• You are using the old Black Responsive theme. We have installed a new dark theme for you, called UI.X. This will work better with the new upgrade of our software. You can select it at the bottom of any page.

A Light on My Self Defense Weapon?

Status
Not open for further replies.
"what's wrong with just hitting the light switch?"
That's not tacticool enough. NVGs, flashbangs, and Surefires are the method of choice. :cool:

Of course, there's the real chance that somebody decides to knock off your house during a power outage (not uncommon for rural places), or cuts your lines to avoid setting off alarms.
 
personally dislike weapon mounted lights. A small handheld flashlight (surefire, streamlight, etc...), I think, has a tactical advantage over a weapon mounted light. As stated earlier, the key to using a light is not to have it on all the time. When you do have it on, you need to be moving it around using the indirect light to see.

Doing this makes it harder to tell where the light is coming from.

I don't think that'd work. Your eyes still just follow the beam down to the person holding it. The second the light goes on it's extremely noticeable. You can't avoid noticing it, actually.

-I just tried it. I can see the beam. where it's coming from.
 
The problem with just flicking on the switch is:

  • you may not be near one
  • You may not be able to find it in the dark
  • you will be just as blinded by sudden light as they
  • you absolutely give away your position
  • its hard to check for people in your house when you have to go over to each light switch and turn it on before you can look


Im sure there are others, but Im tired.
 
You guys have given me some great food for thought. Gosh, I never imagined some of you would disagree on the best methods to use!! :rolleyes:
But, that's what makes the thread interesting and helps frame my thoughts on the problem. Thanks to all of you, though I'm not suggesting we end the thread if you have additional comments or ideas- or, if you want to help someone else understand the error of their ways....:D
 
I had reason to believe that someone was in my living room and heading for my bedroom once. I had to worry about getting my glasses on, grabbing my handgun AND my flashlight in case I needed it.

I never managed to get the gun. I knocked it away from me twice when I tried to grab it. (Stress can make simple actions much more difficult to do!) I was LUCKY it was a false alarm.

I keep a light on my HD gun now. (I won't bobble it next time.) I can remove the light and use it in my left hand very quickly but I don't have to grab 2 different items if I have to get up. The light IS with the gun. I can leave it on or slide it off. I feel better only needing to grab one item and I can "feel" where the light is if I need to take it off.

Second experience:

I went downstairs one night to check out an odd sound - didn't really suspect a BG but to be safe I grabbed my gun (with light.) On the way downstairs it bacame so dark that I could not see... ANYTHING. So I just "touched" the light to see where I was. (I was looking to see the steps and the door that would open to where I wanted to check.)

As soon as I touched the switch I was instantly blind. If someone had opened that door and entered at that time I was a sitting duck. The brightness of that light bouncing off the walls is incredible when your eyes are used to the dark.

Be careful where you use a bright light because it could end up blinding you and not the BG.

FWIW...
 
Any gun can be used effectively without an attached light.

However.

If you're planning ahead enough that you're either asking or answering a question about it on the internet, you are in a position to make sure that you don't have to employ your defensive weapon without an attached light. And, if you have the option, why would you not have one? I can think of only two reasons:

1. Bulk/weight: A valid concern, but modern lights are pretty ... err, light. And compact. CCWs, of course, can be a PITA to equip.

2. Expense: Another valid concern, but with the low-end models from the quality light makers clocking in at a little over $100, to me it is a no-brainer to delay your next gun purchase long enough to hook a light to your go-to gun.

Most of the other criticisms of weaponlights (they'll know where to shoot, can't use it as a standard flashlight without violating the 4 Rules, etc) can be overcome by using the on/off switch properly and having a hand-held light to go with your defensive weapon. To me, weaponlights are an upside without a downside, especially on long guns.

Mike
 
Rugerdaddy,

I subscribe to the "it's a good tool to have" camp.

I recently purchased a Streamlight TLR-2 laser/light combo. I wrote a review of it here, in case you are interested.

The key to this question is that just because you have it, doesn't mean you must use it. Each scenario is different. In perfect circumstances, while investigating a bump in the night, I would do my best to maintain complete concealability. If I could identify the BG without being noticed, all the better. However, If a light is needed, it would be readily accessible if already mounted on my weapon. I also have Streamlight Stingers scattered throughout the house and by the bedside. They are 115 lumens.

Know this. Most weapon-mounted lights are seriously bright. I think I read that above 60 lumens will temporarily blind someone under normal conditions. While I am, admittedly, no expert, I cannot imagine any bad guy could accurately function if blinded by one of these lights in a dark environment. Thus, to me, it becomes another tool worth having. Which is why I finally invested in one.

