Soonerpesek
Member
I assumed from this he intends to load .357 cases, so no carbon ring worries, or did I miss something?
A different fellow posed the question about the carbon ring...post #10...
I assumed from this he intends to load .357 cases, so no carbon ring worries, or did I miss something?
Another poster asked what a carbon ring was.I assumed from this he intends to load .357 cases, so no carbon ring worries, or did I miss something?
Just a point for future reference and to avoid confusionLooking to buy my own 357/38 S&W
I figured the carbon ring might be eliminated, making cleaner easier.
I was also speculating that since the bullet wouldn't have to jump that little gap from a .38Spec case to the barrel it might be more accurate? probably a tiny effect anyway.
How are the bronze brushes hurting anything? I believe this idea is in part of the cleaning issue. I do understand that some people prefer chemical over mechanical cleaners but leading has been cleaned by mechanical scrubbing with a chore boy since forever.I got the impression the OP has an excess of .357 Mag brass. If so I don't blame him for wanting to load it as a .38 Special.
As for carbon rings, I have never ever had a problem, I clean my guns after every range trip. While I know you really don't want to use a bronze brush that much on the cylinder holes what I did was buy nylon brushes which are very easy on gun parts but still clean well.
Me too...Exactly my experience.
.38 S&W Special or as most abbreviate to .38 Special. 38 S&W (without the Special) is a different animal altogether.Looking to buy my own 357/38 S&W and i have a LOT of .357 brass. Does anyone know if there are advantages/disadvantages to loading .357 as target ammo?
Swimming against the tide I like the lee factory crimp die. I run a 38/357 rcbs set but crimp with the lee so I dont have to change my adjustment on the seating die. I have always seated and crimped in separate steps. The sizing ring almost never is a factor and I load quite a bit of lead. I appreciate a lot of people hate it, and it's my singular experience with the fcd.Be sure to get .38Spl/.357mag dies.
A .357mag seater/crimper die is too deep internally to crimp a .38spl die.
I found that out in 1977 when I turned 21 and bought myself a new S&W M28.
My RCBS .357mag dies wouldn’t crimp .38 cases. Still have the die set , box, ect!
I didn't say a bronze brush would hurt anything. I said some people are concerned that cleaning that much might be harmful. That's why I suggested a nylon brush.How are the bronze brushes hurting anything? I believe this idea is in part of the cleaning issue. I do understand that some people prefer chemical over mechanical cleaners but leading has been cleaned by mechanical scrubbing with a chore boy since forever.
The 38 case has been used to shoot some bullets in 38/357s that are to long in a 357 case. Some bullets like the 38156 has crimp groves for both. If you like wadcuters they have many versions, and a few have real crimp groves before the last driving band so flush seating isnt required. The factory uses a canalure on the case to prevent movement which I have no capacity to replicate. I prefer a place to roll crimp.
Which validates their unfounded consern with a substandard solution.I didn't say a bronze brush would hurt anything. I said some people are concerned that cleaning that much might be harmful. That's why I suggested a nylon brush.
Nope. Different chambers completely. The shorter cases of that chambers dimensions are .38Long Colt and .38Short Colt. You’re way better off buying .38Spl brass.hi everyone, flexible here (the original poster) thanks for all the advice and i just thought of a new wrinkle on this question.
Since i have a lot of .357 brass and only a handful of Federal .38 Special would it make sense to buy 38 S&W brass? Any advantages? what about dies?
thanks
Now the guy that started making stainless bore brushes had to be in cahoots with gun manufacturers.... what a terrible idea.Yep, .38 S&W cases won't go into most .38 Spl and .357 Mag cylinders.
Nylon is fairly abrasive, and a million or so cleanings would wear the cylinder, I'd rather use bronze brushes to clean chambers/throats on cylinders, and I do. I don't shoot short brass in any guns, but I do use a bronze brush to clean occasionally. I have brass keys that my hands have worn terribly over two plus decades, my Square D key got so worn from hands/jingling in pocket/unlocking&locking panels I had to replace it.
So, soft things can wear hard things, but it takes a lot of reps, and I don't think we need to worry about cleaning chambers with bronze brushes even when motorized unless we are way over doing it for decades. Cylinder steel is fairly hard compared to brushes, bronze or nylon, so unless you are really heavy handed, and are really overdoing the cleaning and clean too often, I wouldn't worry too much.
I don't know about all these other folks but I really have to TRY to make "carbon rings" that thick enough to feel, let alone stop a round from chambering. I had a 66-3 for years that was kind of my go-to heavy wadcutter gun. It has nice sights and a Hogue grip that just felt good. I ran probably close to a thousand 148gr. BNWC through that gun (yeah, I know, that's before breakfast warm-up for some of y'all) loaded up with 5.5gr. of Unique. That's a nice 25 yard load, BTW, but nothing wrist shattering. At least as many Speer 148gr. HBWC - coated with that gooey resin or whatever it is they use - with 3.5gr. of Bullseye - again, that's a nice load with a little more bark than the typical 2.8gr. No "carbon rings". Ever.Yep, .38 S&W cases won't go into most .38 Spl and .357 Mag cylinders.
Nylon is fairly abrasive, and a million or so cleanings would wear the cylinder, I'd rather use bronze brushes to clean chambers/throats on cylinders, and I do. I don't shoot short brass in any guns, but I do use a bronze brush to clean occasionally. I have brass keys that my hands have worn terribly over two plus decades, my Square D key got so worn from hands/jingling in pocket/unlocking&locking panels I had to replace it.
So, soft things can wear hard things, but it takes a lot of reps, and I don't think we need to worry about cleaning chambers with bronze brushes even when motorized unless we are way over doing it for decades. Cylinder steel is fairly hard compared to brushes, bronze or nylon, so unless you are really heavy handed, and are really overdoing the cleaning and clean too often, I wouldn't worry too much.