate having to lube pistol cases, I size in two steps. First I run the cases through a carbide 10 mm die, this sizes the case body. I then run them, still without lube, into the steel .357 SIG die to resize the neck and shoulder area. I haven't had any issues so far with galling or scratched case necks, but I did polish the interior of the die pretty well when I first got it and I use Nu Finish car polish to clean my cases, so maybe that helps as well.
I've heard of people using a disassembled .40 S&W Lee factory crimp die as a "push through" sizing die to remove "Glock bulge" from cases, but I haven't tried it myself. That should also allow you to complete the sizing operation without any lube.
You didn't mention in your post what kind of pistol you'll be loading for, but assuming that it has a barrel with cut rifling, you might consider bullet casting to really cut your loading costs. You can get a Lee mold for less than $20, a sizing die and lube for $18 and a ladle for $4. Then just buy a hot plate and pot at a garage sale, scrounge up some lead and assuming you already have cases, you can reload a thousand rounds for less than 60 bucks!

 

[Walkalong]

If you shop carefully, you can get everything you need to reload one caliber for $100 to $150, excluding components. After that you need some brass (Once fired or range brass is fine and is cheaper. If you pick it up yourself it is free.) Buy some bullets, a pound of powder that is popular for that caliber, and you are ready to start. These 50 item lists to get started make me shake my head. All you need are the very basics to get started.

Start small and slow, and go from there. The sky is the limit, but so is the enjoyment.

9MM, .40, .45 ACP? If it is one of these, heck, I'll send you some brass to get started. After a few range trips, and some scrounging, you'll have enough of all three to load plenty. I do not find as much .38 Spl, but I have found enough that I have not had to buy any.

 

[Lonely Raven]

Just FYI - The Dillion "carbide" dies are just a sleeve of carbide, it does nothing for the necked portion. What Swampman does with the 10mm/40S&W carbide die to size the side walls is effectively the same thing but considerably cheaper. I've been using this method since about 2000.

 

[WaywardSon]

Certaindeaf has it right. I made up some .357 Sig loads the other day & my costs were as follows:

Figuring once fired brass from Midway at $39.99/500 and 5 loadings per case.
Hornady XTP 124 gr.
11.0 gr. Blue Dot
Primer of choice

Brass- 1.6 cents
Bullet- .22 cents
Powder- 3.6 cents
Primer- 3 cents
Total- 30.2 cents per round

That is $7.55 per box of 25 which the LGS get what for... $25-$30 bucks?

Since the bullet is by far the most expensive component, if you want to shoot this caliber on the cheap...buy bulk 9mm in the flavor of choice. Or get really cheap and cast your own.

My .02........John

BTW-The quote function is not working for me here. What the heck does "token has expired" mean?

 

[griff383]

I just ran a batch for my boss and it turned out to be around $10.50 per 50, and that is with relatively current pricing for components only (i.e. equipment not included). Once you shoot the brass and pick it back up it only gets cheaper.

 

[kutter]

This round was the reason I started reloading, I am not sure about some of the cost of others, I use AA#9, Tula small pistol primers, and Berry's plated bullets:

Powder .025
Primer .02
Bullet .09
Brass .012 I figure this at 5 reloads and I lose about 20% each time I shoot, what can I say, my eyes are going bad
Total .147/round

That works out to $7.35 per 50, if my math is half right. About the best price I have found is Canned Heat at .31/round for a 1000. So after 1000 rounds you have gone a long way towards paying for the equipment you had to purchase to reload. Over a couple of weekends I went through about 1700 rounds so I had payed for everything I needed to purchase to get started and it was all gravy from there.

Unlike some others, I do not use carbide, I have never had a problem using One Shot lube for the cases. I just think of it as a small rifle cartridge.

 

[Bob72]

I just bought 125 grain, Sig Bullets (also works with 9mm) from Montana gold for $133.00 per thousand. These are good quality jacketed hollow-points. I am now using their bullets for both my 9mm and 357 Sig. I am getting 1000 cases for about $32.00. Powder and primers are about as stated in previous msgs. Be careful with this round. It loads about like a small rifle round. but...is sure fun to shoot.

 

[littlebob3]

You say you are looking for the cost to reload 357 Sig.
Here are the real cost, if you you buy supplys at Cabela's and/or Midwayusa.

CCi 500 qty 1000 - $29.99
Powder Unique - $22.99
Starline cases 357 sig qty 1,000 - $155.00
Speer Bullets 357 Sig 125 Grain Total Metal Jacket qty 600 - $104.00

Now put that in the Reloading Cost Calculator at Ammoguide.com

and you will see the real cost of reloading a sig 357.

Your cost, 20 reloads - $ 4.74
Your cost, 50 reloads $ 11.85
Your cost, 100 reloads $ 23.70
Your cost, 250 reloads $ 59.26
Your cost, 500 reloads $ 118.52


Total cost/reload - - - $ 0.24
Powder cost/reload - -$ 0.02
Bullet cost/reload - -- $ 0.17
Primer cost/reload - - $ 0.03
Brass cost/reload - - -$ 0.01

Littlebob3

 

[unknwn]

Just FYI - The Dillion "carbide" dies are just a sleeve of carbide, it does nothing for the necked portion. What Swampman does with the 10mm/40S&W carbide die to size the side walls is effectively the same thing but considerably cheaper. I've been using this method since about 2000.

I purchased the Dillon .357SIG sizing die specifically because it has two distinct carbide sizing rings. It is the ONLY die in this caliber that resizes the neck with a carbide sizing ring that eliminates the need for lubricating the case for a single step resize.
They are also the only producer of the die that is suitable for use with nickled cases.
The problem with them is the decapping pin is available in two different sizes, and they don't tell you that until -or- unless you have a problem.
I solved that by buying Lyman stepped decapping pins at less than $3.00 per 10 @ MidwayUSA rather than the almost $3.00 per each that Dillon insisted their's were worth (NOT).
Speer cases use a .057" nominal flash hole, and unless you have a suitable sized decapping pin you will break the larger size. I also found that I really liked the spring loaded decapping design that Dillon uses, you can tell when things are going exactly right versus discovering unusable cases during the recapping stage of case preparation.
Not only are the decapping pins from Dillon overpriced, but the sizing die is priced most dearly, but there IS a reason for that, and it's because thier die does THE exceptional job for this caliber. I'm glad I spent the differance for the sizing die only.
Hornady New Dimension seating die and the Lee FCD (collet type) rounded out the die selection.