I agree with the other posters regarding "blind and move."

Good luck with whatever decision you make!
 
When I set up a client's home (or business, for that matter) I install motion sensing lights in every room and hallway/stairwell in the house but the bedrooms. That way the owner doesn't have to worry about taking a light with him, the BG is in the light and the owner isn't, the BG leaves a signature everywhere he travels through the house and the BG is backlit as he enters the bedroom (if he gets that far.) By that time, the owner has identified whether the intruder is foe/friend/cat and has taken appropriate actions.

Pops
 
they make radio controlled switches

that make it possible for about 30 a circuit maximum of 4 seperate frequencies. you can use em to set up a way to light up areas in your house from your bedroom without the expense and destruction of an electrician. i use em so i hit switches and it lights up perimeter behind an intruder. makes them outlined. the switches are mounted on a board so i can move it around. one turns on yard perimeter another 2 all the inside perimeter lights in 2 seperate zones last one light stairs they are doit yourself freindly and you can set up multiple switching boards so you have light without giving away your location
 
Last edited:
why do you have to turn all lights off at night ? I leave my kitchen light on 24 / 7 . costs pennies , and looks like someone is home / awake at night . Bedroom is dark , hallway is not bright but I can see perfectly from Bedroom down hall . Intruder can not see into dark bedroom . Plus , I have kicked too many chair legs / coffee tables / toys walking around in the pitch dark .

advantage = Glocktoberfest .
 
The plug-in remote control light switches referred to earlier run on an industry protocol known as X10. Links to a couple of online vendors are below, there are of course many more, and some hardware stores and places like Radio Shack handle some X10 components as well. I definitely recommend them, they allow you to turn on lights throughout the house with one push of a button. And if you're hunkered down with your family in a safe room, you can set the system up to leave that room in the dark.

http://www.x10.com/products4/overture/home2.html

http://www.smarthome.com/prodindex.asp?catid=2

But there are a couple of things to keep in mind. Bad guys have been known to cut phone lines and pull power to houses they intend to break into. If they do that before they break into your house, your carefully prepared X10 system won't work. So you will want a cell phone in your safe room (even phones with no subscription can call 911) and you still need handheld lights. IMHO weapon-mounted white lights are a good idea too- especially on long guns. Just because you HAVE one on a gun doesn't mean you must use it- it's just one more option. I personally want a reload on any long gun I use for HD, and I want a white light source also.

YMMV of course. I also like having a large caliber loaded dog in the house (in our case a 90-pound Fila Brasileiro aka Brazilian mastiff), YMMV on that approach also. But I don't have to worry about houseclearing.

Stay safe,

lpl/nc
 
the ones i use aren't x 10

they look like a regular switch plate with a rocker switch lil watch type battery powered transmitter other unit goes in wall replacing existing switch. are available in 3 way as well. i mounted em on a board and can take it anywhere within a 100 feet of the wall units.
 
Zenith Heath sells a line of remote control units at Home Depot by the motion lights - wall plug ins, wall built ins, exterior battery motion sensors, wall plug in with alert tone, exterior remote plug in, lamp socket remote, master controller, handheld two channel remote, etc. Just saw some of the same units on the electrical clearance table at Lowe's about 50% off.

I just replaced the floodlight switches for the front and back of the house with remote activated switches. I installed a battery powered motion sensor in the front and back of the house, out from it and facing the house. They are all set to the same code, so either motion sensor will turn on and off all the floodlights. I also replaced all the exterior lights with motion sensor lights, replaced the flimsy glass insert front door with solid, added a front door locking storm door, front door chain, and covered the garage door windows. I am trying to do some cheap hardening of our household security. We already have an alarm with a lot of motion sensors.
 
A light is best to illuminate the target prior to shooting to determine who it is and whether you need to use such force. Turning it on to search is a bad idea imho. You know your home and the layout better than most intruders should, so you should be more capable in the dark than they are. Alerting them to your presence with an approaching light is unnecessary and more dangerous.Use the light once you have pinpointed thier location to determine who it is, and what they are armed with.
So yes I think a light is highly useful, but only for a small part of the whole encounter. However the tradeoff is a less streamlined weapon, and a change in balance of the weapon.
The pros, especialy if there is other people in your household are reliable target identification. It could be one of your family out getting a midnight snack, or perhaps a child/roomate doing a bad job sneaking in, and you never knowing they left. It really depends on your living situation

Then again it could be some local kid breaking in and you would have no problem securing them at gunpoint until the police arrive. Lethal force is an option, not always a necessity with a criminal. The only necessity is the law allowing you the choice of choosing the course of action in such a situation. Perhaps detaining them for the authorities is a viable option, and the light will help you make that choice.
 
