45long colt question
- Thread starter m715
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Usually semi-automatic pistol cartridges are taper crimped. Revolvers typically are roll crimped. The semi-auto taper crimp is because the cartridge headspaces on the case mouth. If you roll it, it will upset the headspace which could be nasty. Also to roll, you usually need a cannelure or crimp groove. I don't know why exactly revolvers are usually rolled, but I suspect it is because it is stronger which can be needed to keep bullets from jumping crimp under heavy recoil. You can taper crimp revolver rounds if you want to though.
FROGO207
Member
On a pistol the round (45 ACP) head spaces on the case mouth and it has to catch on the chamber wall. A revolver head spaces on the flange at the head allowing you to use a roll crimp that holds the bullet a lot tighter. This will hold the bullet from walking out of the cylinder mouth after several shots especially in magnum chamberings. It also promotes complete propellant burn before bullet starts to move.
45lcshooter
Member
I roll crimp mine. Snugges it into the lead.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
+1
Straight wall auto-pistol cartridges headspace on the case mouth = Taper Crimp.
Rimmed revolver calibers headspace on the rim = Roll Crimp.
(To keep recoil from jerking the bullets out of the unfired rounds still in the cylinder.)
Revolver bullets have a crimp groove or cannelure so you can roll-crimp them.
Auto-pistol bullets are smooth with no place to roll-crimp, so you taper-crimp them.
rc
Straight wall auto-pistol cartridges headspace on the case mouth = Taper Crimp.
Rimmed revolver calibers headspace on the rim = Roll Crimp.
(To keep recoil from jerking the bullets out of the unfired rounds still in the cylinder.)
Revolver bullets have a crimp groove or cannelure so you can roll-crimp them.
Auto-pistol bullets are smooth with no place to roll-crimp, so you taper-crimp them.
rc
To confuse things, there are plated bullets that are for use in revolvers and they generally do not have a cannelure. A taper crimp in a revolver case will work with these or a light roll crimp. The crimp is mostly just to remove the belling in these instances. Besides, you should not drive plated bullets at magnum velocities.
A normal moderate to heavy roll crimp with a plated bullet may distort the case mouth where it may not chamber.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Good point!
I failed to mention that.
rc
I failed to mention that.
rc
FROGO207
Member
I use .452 lead bullets. A regular Colt or repro fixed sight revolver is regulated to point of aim with 250 grain LRNFP bullet IIRC.
USSR
Member
All depends upon the size of your cylinder throats. Take one of your .45 ACP bullets and drop it in each cylinder chamber. If it falls right through the throats, you need a larger diameter bullet. You should be able to push it through, but not have it fall through on it's own.
Don
Everything I've read recommends a fairly stout roll crimp for the 45 colt. I reload other calibers and have not seen this same recommendation. I gather that it's important for achieving reliable powder ignition and preventing bullet jump, something especially important in 45 colt or when using "Ruger only" loads.
Clark
Member
Per my experiments I have verified:
Roll crimp helps two things:
1) keeps heavy recoil from yanking the bullet out and jamming the revolver.
2) helps get good ignition with ball powder like W296/H110. Bad ignition can cause a squib and jam the revolver.
Per my range time I am suspicious:
Roll crimp into the cannelure improves accuracy in rifles with 45 Colt. Maybe because ignition is more consistent.
Roll crimp helps two things:
1) keeps heavy recoil from yanking the bullet out and jamming the revolver.
2) helps get good ignition with ball powder like W296/H110. Bad ignition can cause a squib and jam the revolver.
Per my range time I am suspicious:
Roll crimp into the cannelure improves accuracy in rifles with 45 Colt. Maybe because ignition is more consistent.
If there's a crimping groove in your bullet, by all means why not use it & roll crimp.
I have used plated bullets without crimping groove in .45 LC reloads and taper crimped them as to manufacturer's instructions :
They state that you can taper crimp as hard as you like, provided you don't "break" (damage/cut through) the plating.
I mostly use standard-level powered loads with relatively fast (to medium) powders such as VV N-320 and N-340. They have always worked fine, even if only taper-crimped.
I have used plated bullets without crimping groove in .45 LC reloads and taper crimped them as to manufacturer's instructions :
They state that you can taper crimp as hard as you like, provided you don't "break" (damage/cut through) the plating.
I mostly use standard-level powered loads with relatively fast (to medium) powders such as VV N-320 and N-340. They have always worked fine, even if only taper-crimped.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
As a general rule, just as in your 45 Auto when you load a jacketed bullet you use a .451" bullet and when loading lead it's a .452" bullet, the same holds true with the .45 Colt. Of course I'm talking about modern revolver like you bought, the older Colts can require .454" bullets or wider.
BTW, there is no such thing as a 45 "Long" Colt. The 45 S&W/45 Schofield was nicknamed the 45 Short Colt but there was never a 45 Long Colt, just the .45 Colt... (not being a jerk, just giving the facts)
You and your son are going to love shooting the 45 Colt, especially in a SA revolver. It's a fun cartridge that's powerful but with less recoil than you would expect. A hint, if you want a touch of "old world" without loading black Powder or one of the substitutes give Trail Boss a try. It's a close replica of the Black Power feel and you even get a little smoke that I think they added intentionally. Have fun and welcome to the forum...
USSR
Member
It's not just the older Colts that will shoot better with the larger bullet. Don't assume that you have correct size throats and need .452" bullets, measure them. I have .454" throats and my revolver shoots better with the larger diameter bullets.
Don
Hondo 60
Member
For 45 Colt:
If the bullet has a cannelure, I roll crimp in said cannelure.
If I use Berry's or some other bullet without a cannelure, then a medium taper crimp is applied.
Hard enough to prevent the bullet from jumping on recoil, but not so hard as to cut the plating.
OP
OP
m715
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now having problems finding bullets,my speer #12 book only shows about six bullets,midway usa shows none of the bullit numbers so I assume they are no longer in production.Ifound 250gr #4484 but have no reloading data in my book for that load.Guess I have to get updated book
FROGO207
Member
With a bullet that has a cannalure you crimp to the cannalure for the length. The weight and type matter but to the extent if it is the same style and both are made out of say, lead (or jacketed) and are the same weight they could be interchanged----but the load should be reduced 10% and worked up, all the way to max only if needed. As should be done when trying out any new set of components in your firearm.
Having the EXACT bullet listed is not mandatory. The data for lead OR the data for jacketed OR the data for a solid, does need to be kept within the same TYPE and the weights need to be the same to be exchangeable however. Missouri Bullet makes a couple fine lead bullets especially for the 45 Colt.
Having the EXACT bullet listed is not mandatory. The data for lead OR the data for jacketed OR the data for a solid, does need to be kept within the same TYPE and the weights need to be the same to be exchangeable however. Missouri Bullet makes a couple fine lead bullets especially for the 45 Colt.
USSR
Member
As FROGO207 said, you don't need load data for the exact bullet, just the same weight and construction type. It's not like you're going to be on the bleeding edge pressure-wise. Take the load data for a 250gr jacketed bullet, reduce it a bit, and there you are. Somewhere's about 8.0 to 8.5gr of Unique would be a good place to be.
Don
Don
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