JCinPA
Member
Well,
I have not had any issues with my S&G 6120 with single battery keypad (purchased in 2005). However, it appears that it is almost a consensus among locksmiths and safe service specialists (and many manufacturers) that while electronic locks are very reliable these days . . . the dial is more so. I got the electronic primarily for convenience and because my wife is basically untrainable on the dial lock (had to get my kids to open it for her if I was out of town).
But, I don't ever want to have trouble with it, and I'm thinking of putting the original lock back on the safe. I need some help, which I understand you may not want to offer here, but I'd appreciate it if you would help me out.
I actually did the replacement of the lock with the 6120 electronic lock myself and had zero issues. The standardized footprint for retail safe locks made it very easy. I'm generally handier than the average guy, and although safe dealers and locksmiths find folks who fiddle with their own safe locks a headache, I'd like to do the swap back to the old lock myself, too. I used to change my own combination and was very facile with this because when I was in the Air Force, we had to change the combination on the S&G filesafe combination locks every few weeks, it seemed, when folks would transfer out of the unit. The safe dealer did not want me changing my own combo, but I got a key from a locksmith in Philly and changed my combo a couple times over the last several years. I'm very facile with operating and changing the combo on S&G dial locks from my military days.
My question is this . . . I don't have a copy of the old combination. I took copious notes when I removed the lock, and kept all parts in zip-lock bags, and have the installation instruction sheet from S&G's website. I have the wheels lined up so the bolt can be retracted. But the place in the wheels that the combination change key goes into is not lined up with where the keyhole is on the lid to the lock body. They are offset by the distance between the opening marker and the combo change marker. How do I get those lined up so I can insert the key and set a combination after reinstalling the lock? Or is there a way I can figure out the combination that was in it before so I can line it up by dialing it against the combo change hashmark? Other than that I get how it works, I know where to put the spline, it's properly sized for my safe since it was original equipment, and I am very confident I can reinstall it. And I will test it three times with the door open!
I would understand if you said call a locksmith, but I'd really like to try this myself, and if I do bolix it up, there are local safe guys I can call to put it in for me, and it is not a disaster if the safe stays open for a few days waiting for the locksmith.
Also, I've heard about cleaning and lubricating a lock . . . since I have it open anyway, and am trying to reinstall it, should I lubricate it? I'm thinking silicone spray I use on my gym equipment rods?
I know, I know, first question is if I was so darn careful to wrap all the parts carefully and store them in ziplock bags, why did I not write down the combo? In which case I would not be posting this. Well, I'm at least a little bit dumb.
This is a circa 2003 Liberty Lincoln LX25.
Thanks very much if you can offer help.
I have not had any issues with my S&G 6120 with single battery keypad (purchased in 2005). However, it appears that it is almost a consensus among locksmiths and safe service specialists (and many manufacturers) that while electronic locks are very reliable these days . . . the dial is more so. I got the electronic primarily for convenience and because my wife is basically untrainable on the dial lock (had to get my kids to open it for her if I was out of town).
But, I don't ever want to have trouble with it, and I'm thinking of putting the original lock back on the safe. I need some help, which I understand you may not want to offer here, but I'd appreciate it if you would help me out.
I actually did the replacement of the lock with the 6120 electronic lock myself and had zero issues. The standardized footprint for retail safe locks made it very easy. I'm generally handier than the average guy, and although safe dealers and locksmiths find folks who fiddle with their own safe locks a headache, I'd like to do the swap back to the old lock myself, too. I used to change my own combination and was very facile with this because when I was in the Air Force, we had to change the combination on the S&G filesafe combination locks every few weeks, it seemed, when folks would transfer out of the unit. The safe dealer did not want me changing my own combo, but I got a key from a locksmith in Philly and changed my combo a couple times over the last several years. I'm very facile with operating and changing the combo on S&G dial locks from my military days.
My question is this . . . I don't have a copy of the old combination. I took copious notes when I removed the lock, and kept all parts in zip-lock bags, and have the installation instruction sheet from S&G's website. I have the wheels lined up so the bolt can be retracted. But the place in the wheels that the combination change key goes into is not lined up with where the keyhole is on the lid to the lock body. They are offset by the distance between the opening marker and the combo change marker. How do I get those lined up so I can insert the key and set a combination after reinstalling the lock? Or is there a way I can figure out the combination that was in it before so I can line it up by dialing it against the combo change hashmark? Other than that I get how it works, I know where to put the spline, it's properly sized for my safe since it was original equipment, and I am very confident I can reinstall it. And I will test it three times with the door open!
I would understand if you said call a locksmith, but I'd really like to try this myself, and if I do bolix it up, there are local safe guys I can call to put it in for me, and it is not a disaster if the safe stays open for a few days waiting for the locksmith.
Also, I've heard about cleaning and lubricating a lock . . . since I have it open anyway, and am trying to reinstall it, should I lubricate it? I'm thinking silicone spray I use on my gym equipment rods?
I know, I know, first question is if I was so darn careful to wrap all the parts carefully and store them in ziplock bags, why did I not write down the combo? In which case I would not be posting this. Well, I'm at least a little bit dumb.
This is a circa 2003 Liberty Lincoln LX25.
Thanks very much if you can offer help.
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