A what if for Tuner

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ken grant

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Suppose a man showed up at your door with a pistol and a box of parts. He wants to have ONE 1911 to be his personal weapon. To shot the snot out of it,carry it, use under all kinds of conditions,under the truck seat,in the boat,in the rain,in the tropics and in cold conditions(Same as original was for)
His only wishes were for a Commander size,be made of Stainless and to have enough spare parts to last a long time.

What would you wish he brought? :what: :eek:
 
I’m obviously not Tuner …..

But if someone knocks on my door they’d better have an older Colt Combat Commander with “real steel†internals. It had also better be blued. After whatever work that’s needed is done and the sights have been zeroed for what ever load they plan to carry, the gun can be finished with whatever rust resistant finish I choose.

They don’t call me an Old Reprobate fer’ nothing … :cuss: :D
 
Chris - that meant for me?

If so - I decided to raise my standards. Not to mention "Reprobate" is easier to spell. :neener:

Curmudgeons tend to explain why they act the way they do.

Reprobates, most often just grunt and walk away. :D

Ain't that right Old Fuff ?

GRUNT!! :D
 
What if...

What Fuff said...I do not like stainless, Sam I am...unless the gun will be doin' yeoman service on a charter fishin' boat. Even then, a good rust-resistant finish is better. Electroless Nickel is one such, if you're lucky enough to find an old Commander with Coltgard. (tm)
****************

'Twas asked:

>If I were to show up on your front door step with my Glock 19, I should<

Bring a sense of humor along...'cause you're gonna catch some flak. :neener:
**************

...grunt...
 
Phyphor:

You want to bring what to my door ... ?? :fire:

Actually, for the purpose set forth by Ken, you’re Poly-whatever piece of unmentionable metal-substitute wouldn’t be such a bad choice. My problem with it isn’t so much the materials as the size of the butt. In my poor little hand it feels like a piece of rounded off two by four. And I’m not sure that if it got left in the car during an Arizona Summer the frame wouldn’t warp in time. Melt no. Warp might be possible. Same thing with the magazines. But if they work in Iraq and Afghanistan I might have to change my mind on that point. That said, I still prefer an all-steel, real-steel .45 with a long and proven history of working under both the best and worst of conditions and environments.

And you can detail strip it with without any tools what-so-ever. :cool:

Try to do that with your …. What was the name again??? :neener: :D

Edited to add: If you going to do a project like this one start with a blued gun. You will end up doing a little polishing here and there and maybe dovetailing the front of the slide for a different sight, and even ... :cuss: maybe retrofit a duck-butt grip safety to the frame. After doing all of this it is pure h--l to strip a plated finish and start over.

Don't ask me how I know ... :cuss: :banghead:
 
I am not that dedicated to the 1911 type and I think a Glock would be just fine for a "knock around" gun. They will take one heck of a beating and not even show it, let alone fail. But the original question involved a 1911 specifically, and Old Fuff has answered that pretty well.

I don't like plain stainless steel for a possible defense gun for the same reason I don't like chrome or nickel plating. If I want to carry a shiny neon sign saying "here he is", why bother to disguise it as a gun.

Jim
 
Seriously - I have and use a Keltec P-11 for a "niche" gun. I shoot it very well, has been reliable, and I doubt I will ever own another poly gun.

It fills a "niche", I don't worry about it. If used to defend myself - the DA is gonna keep it and who knows how it will be treated. I'd rather lose this one than a 3" RB HB K frame, a 1911 or any number of other guns ...

I was asked to T&E the gun and kept it afterwards. It fills a "niche", exposed to all sorts of stuff.
 
Why?

Why not Stainless for a rough and ready pistol,not everyone carries an oily rag in their pocket.
Also one of the points hasn't been addressed.
What parts to get for the pistol and what spares to have on hand.
I was thinking that if you were headed to a place like the Congo River Basin(been there,done that) and have to take everything that you need,What would you take in the way of spare parts for your 1911. :confused:
 
Spare Parts

Ken mah fren...If ya put it together with the right parts, ya probably ain't gonna need any spares unless ya carry 25,000 rounds of ammo to the Congo with ya. :p

Seriously though, old Colt commercial or NOS USGI parts would likely see ya through the storms for years to come unless you try to shoot the gun to destruction year in and year out.

Just to be safe though, I'd want a spare recoil spring plug and a spare plunger assembly. An extra recoil spring wouldn't be a bad idea, as well as a
firing pin spring. Maybe an extra firing pin stop too. A full set of pins
and an extra mag catch assembly, ready to slap in. Magazines! Can't have too many magazines or too much ammo.

For a hard-use beater that'll never see the Congo or the Gobi Desert...all of the above and some things in multiples...a spare extractor, pre-fitted and tuned and ready to rock would be good too. Grip screws and bushings...
maybe an extra plunger tube and ejector...a pre-fit disconnector wouldn't hurt. they usually wear faster than any other part in the fire control group
except the firing pin. A spare trigger too...I've had one to break at the corner of the stirrup. If it had been my only gun at the range, a 45-minute trip would have been wasted. I now carry a spare trigger in my range kit.
A hammer strut too...even though the chances that you'll need it are slim
if you use a good one to start with. If ya can't find a NOS GI strut, and new-style Colt strut is blanked from good steel, heat-treated, and hell-for-stout.
 
Ken:

Notice that Tuner, Jim Keenan and myself all turned thumbs down on stainless steel. This was not a coincidence. While the stainless alloys used in guns are corrosion resistant they will rust. Other then rust resistance they’re other properties are less impressive when it comes to standing up to wear and physical abuse. High carbon steel can be heat treated for better performance and then protected against corrosion with selected finishes of various kinds. Additionally these finishes can be dark so that they don’t reflect light when circumstances might make that important. Up until recently military small arms were not made of stainless steel nor did not contain stainless components, although some barrels and/or bores were hard chrome plated. Even today the use of stainless component parts is limited in these weapons, which are used in all kinds of harsh environments. The only place where there is widespread acceptance of stainless firearms is in the American commercial market where buyers have come to believe that stainless steel is the best thing since sliced bread. Only a minority still prefer carbon steel, but they tend to make up the most knowledgeable segment of that market.
 
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