38 spl shot shells

[joneb]

I loaded up a few of these today.
I used a 38 spl shell casing and reamed the inside of the case mouth, and used it to cookie cut some card board wads.
I loaded 2.7gr of Bullseye and inserted a wad, on top of that went about 78gr of #8 shot approx 55 pellets, that was capped off with another wad and the case was crimped.
Here are the results at 8 feet;





This load proved effective against a pop can, but I have my doubts on how it do against rattle snake skin. I guess more powder = a bit less shot and maybe more velocity ?
Any help with this endeavour would be welcome.

thanks

 

[Floppy_D]

Hey jibjab,
I went the same road a few years ago, but with a 357 case. I used an even 3.0 grains of Bullseye, double wad, and then filled the case near the top with #8 shot, finished with a single wad. It was a load similar to yours; I knew I was in safe load territory, so I didn't bother with weighing the shot. I had punctures on the front of a soup can at 7 feet, which was good enough for me. A hand tossed clay or egg broke at 15 or so feet, so I felt I had a good snake load. I spent the fifty or so loads I made on eggs, clays and cans, and never had any real reason to pick on the snakes. They'd have done the trick, though.

 

[joneb]

What did you put over the top card wad to seal it?

I used a thin corrugated piece of cardboard it has a green shinny film on one side and untreated on the other, I saturated the untreated side with wax.
I did not wax seal the assembled round, as I'm just messin around with this.

 

[joneb]

I knew I was in safe load territory, so I didn't bother with weighing the shot.

Me neither

 

[ArchAngelCD]

A drop or two of Elmer's Glue works well over the cardboard wad as a sealer.
Looks like a good job...

 

[joneb]

A drop or two of Elmer's Glue works well over the cardboard wad as a sealer.

Thanks

 

[GP100man]

or waterproof carpenters glue

 

[Walkalong]

I used plastic "keepers" over the shot. I used a sharpened case to cut them out of things like milk jug tops. Just roll crimp over them.

 

[straitnate14]

So are you seating the first wad all the way down on top of the powder? and how loud are these shells? This is very interesting I think I'm going to give it a try.

 

[joneb]

are you seating the first wad all the way down on top of the powder? and how loud are these shells?

I seated the 1st wad about a 1/16 th of a inch above the powder. I put a lines on a dowel showing the empty case, charged case and wad thickness depths. I'd like to play around a little with location of the 1st wad and it relationship to the charge.

I test fired these in the garage and I had my ear protection on, so I not sure how loud but I wouldn't try it with out ear and eye protection.

I used a countersink to sharpen the case mouth, the diameter of the wad can be adjusted by using a fired or sized case.

The shot passed through one standard and one heavy piece of card board and then hit 1/2" plywood, most of the impressions in the plywood were consistent with a few sticking and a few leaving only a slight dent.

 

[Walkalong]

I always pushed the "wad" (two cardboard disks) all the way down on top of the powder. No reason not to and it gives more room for shot.

 

[GP100man]

I tamp mine down tite !!!

I even use a screw that fits my depriming die with the head milled to fit down in the cases.

Here`s a full cyl. length shotshell I made up using 357Max brass it`ll hold almost twice the load of the capsules, I`ve posted this pic many times before with the steps to form the brass.

 

[joneb]

Here`s a full cyl. length shotshell I made up using 357Max brass it`ll hold almost twice the load of the capsules

I thought of using 357 mag brass and necking it down for .38spl, but you are way ahead of me
Would you care to share some details ?

 

[Walkalong]

I have done that with .444 brass (modified) in .44 Spl to get more shot in them, but if you load it too hot it backs out and locks up the gun. Bummer.

 

[BADUNAME37]

Wow, this is interesting as I had wanted some shot loads for my 500 Magnum, and this proves that it can be worked out safely when working up the load just like for a bullet - watching for signs of overpressure. The 500 would most likely give me the option of using a larger shot, say, #6 or so!

In fact, I have 200 cases that have been sitting on my reloading bench in trays that are all primed, ready for powder.

