9.3x62 vs 375 H&H

[ExAgoradzo]

Ok you all who've talked me into the grand daddy magnum, I will be getting a rifle next year and have recently discovered the 9.3 (the 375's step-daddy).

Much about this cartridge seems to fit me. I plan to brown bear hunt, and though I would like to go to Africa, it's unlikely.

One thing I like re: the 9.3 is what seems to be a wider variety of bullets (except when you go big).

The one thing I don't like is that it just doesn't seem to be available. Once I start reloading that won't be as big a deal...

What I want to know from those who love either round is what makes it 'better' knowing that elk and brown bear will likely be the biggest things I ever hunt (mostly pig and deer, but Ive got those covered).

Thanks guys!
Greg

 

[Inebriated]

Just go for the gold, and go .458 Lott.

But really, if I had to pick, I'd go with whichever one's history I like best. Both are established, and both will drop whatever you want to drop.

 

[Boxhead]

My 9.3x62 in 2002 using the old 250 gr X from an FN Mauser.

 

[Uncle Grinch]

I'd go with the 9.3. Haven't had a .375, but did have a 416 Taylor. Ended up selling it and built up a 9.3x62 on a Mauser action.

Ammo is harded to find locally, but I reload and componets are easy to obtain. I also cast and have found that moulds for the 9.3 are a little harder to find. I ended up with a custom NEI 260 gn mould.

 

[eastbank]

i used a cz 550 in .375 H&H in africa last may-june with 260gr bullets and killed every thing i shot and i will use the same rifle this may-june when i go back. it sure will be cheaper and easier to get ammo for the .375 H&H. eastbank.

 

[jmr40]

No personal experience with the 9.3. But it is just a 30-06 necked up to 36 caliber. I do have experience with a 35 Whelen which is a 30-06 necked up to 35 caliber. I can't see that making a bit of difference on game. The only thing it has going for it is that in some African countries they have a minimum caliber size of .36. It makes it legal, but not really any better.

It is a interesting oddball chambering that will kill game larger than deer a bit better than a 30-06. But it ain't a 375.

 

[H&Hhunter]

9.3 x 62 advantages.
Less recoil, and it can be had in a much slimmer and lighter riflers than the .375H&H.

Disadvantages.
As has been mentioned it's basically a .36 Whelen. While it has plenty of power for the largest thin skinned animals it is REALLY minimal when we start talking thick skinned animals such as cape buffalo, that said there has been a pile of DG killed with the various 9.3's over the years. I'm sure also it would make a fine brown bear rifle. The other major issue I have with the 9.3x62 is that it's a fairly low velocity round and therefore can be limiting as an all around rifle when compared to a .375H&H in terms of longer range shooting. Ammo can be tricky to find.

.375H&H advantages.
It has the velocity to be considered a true long range big game rifle. It is legal in all African countries for dangerous game. Has a proven track record on the largest game up to and including elephant. Given it's performance and capabilities it truly is an all around do everything round from long range cross canyon stuff to close range thumping on dangerous game. Ammo is "generally" available. (See below)

Disadvantages.
Tends to be built on a heavier weight rifle. Recoil can be a problem with some folks. Ammo can be hard to find at times.

PS

Bullets for the .375 diameter range from 220 grs to 380 grs I find the comment above about bullet variety in the 9.3 being wider is incorrect. You can easily find 220 gr 250gr 260gr 270gr 280gr 300gr 350gr and not easy but there is a 380 gr bullet made for the .375H&H as well. In the 250 260 and 300 gr offering there are some very nice high BC bullets made for long range hunting.

Plain and simple. While the 9.3 is a very good round, it simply is not and never will match the capabilities and versatility of the .375H&H.

 

[H&Hhunter]

My 9.3x62 in 2002 using the old 250 gr X from an FN Mauser.

Boxhead,

That looks like a Texas eland? If so where did you get him? It appears to be a pretty cool looking ranch to hunt on.

 

[ExAgoradzo]

H&H,
Thanks, I'm sweating this buy more than I did in 2012 (6.5x55)...if I'm going to buy such a specialty caliber and it will be two or more years till my next gun, I want to turn over every corner... From what I've seen so far the H&H covers everything I want in terms of MPBR, DG, and the intangible 'coolness' factor...

