45/70 worth it?

300 gr8 hornady with 5744,4895 or benchmark for 1900 fps is what I settled on.
I looked in my barrel and it didn't say 1 in 20. Where are those fellas seeing that??
 
The Miroku's are fine guns, IF you are not bothered by the rebounding hammer and tang safety that makes it a bit problematic to mount a tang sight.

Luckily, both of my Brownings were older Mirokus... without the bouncing hammer or safety. I'm not sure when... or if... the Brownings ever had them, but I know the Winchesters always did. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong on that.)

I've looked at the new Winchesters, they are quite different than the Brownings. At the time, the standard finish recipe for Browning was glossy blue and shiny finished wood, or the Grade V white/gold receivers... all the Miroku repos of that era are finished that way, I believe. The Winchesters I've looked at are much nicer... to include deep bluing, case coloring in some cases, and nicer wood. Given what the old Brownings are going for, for the same money, or a little more, you can get a better looking Winchester... unfortunately, with the safety. Or get a Turnbull.

Pedersoli makes the Uberti 1886.

I didn't know that.

I have a Pedersoli 1885... it's a decent rifle, for sure. The finish isn't quite as hardy as I'd like, but it's serviceable. The wood is meh.

Pedersoli makes an 1886 in .45-70... along with other cartridges, including the .348WCF, in what they call the 86/71. It's a good looking rifle, for sure.
 
300 gr8 hornady with 5744,4895 or benchmark for 1900 fps is what I settled on.
I looked in my barrel and it didn't say 1 in 20. Where are those fellas seeing that??
They measure it. Take your cleaning rod and wrap a patch around the jag. Use enough patch that it is a tight fit in the bore. Put a cartridge in the chamber (or a non primed cartridge with a bullet in it for the squeamish). Now, push the patch down the bore until you hit the bullet. Mark the rod so you can see it. Withdraw the patch. The rod should rotate. When you see your mark on the bottom of the rod, measure the distance from the muzzle to the mark. Multiply times two and that is how long it takes your rifling to make one complete turn. If your barrel is long enough, you can continue retracting the patch until the rod makes on full turn, based on your barrel length. When your mark is once again TDC, measure from bore to mark. That is the length needed for one complete turn.

Kevin
 
They measure it. Take your cleaning rod and wrap a patch around the jag. Use enough patch that it is a tight fit in the bore. Put a cartridge in the chamber (or a non primed cartridge with a bullet in it for the squeamish). Now, push the patch down the bore until you hit the bullet. Mark the rod so you can see it. Withdraw the patch. The rod should rotate. When you see your mark on the bottom of the rod, measure the distance from the muzzle to the mark. Multiply times two and that is how long it takes your rifling to make one complete turn. If your barrel is long enough, you can continue retracting the patch until the rod makes on full turn, based on your barrel length. When your mark is once again TDC, measure from bore to mark. That is the length needed for one complete turn.

Kevin
I know but they said they looked inside.
 
they looked inside.
Nobody "looks" at the inside of a barrel and can then tell you the twist rate.
;)
The manufacturer either lists it on a data sheet/stamps on the barrel* (and you trust him)...
...or you do some "patched-cleaning rod" variation of what StrawHat said above.
:thumbup:



* ofttimes AR barrel makers will do that, stamped near the muzzle
 
Nobody "looks" at the inside of a barrel and can then tell you the twist rate.
;)
The manufacturer either lists it on a data sheet/stamps on the barrel* (and you trust him)...
...or you do some "patched-cleaning rod" variation of what StrawHat said above.
:thumbup:



* ofttimes AR barrel makers will do that, stamped near the muzzle
No but you can look down one and tell the difference between a 1-38" and a 1-20".
 
he biggest problem I've found is a lack of different thicknesses of paper. Almost nobody is making anything other than 20 pound copy/ computer paper.
Go for 100% cotton onionskin....
0.002" 3x wrap shrinks to total of 0.010" diameter growth
 
Nobody "looks" at the inside of a barrel and can then tell you the twist rate.
;)
The manufacturer either lists it on a data sheet/stamps on the barrel* (and you trust him)...
...or you do some "patched-cleaning rod" variation of what StrawHat said above.
:thumbup:



* ofttimes AR barrel makers will do that, stamped near the muzzle
Good God man
 
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