.357 Stainless under 40oz

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T-Ray

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I'm lookin for a revolver. Want it in .357mag so i can start with .38spl and move to .357. I really want it less than 40oz in weight. .38spl would be ok too, if i can't get one in 357. Minimum barrel length 4". Not sure exactly what size frame i want, will go to bass pro this week and find out what fits me, and possibly answer my own question there. I know s&w has some that fit the bill in j frame, but don't know if they're too small. It'll be for general plinking and possibly rabbits and as a sidearm for deer, hog, dove... Like i said, i'm goin to bass pro this week and will also determine exactly what weight i can handle. Does anyone besides s&w have a 357 less than 40oz with a 4" barrel or bigger?

Preferrably stainless w/ rubber grip

Price range would be hopefully under 600 closer to 500 but can go a little over if need be. hopefully i can find one that fits me good then order off internet for a better price.


I think that about covers it, i'll edit if i remeber somethin important i forgot.

it will not be used for cc.
 
You can get a Ruger or a Taurus without a hole in the sideframe for well within your budget. Go here and look around. I just got a Taurus 605, and am very happy, but I only wanted a 3" barrel.
http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/index.php
If I had wanted a 4" barrel, I would have gotten a used Smith 65 or a Ruger Service Six. No finer 4" 357/38s ever made, but I wouldn't put a steady diet of heavy 357s thru the Smith.
 
This might not fit your criteria exactly, but I like the looks of the S&W Scandium 386's for those reasons. Good tools for serious work.
 
what are ya'll's (?) thoughts on charter arms revolvers? I was lookin at the .357 with the 4" bbl. Would it shoot .38spl also?(probably a stupid question) I kinda (really) like that the msrp is below $500. I have heard many people reccommend them, but no real good or bad and why posts.
 
TRay,

The general consensus is that the two best 4" .357s out there are the Ruger GP-100, and the S&W 686. Both clock in at about 40 ounces. 40 ounces is pretty much the average weight of many "full size" handguns that are going to give the best durability and recoil characteristics. In your price range, I see NO reason to buy other than a Ruger or S&W and stay with a high-end, US made gun. If you want to save a few dollars, go used, but don't go down in quality.

You can search threads here to get opinions on both. Excellent used guns will run you $350 to $425, new ones more, but still within your budget.

Other used guns you might want to consider would be a an older Ruger Security Six, or A S&W 19/66 (19 is the blue model, 66 the stainless one) or a Model 28 (Highway Patrolman). All are widely available in 4" barrels, weigh 35 to 41 ozs, and will last a few lifetimes. Another "new" model S&W in this category is the 620, which I have no experience with but hear good things about.

Whether you go Ruger or S&W is up to you and your confessor. This is the subject of many silly arguments. Both are well made, well designed, and well supported by gunsmiths, the aftermarket, and the factory. Rugers are made a little more "Economy" style, S&Ws generally with more finish and forged steel instead of cast. The S&W costs 15 or 20% more on average because of that, but both approaches work. Both Ruger and S&W are a cut above any other major competitor on the market.
 
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Buddy of mine has Taurus .357 Total Titanium that is electric blue. It has about a 3 inch barrel (+ or - 1 inch) with ports and the ribber grips. That thing is so light that you have to weight it down so it doesn't float off! Kicks a lil bit, but the ribber grips and porting make it not so bad. Don't think they make this one anymore, but they are out there.
 
yup..... exactly what kamerer said.
"the two best 4" .357s out there are the Ruger GP-100, and the S&W 686. Both clock in at about 40 ounces. 40 ounces is pretty much the average weight of many "full size" handguns that are going to give the best durability and recoil characteristics. In your price range, I see NO reason to buy other than a Ruger or S&W and stay with a high-end, US made gun.
 
The Taurus Tracker 627. Personally, I own the stainless steel model with the 4" barrel.
Had mine for close to 10 years now with a couple thousand rounds through it.
Nice gun...weight is 36 ounces.
 
Ruger, Ruger, Ruger!! The GP100 is a beautiful gun, I almost brought one home from the gun shop today....it was only $400 in like new condition. The equivalent Smith and Wesson will cost twice as much and not be as strong.
 
The equivalent Smith and Wesson will cost twice as much and not be as strong.
Click to expand...

Well, now that the chorus has chimed in, I think we'll have to take off the gloves.

A similar S&W 686 will cost you $25 to $50 more, and be equally strong and better finished. There is this fetish that thicker, cast steel from ruger is stronger than slightly less forged steel used in S&W construction. Forged steel and cast are not equally strong dimensionally, and this leads many who overlook the metallurgy to unfounded conclusions.
 
