.45 ACP question

Status
Not open for further replies.
Here is a synopsis of the issues with the .45ACP debacle.:
Jim Watson was dead-on: I did not seat too deep. As a matter of fact I seated too shallow as there is ~ 1mm of parallel shaft of bullet projecting out of the mouth of the casing before the taper begins. Therein lies the problem. I pushed the bullet into the crimp and there was still some play in the press which pushed the case a little too far which caused the case to buckle at the base of the bullet (at mid-case). Still with me? Where I went wrong is I assumed the seater die was set correctly. It was not as in the interim from my last re-load of Hornady XTPs I had seated some round nose FMJs. Assumption is the Mother of all disasters. I have a press mount bullet puller that will not grasp the bullet taper sufficiently tight to enable extraction. I will procure a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die and run a few rounds thru it to see if it works and will report back to you. Hopefully I can salvage the 200 rounds (9#14oz) of cartridges.

Thanks again for all the help.

Ironsight
 
Where I went wrong is I assumed the seater die was set correctly. It was not as in the interim from my last re-load of Hornady XTPs I had seated some round nose FMJs.
Not the first time it's been done. Most of us have done exactly what you did. A good thorough log will help here. Always check your O.A.L. as recorded for that bullet when getting started. Same as you would do for the powder charge. Double check powder type and weight.

I have a couple of Redding micrometer seaters, as well as one Hornady seater with the optional micrometer top. I love them because I can record the setting in my load log and dial back to whatever bullet I am going to load. I have been saving my pennies and just bought a Redding for .44 Spl/.44 Mag. I set it up yesterday.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=5766556&postcount=6


I am not an FCD fan, but it will probably salvage those loaded with the bulge. Next time just load em with out the bulge. :)
 
Making up one or two dummy rounds at the beginning and using the barrel just the way did is the "best" way to go. You don't "NEED" a case gauge. Your barrel is your best case gauge. The gauge just ensures that your reloads will fit in ALL properly chambered guns.
 
After pondering the data I removed the de-capping apparatus from the sizing die and set the die into the press at the proper depth. I then lubed the cartridge and ran it thru the sizing die. There was some resistance initially but after the top of the cartridge ran past the seated bullet the resistance abated. I removed the barrel from the 1911 and inserted the cartridge and it slid into the chamber hearing the familiar "clink" prescribed by pcwireless in his 8/8/2010 response and with perfect depth according to walkalong's drawings in the A thread link noted in his 8/8/210 response.

I can't imagine the bullet to be set into the case so snugly as to dangerously increase the chamber pressure at ignition......but!

Thoughts?
 
All that work probably had the opposite effect on neck tension. Can you push the bullet into the case by pressing it on the bench? I think they'll fly just fine. Don't get one stuck in your sizer now.
 
All that work probably had the opposite effect on neck tension. Can you push the bullet into the case by pressing it on the bench? I think they'll fly just fine.

I agree. I can push the bullet .002-.003" farther into the casing with ~30# pressure applied by my thumb/index finger. The cartridge diameter at the mouth end (including the brass) is .463", down from the .472" before the re-size.

Thanks again for all the help.
 
I can push the bullet .002-.003" farther into the casing with ~30# pressure applied by my thumb/index finger.
You should not be able to move a seated bullet with proper neck tension no matter how hard you push with your thumb/index finger.

Take out some factory ammo and calipers - I can't budge any of my factory/reloaded ammo.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top