Now I am glad I have been putting off loading the 200 cases as I just may try this route!

 

[GP100man]

I take a 357 Max case & anneal it so it does`nt spring back (normal annealing practice

is just a low glow of the brass in a low lite room) then size it in a 357 sizer , prime,

then run it to just below the shoulder in a .222 rem die (check fit each case , longer

cases will bump the shoulder & it`ll look like a roll crimp before chambering) charge the

case & tamp the card down , fill with ya shot ( I have a alox mix that I lube my shot

with but not needed really unless ya plan to shoot a bunch of em) another card , roll

the crimp on a little by bumping the shoulder of the sizer ,then seal with carpenters glue.

Let it dry completely before firing so ya don`t smear glue down the tube !!!

Generally 15ft is max qwik kill range on the normal vermin with #9 shot , larger shot will kill father but patterns will be sparcer.

Shorter barrels usually pattern better than longer, less time for the rifling to get the load spinnin.

Balance power with ya powder , usually more pressure does nothing but open patterns &800-900fps is enuff to do what needs to be done .

I have some full length 44s for my Redhawk ,but not really much gained over a standard 44 card over loading .

As far as the 357 Mag case in a 38spc , the steps involved in forming the case is`nt worth gain , being the 357 is only .135 longer, your only gaining `bout 2 layers of #9 shot !

 

[oneounceload]

For 38, I just always used the Speer shot capsules - dip them in a bowl of shot, place the plastic cap on the end, seat over the powder and away you go - no muss, no fuss

 

[GP100man]

Shot capsules

oneounceload

I agree the shot capsules are no muss no fuss but under certain circumstances (some a little hairy & scary) the capsules walk out or break & tie up the revolver , that`s what promted me to R&D the card overs !!

If ya use em on the "first up" cyl it`s fine ,but if ya have to go by it then come back after some heavy hunting loads it gets a little iffy !

Just for the record I started with factory ,then loaded my own capsules with varying degrees of crimp with three different kinds of brass ,all trimmed for crimp uniformity.

The best thing to do is clean the necks of yellow brass with a stainless steel brush so it can "grip" the capsule better , a touch of glue of sorts is iffy at best also .

 

[oneounceload]

GP - I'm wondering if a little dab of something like clear nail polish around the case mouth and capsule might hold them in better with a little more crimp. ??????

 

[Walkalong]

the capsules walk out or break & tie up the revolver

They certainly can. They are pretty reliable, but I have had it happen as well.

The home made ones with a good roll crimp over a stiff plastic keeper will not do that. (Properly made of course. They need to be packed well and not loose inside)

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I haven't had the Speer capsules walk out on my but I do apply a roll crimp to them. I have broken a few trying to get the best crimp without breaking but sometimes I start out with just a little too much crimp! LOL I was thinking of using a .38 Special Taper Crimp Die on them if I could find a used one on the cheep.

 

[Mule]

Instead of cardboard wads I use gas checks. One firmly seated on the powder. The second inverted over the shot and crimped.

I have another load I play with in 38 cases. Powder, gas check, 70gr fine shot, .360 round ball seated and crimped.

 

[GP100man]

oneounceload, I`ve often wanted to put a good flare on a case then a dab of fingernail polish in the flare ,then crimp over it before it dried but have`nt done it .

After drying good it should break up & be wiped out by the plastic plug !!

Mule , I`ve found that GCs leave a hole in the pattern & a round ball up front , while being a perfect vermin round defeats the purpose of a "shot" load .

AACD , I`ve been waitin on a taper die to come up on the WTS boards for a while now , I`d hate to buy a new 1 just to try !!

 

[Mule]

GP100man,

In my limited experience, gas checks don't disturb the pattern any more than homemade cardboard or plastic wads. The gas checks leave noteable full caliber holes in paper targets.

The roundball/shot load is for serious vermin control. Rats, dillos, possums...
The terminal results are positive.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

AACD , I`ve been waitin on a taper die to come up on the WTS boards for a while now , I`d hate to buy a new 1 just to try !!

I agree...