A similar S&W 686 will cost you $25 to $50 more, and be equally strong and better finished.
Click to expand...

You couldn't be more wrong.
Smithandwesson.com 686 = $853
Ruger.com GP100 = $660

The Smith is always going to be a lot more than $25-50 more in the same condition. Don't even try and call a S&W "equally strong", we already had that arguement, and S&W lost big time. They may have their own special features, strength is NOT one of them. Especially since the OP wants to shoot magnums, Ruger is the stronger choice. It's not about the thickness or type of steel, it's about the fact that Rugers were designed for Magnum loads from the beginning, while S&W revolvers are still mainly based on early 1900s designs.

Edit: In a price range of "hopefully under 600 closer to 500", Ruger is an infinately better choice.
 
BigBlock,
All your arguments about the GP100 and S&W Magnum revolvers went out the window when S&W introduced the L frame revolver. While both the Ruger GP100 and S&W M686 are great revolvers the S&W's fit & finish is superior and don't forget about the Smith's superior trigger.

I find no fault with anyone who buys a Ruger but please stop with the "much stronger" bit. (BTW, I own a M686 and a Service-Six)

T-Ray,
Go to the store and handle both the GP100 and M686. When you decide which feels better in your hand buy that one and you won't be making a mistake with either. You will have to buy either used if you want to keep your budget as is. It is true the Ruger will cost you less.
 
I find no fault with anyone who buys a Ruger but please stop with the "much stronger" bit.
Click to expand...
And then you try to claim the smith has a better trigger. :rolleyes: The fact is Rugers ARE stronger, especially if you are considering lots of magnum loads, (that's where the smith lockwork fails) and those are all important facts to point out to anyone who is new to .357's.

I don't care which he gets, but keep your facts straight, and your advice accurate. Smiths are nice for looking pretty and sleeping in your pocket, Rugers are for taking out shooting and blowing things up 'till your trigger finger falls off. Take your pick. Personally, I'm in the market for both.
 
ya, i kinda forgot about ruger, cause i was originally looking for a d/a .22, and smith & tauras were about the only brands that had them, and there's no question there. I'm goin to bass pro tonight (more than likely) and will hopefully handle both the ruger & the smith (if they have them...). I hear lots of complaints about the smith's internal lock...

Does ruger put the locks in their guns?

WOW.
i just did a quick search and was kinda, but not all that much, suprised to find that the rugers were a good 3-$400 less than the smith.:eek: The ruger also has a really nice lookin grip. That red wood just looks good in the rubber


:eek:Just looked again, and it looks like they don't make them with the wood inserts anymore :eek: I still like the fact that i can get a nib 6" ruger for under $500. Can't say that about the smith...
 
In actuall fact, you won't go wrong with either. Both are great in .357M.
Ruger changed to Hogue grips, but you can still get the 'old' style grips from Midway and go the Ruger forum to find some really unique inserts.
 
I would mention that the lighter a revolver is, the more you will "feel" the power fo the ammunition, and not in a good way.

Lightweight revolvers are known for abusing the person shooting them.

Just in case you didn't know..
 
I have two 4" GP100's if that tells you anything.

Edited to add: As a previous poster mentioned, if you like the wood in rubber look of the grips, you can pick up an original Lett grip (that's who made them for Ruger til they went out of business) from midway or from a gunshow (I see them for 15-20 bucks all the time). Then visit rugerforum.net and check out the work of a poster named "41 Magnum" He does great stuff and in a variety of woods. I have two sets of his grip panels in cocobolo.
 
I've got this 5" S&W 60. It's a very cool and unique gun IMO. I bought it for my girlfriend to shoot with .38's. The girl is gone but the gun is still with me. It's great if it fits your hands. I have pretty big hands and it's a bit small in the grip for me. It came with beautiful wood grips but they are tiny. I bought a large pair of wood S&W target grips which are o.k. but my favorite are rubber hogues that cover the backstrap. All give a full three finger hold. A 30 oz 357 with a 5" barrel is a lot of power in a very totable package. It's very thin also as are all J frames. I had a custom Mernickle cross draw holster made for it and it's perfect for a backup when hunting with a longarm or just hiking or camping with a knife strongside. It kicks with full house 357's which is all I shoot in it but it's over the twice the weight of a J frame scandium.

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...d=10001&productId=14756&langId=-1&isFirearm=Y
 
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