Most of the other criticisms of weaponlights (they'll know where to shoot, can't use it as a standard flashlight without violating the 4 Rules, etc) can be overcome by using the on/off switch properly and having a hand-held light to go with your defensive weapon. To me, weaponlights are an upside without a downside, especially on long guns.

Furthermore, there are 4 rules for a reason.

If I'm searching a dark area for a threat someone might get a gun pointed at them. Oh, well pointing a gun at them doesn't mean I'm going to shoot them.

The problem with people mis-using weapon mounted lights is when they use it for utilitarn task. Not for searching an area for threats.
 
I'll just let the pic speak for my choice
various008.gif
 
Can I get a little tactics lesson from some of you guys. Asked a few times in another thread (shotguns) but cannot get anyone to respond. 'm thinking of mounting a light which I already own to a Mossberg. The light has the momentary on-of-switch in the endcap and will stay on if I twist the end cap. It happens to be a Strion but functions similar to many other lights I've seen. The mount just clamps around the magazine tube and I assume it will can slide rear. I will mount it as far as possible while still ensuring free movement of the foreend. To the best of my knowledge, there is no remote endcap available. Since this is similar for many other "tactical" lights (TL2 or TL3 for instance), I'm sure others have encountered the problem.

What is the proper way to use the light? Slide a thumb or first knuckle to activate the light? Some other way? Is anyone out there??? :)
 
Weapons Mounted Lights

I have a Springfield Xd with a light mounted as well as a Twelve gauge with a light mounted by a clamp on the magazine. I am a fan of both schools of thought here. I am the only one with keys to my home therefore target identification is not an issue. Anyone in my home is an intruder and only will be lit up before the trigger is pulled. However these lights have many valuable applications outside of the home, on my ranch I always carry a gun for predators mostly snakes but also since meth labs and rural crime is on the rise. However, nothing will replace a good flashlight I use surefire's (personal pref) any situation needs to be evaluated by the circumstances and environment. Good training and awareness of local gun laws is invaluable here.

Nemoaz I have a pressure switch on the slide that I activate with my thumb hope this helps
 
nemoaz,

Using your knuckle may be the best option for that type of light, but it's sure not optimum. If you are serious about a light on your shotgun, save up and get a surefire or something with a pressure switch, then train with it.

For long guns, some lights, mag lights included, can be turned on by squeezing the barrel of the light laterally against the forend of the long gun with your support hand.
 
My house gun is a pistol, with an Insight M6X (I won it!). The interior of my house is fairly well illuminated from the outside by streetlights. I can see well enough everywhere to locate a target, but not to ID. (not that I should have to, I live alone)

The idea is Locate target, Gun up, light on, ID target, shoot/noshoot, light off, side step fast, resume search if necessary.

If you need a light to search where you are, I'd recommend getting an independent light for searching, and shooting if you are using a handgun. There are numerous techniques for using a light with a pistol, and they all have their merits and drawbacks (I prefer jaw index, and FBI)

With a long gun, I think you really need two lights to be efficient. Here the strategy is using the independent light to search. When a target is located, drop the light (that's what the lanyard is for!) and move! Mount the weapon, gun light on, ID target, shoot/noshoot, gun light off, MOVE!

The weapon light is not for searching, searching with the weapon light can only lead to bad practices with familiarity and the resulting sloppiness.
 
Lights

If it's dark enough for you to need a light (no streetlights, no moon), Then even a $20 Brinkman from WallyWorld will blind and disorient a BG. Try it on yourself.
 
I use both when clearing buildings. Hand held light: away from body, strobing and moving light to disorient when I need to check a dark area and have both hands available. Weapon mounted light: for when I need a light and don't have both hands available, as in opening a door. It pays to have both options. Don't limit yourself by restricting your tactical options. Use both.
 
Two lights, weapon light and 4-cell maglite. Weapon light is to blind someone, maglite is because I hear a bump in the night.
 
In principle, I agree with you. In practice, my domicile blows in that the light switches are all on the "bad guy's" side of the room/house. That is, I'd have to cross a dark room to turn on the main lights. I wonder how many other folks have this problem? One solution would be to add a master switch panel in the bedroom, but I doubt my landlord would appreciate me chopping up the drywall. I live alone, though, so threat identification is fairly straightforward. ;)

home depot has remote control thingies for ceiling fans. they controllights too. problem fixed.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top