A rule of thumb of barrel length for each gauge?

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farscott

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I am thinking about purchasing a new bottom-ejecting pump shotgun, a Browning BPS or Ithaca Classic in 20 gauge since I like my 26"-barreled .410 BPS so well. Browning offers the BPS Hunting 20 gauge in 26" and 28" barrels. Ithaca offers barrel lengths from 24" to 28" in the Classic model. This new shotgun would be used for a variety of tasks: small game hunting, a bit of informal clay target shooting, and as a shotgun for my girlfriend.

As I was doing my research, I realized I have no way, other than feel, to figure out which barrel length is better. Since there is the "Rule of 96" for weight, I was wondering if there is a similar rule for barrel length. If there is, it makes sense (to uneducated me) that the barrel length should be related to the diameter of the barrel. Is there any such rule? Any suggestions on how to choose the proper barrel length?
 
No rules that I've ever heard of. My advice on barrels is to go long and go light. Barrel weights vary and there are no hard and fast rules relating to cartridge size.

It used to be that smaller gauges dictated shorter barrels and what shooters ended up with were light whippy guns. The reason I don't own an Remington 870 or 1100 in 28 gauge is that they don't come in anything other than 25" barrels.:cuss: Make them in 28" or even 30" and my credit card and I would be at the front of the line.

Paul
 
I do not think barrel length should be tied to the bore diameter. IMO, it's more a case of getting the balance one wants for a particular shotgun and/or mission.

I've done good work in the brush with a riot barreled pump. I've also done just as good work with a 27" barreled SXS, and similar with a 28" barreled 20 guage O/U.

These days, I use longer barrels and shoot better, though I also shoot better with the shorties.

Any of the lengths mentioned will do the job if we hold up our end.The Ithaca's so light I'd want a bit more weight up front to add a little inertia to the swing.There I'd go with the 28" tube, but YMMV.

In your shoes, I'd let the GF the one that felt best to her.
 
IMHO, barrel length should be determined based on use - long barrel for trap, waterfowl, etc.; short for upland, skeet, teal, etc. Longer barrels will give marginal velocity gains but offer longer sight radius for better aming precision which is good for the tighter chokes used with trap, waterfowl, etc. Also, longer barrels will track smother due to inertia of the swing. With either choice, balance is important which is a drawback to multiple barrels for the same receiver.

Just my 02
 
Balance is way more important than length, and it's totally subjective. I tried to pick out the wife's first shotgun for her. What a nightmare. All I was looking at were SXS's because that's what works for me. She hated them. Ended up buying a Browning BPS 12ga AND an Ithica 37 16ga within a few weeks of each other because she just couldn't decide ( you should see her in a shoe store). They both work well for her, I hate them.
 
Balance is the most important thing and everyone has their own preferences.

Barrel length isn't a good judge of balance because barrels can have difference weights. The backbored barrels on a 32" Beretta 682E are lighter than the older models with Mobile chokes. A Remington light contour barrel will weigh the same as shorter standard contour tubes.

It is possible to have multiple barrels, even in difference gauges, where the barrel weights are the same and balance is constant. Balance can be changed by removing wood from the stock, adding a recoil pad, or even putting in extended choke tubes.

Paul
 
Cogent to this....

On the thread about comparing 870s barrels, I mentioned weighing 3 870 barrels,all 30" long.

The one on the TB weighed 2 lbs, 4 oz.

The 1955 field barrel sans rib came in at 2 lbs, 2 oz.

The new Light Contour barrel came in at 2 lbs.

And, I weighed Frankenstein's bunty little 21" tube, a cut down Express job with rib and tubes.

It weighed 2 lbs, 2 oz, the same as the 1955 one, despite its 9" less length.

Obviously, weight and length are not joined at the hip.
 
Whatever works. The hotshots seem to be moving towards longer barrels. I'd go for a barrel giving the performance I wanted, then adjust balance to suit.

I've shot 5 stand with the 21" barrel on Frank. My scores were decent, but not great. After I get some 5 stand in with the 30" LC, I'll report back.
 
Many manufacturers are making the bbls lighter and lighter, so unless you want a "bbl light" gun, you are almost forced into the longer bbls.

However, I like the bbls in the 30-32" range for O/U's and a couple inches less for autos.

I picked up a 34" O/U the other day. It felt pretty good but I wouldn't look good 'draggin' the bbls on the ground as I walk. :D
 
I just can't see anything in all the years I have been shooting shotties, that tells me that longer barrels are 'better', or shorter barrels are 'better'.
For example, my old Browning A-5, 3 inch 12 GA mag, was a great duck gun in the old days , with the full choke 32 inch barrel. Nowdays, it shoots just as well, with a 26 inch Hastings barrel and a good Xfull choke tube. The old Brownie has, for me, much better balance now.
 
To follow-up, we went to the dealer and to a local club to get a feel for the differences. She thought the longer barrels felt better to her at the dealer, but there was no way to really see how well she swung the gun. At the club, many shooters let her try their shotguns (that was really great of them), so she got to try some really great shotguns, including a beautiful Parker!! She ended up liking the 28-inch barrels, but did not like the 20-gauge recoil even with target loads. She liked the 28-gauge (!!!), so we are now the owners of a 28-gauge Browning BPS with 28-inch barrels. Looks like more reloading for me.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.
 
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