Is the extra inch on the M70 Alaskan (25') significant over the SE (24')?
How short would you go?

Thanks,
Greg

 

[Jim Watson]

How about a 9.3x64 Brenneke?

Probably harder to find, but more powerful.

 

[H&Hhunter]

ExAgoradzo,

By far and away for a general purpose rifle I like the Alaskan better. Simply because it's slimmer and feels lighter between the hands. The SE feels a bit chunky to me. My original .375H&H is an older Stainless Classic that I cut down to 20". At the time I was doing a lot of bush flying in Alaska and the short rifle made sense for fitting in and out of small bush planes. I've also used it hunt all over the wold and haven't noticed that anything I've shot with it has noticed that it is bit slower between 50 and 100FPS depending on the load.

The Alaskan with a 25" barrel is a really nice feeling and shooting gun. My second .375 in fact is a 25" Alaskan and I have no plans on cutting it down. I however immediately ditch the wood stock and slap it into a McMillian. At the very least have your wood stoked M-70 Bedded they are hit and miss on the bedding from the factory.

Here is the 20" gun.



here is my 25" Alaskan hunting feral hogs in Alaskan weather conditions in Northern Texas.

 

[browningguy]

I love the 9.3x62, but don't pretend it's better than the .375 H&H, because it's not. It's a fine round that's almost the equal of the .375.

 

[Dr T]

375 H&H.

Because you never know when you are going to need factory ammo.

 

[back40]

a .375h&h may very well be my next rifle. i've always had a hankering for a m70 se. i see the alaskan is 1/2lb lighter while having a 1" longer bbl. how does this shake out? thinner contour?

H&Hhunter, i see you have experience with both. is the alaskan stock that much trimmer than the se, or is there something i'm missing.

i also see that the alaskan in stainless isn't on winchester's sight anymore along with a couple other m70 configurations.

 

[ExAgoradzo]

H&H
Last question (for now, I won't have money together until early summer at least)...
I asked Robert on another thread about warping in environments like coastal AK. Both you and he suggested the McMillan stock now: but that won't happen right away.

What should I look for in the stock if it is walnut or laminate or what should I ask a smith to do to make sure that I'm not going to have these issues?
And, btw: isn't that something Winchester ought to do before it sells me the rifle?
I'm thinking just take it out and shoot it, but I don't want to have a bull elk or a grizz in my sights and have the wood warp my bullet out of the picture...I'm poor enough of a shot as it is not to worry about a mechanical failure like that.

Thanks for your help,
Greg

 

[rule303]

You could really throw a wrench in your plans and look at the .375 Ruger. Balistically identical to the H&H, but out of a 20" barrel. So you can have the performance of the .375 H&H, in a regular standard length action like the 9.3x62. Best of both worlds on paper, but I'll admit it doesn't have the romance and nostalgia of the H&H.

 

[ExAgoradzo]

I considered the Ruger, and given my appreciation for their revolvers you'd think Id give them a break in their bolt actions. But I'm just not impressed: for a DG gun they just don't look right...and the romance...and the availability of ammo just turn me away towards the H&H.

I appreciate the comment though, really.

Greg

 

[H&Hhunter]

H&Hhunter, i see you have experience with both. is the alaskan stock that much trimmer than the se, or is there something i'm missing

back40,

The Alaskan is slimmer trimmer rifle all the way around both in the barrel contour and the stock.

What should I look for in the stock if it is walnut or laminate or what should I ask a smith to do to make sure that I'm not going to have these issues?
And, btw: isn't that something Winchester ought to do before it sells me the rifle?

ExAgoradzo,

Yes proper bedding is something Winchester and every other factory rifle should have done before leaving the assembly plant. HOWEVER very few factory rifles are properly bedded and this become ever more evident and problematic once we step up in caliber. So there is nothing per say to look for other than the fact that your rifle comes from the factory with no bedding to speak of. Save yourself the heart ache and the trouble and just have the thing properly bedded before you shoot it. Should cost about $150.00. The sign that your rifle isn't properly bedded is poor shot to shot grouping and in a heavier recoiling rifle many times your first indication is a split stock.

This will be the case with just about every factory produced new .375H&H you can buy , Rugers too, and the majority of used ones and even antiques. Unless the rifle you are buying used was owned by a guy in the know it probably isn't properly bedded. Most folks simply don't understand the importance of bedding these bigger caliber rifles and most don't shoot them enough to find out the hard way why you should.

 

[ExAgoradzo]

H&H,
Thanks.

Jim,
The 9.3x64 does look good. Several things appeal to me about it and if I saw a screaming deal on one I'd probably take it! (Prob a 9.3x62 as well.) But to look for one then be concerned about losing or leaving ammo would stay in my head forever.

I appreciate all your comments guys, this is why I go to THR.

Greg

 

[Andrew Leigh]

Hi

As a reloader the .375 can do everything the 9.3 can do but the converse is not true.

Regarding slimness and weight. I have a Sako and it is very sleek and lightweight, it was this that appealed to me. Unlike many other .375's it does not have that bulkiness around the magazine area and the weight is reduced so if you are looking for less weight and bulk this may be an option. One negative is the lack of "real" controlled feed which I don't like.

Cheers

 

[Boxhead]

The eland was taken in Africa along with a pile of other critters.

 

[hq]

Both of these calibers are extremely common in Europe and Africa, which is a major consideration if you're planning to travel. SAAMI pressures are pretty much identical so the major difference comes from case volume/capacity; you can always load 9.3 hot or .375 mild if you want. Personally I prefer .375, mainly because it shoots a bit flatter with same weight bullets and I occasionally shoot beyond 300yd. The downside is that it requires a magnum action, +1lb or so in weight, depending on the gun.

You can't really go wrong with either. I'd be a bit wary of other, fairly similar calibers that may be slightly more tempting on paper but offer little more in practise. Having a hunting rifle in a well-established caliber is a huge plus if you ever have to find ammo locally, away from home. Sometimes it may even mean as little as a four-hour drive from where you live...

 

[Robert]

H&H is correct about the SE being a bit chunky but that never bothered me. It didn't seem to bother him when he was shooting my rifle either... My rifle weighs in right at 10 pounds on my bathroom scale but it does not feel heavy to me. It is well balanced, shoulders like a dream and didn't wear me down when I hunting with it way up in the CO Rockies. The only other improvement I have left is that McMillan stock...one day. Then it will be an all world, all weather rifle.

He is spot on about bedding though. He is the one that helped me figure out that my rifle needed a bedding job and that was money well spent. Mine also needed the crown cleaned up as well. It went from shooting like a damn shotgun to a medium bore laser. I have my rifle zeroed at 150 to work with the B&C reticle on my scope and have made hits out to 500 or so. That rock was coming right at us... But had it truly been an elk it would have been a kill, I hit right where I was aiming. The 375H&H is an amazing round.

 

[Jim Watson]

Factory bedding is pretty punk. Early days, you were recommended to carry a complete spare stock for your Model 70 .458.

But then in 1909, W.W. Greener recommended that if you went on long hunts with a .303, you take a spare rifle for backup.

 

[Flatbush Harry]

+1 for the .375 H&H.

I debated between a9.3x62 and .375 H&H for a while. One day I was wandering through my local Sportsman's Warehouse and saw a Rem 700 XCR II in .375. Now I had a B&C LA sporter stock with the Aluminum bedding block in Weatherby configuration sitting in my gun closet and decided to go with the Remmy. I had my smith glass bed and free float the barrel and mounted Leupy QR bases on it. I now have two scopes for it...a 3-9x40 and a 1.5x6x24, each in QR rings. It is a sweet, weatherproof and useful all-around package...and shoots 3-shot cloverleafs at 100 yardswith Nosler 260gr AccuBonds over 69gr of RL-15 with Rem 9-1/2M primers.

I found that I'd have to buy all my 9.3mm components via internet while I can easily find .375 components at both Cabela's and Sportsman's Warehouse. I'd also vote for the Win M70 as the rifle platform (I have M70s in .30-06, 7mm RM and 7x57 and love them...if I get another .375, it'll be the Alaskan version, as I do fish up there and like SS when possible for field rifles). I would recommend the QR base/rings idea for these rifles...my Leupy set-up returns to zero (or damn close) reliably and gives you quick access to irons.

Good luck and good hunting,

Harry