target1911
Member
When you clean your guns, what solvent do you use? I have been using Hoppes #9 but it seems to take forever to get a clean patch. It just doesnt seem to be that strong of a solvent. What do yo think is the best?
??? About Solvents
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rdaines
Member
Hoppes #9 smells great but appears to be a mild cleaner which mean a barrel can soak in it for many hours (over night) without any damage occurring. Some more aggressive cleaners have stronger chemicals (like ammonia) which will knock your socks off in a poorly ventilated room. Go to any gun store and see the choices, those that say treat for 5 to 15 minutes will be more potent than Hoppes #9 but may also damage a barrel if left in too long.
target1911
Member
I tend to be a lil impatient. When I set down to clean my guns, I want them clean when I get back up so I dont think there is any fear of damage.
How do the one that claim to Clean and Lube at the same time. To me it doesn't seem that they would be all that strong either.
AND I AGREE......
There is no smell like a bottle of Hoppes #9.
rdaines
Member
Products that claim to do everything well tend to do nothing really well. Clean and lube products may be great on a hunting trip and you can take limited supplies but when at home I'd use individual products.
hoghunting
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I have been extremely happy with the foaming cleaner Wipe-Out. After arriving home from a shooting session, I spray the barrels with Wipe-Out, let them sit overnight, then patch it out the next day. Wipe-Out does not contain ammonia, so overnight will not cause any damage to the barrel. It doesn't work on lead, but it sure cleans copper and powder fouling.
Ohio Rifleman
Member
I've always just used Hoppe's #9. And some Hoppe's lubricating oil, too. Works well enough for me. Yes, it sometimes seems to take forever, but, that's part of being a gun owner.
Sgt.Zim
Member
Depends on the gun.
For my milsurps and modern pistols, usually Ed's Red for the powder fouling and general crud, (and especially cosmo removal), and Sweet's 7.62 for copper fouling. A particular cruddy barrel may get the Kroil and JB treatment.
For my BP/Cowboy guns, lately I've been experimenting with "Purple Power" (big jug at wally world, cut it with water, cheaper than simple green, and doesn't smell as bad).
But nothing beats the smell of Hoppes #9, sometimes I'll open up a bottle just for the ambience.
For my milsurps and modern pistols, usually Ed's Red for the powder fouling and general crud, (and especially cosmo removal), and Sweet's 7.62 for copper fouling. A particular cruddy barrel may get the Kroil and JB treatment.
For my BP/Cowboy guns, lately I've been experimenting with "Purple Power" (big jug at wally world, cut it with water, cheaper than simple green, and doesn't smell as bad).
But nothing beats the smell of Hoppes #9, sometimes I'll open up a bottle just for the ambience.
As an alternative - try some homebrew!
I posted this in the Gunsmithing area in regard to Ogre's CLP recipe...
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=286680
You may wish to consider it as an alternative that can be whipped up "on demand" in quantities that are appropriate for your needs.
Enjoy!
I posted this in the Gunsmithing area in regard to Ogre's CLP recipe...
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=286680
You may wish to consider it as an alternative that can be whipped up "on demand" in quantities that are appropriate for your needs.
Enjoy!
target1911
Member
I have thought about B-12 and other cleaners like it, but I am worried about what it would do different componants of the gun, mainly the poly frames.
bluetopper
Member
I've been made fun of about cleaning guns my poor boy method, but it really works well for me.
Put some diesel in a plastic bucket and immerse your field stripped pistol. Dunk the end of your cleaning rod and patch, run through the barrel, dunk the patch again and shake under the surface. Use it again and again. Then get a clean one when you think the barrel is clean. Dunk a small rag and clean the rest of your gun with it. Q-tips for the nooks and crannies.
After cleaning, blow off with an air hose. Diesel is a very light weight oil that has enough of a solvent nature for real good cleaning. Just my $0.02.
Put some diesel in a plastic bucket and immerse your field stripped pistol. Dunk the end of your cleaning rod and patch, run through the barrel, dunk the patch again and shake under the surface. Use it again and again. Then get a clean one when you think the barrel is clean. Dunk a small rag and clean the rest of your gun with it. Q-tips for the nooks and crannies.
After cleaning, blow off with an air hose. Diesel is a very light weight oil that has enough of a solvent nature for real good cleaning. Just my $0.02.
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NavyLCDR
member
I've found a combo that works pretty good. I use the foaming bore cleaner that Wal Mart carries, let that sit in there about 15 minutes. Then I put Blue Wonder gun cleaner on a brush and run that through about 10 times. 2 or 3 dry patches, followed by one with Hoppes #9 for preservation, 1 or 2 dry patches and that's it.
I like the action of the foaming bore cleaner, seems to do a pretty good job dissolving everything and the Blue Wonder cleaner is a gel that sticks to the brush and seems to have a pretty good scrubbing action, I usually end up with a pretty good gooy mess on the brush that I have to rinse out.
I use this on all my bolt actions and a Yugo SKS because I can take the gas valve out and make sure the gas port in the barrel doesn't get fouled, I do not use this method in the AR-15, I am afraid all that stuff would clog up the gas system.
I like the action of the foaming bore cleaner, seems to do a pretty good job dissolving everything and the Blue Wonder cleaner is a gel that sticks to the brush and seems to have a pretty good scrubbing action, I usually end up with a pretty good gooy mess on the brush that I have to rinse out.
I use this on all my bolt actions and a Yugo SKS because I can take the gas valve out and make sure the gas port in the barrel doesn't get fouled, I do not use this method in the AR-15, I am afraid all that stuff would clog up the gas system.
Two Cold Soakers
Member
On utility weapons (spray painted mossberg duck guns, stainless autopistols, AR15s) I'll use brake cleaner. Yes, autoparts grade brake cleaner.
Works wonderfully to bust grime in actions and bbls. Dunno about copper and lead.
DON"T USE IT ON WOOD - I never have, and doubt it'd be pretty.
Also oil up the steel after using it. This stuff opens up the pores, and I'm sure rust'd set in in a matter of hours.
Trust the advice of an anonymous internet sociopath at your own risk.
Works wonderfully to bust grime in actions and bbls. Dunno about copper and lead.
DON"T USE IT ON WOOD - I never have, and doubt it'd be pretty.
Also oil up the steel after using it. This stuff opens up the pores, and I'm sure rust'd set in in a matter of hours.
Trust the advice of an anonymous internet sociopath at your own risk.
I used to use Hoppes but after trying Butch's Bore shine gave my big bottle of Hoppes to a son in law and never looked back.
It's like the Hoppes was water in comparison.
Now it's a Butch's soaked patch thru the barrel, let sit for about 5 minutes, scrub with a nylon bore brush, then dry patches until they come out clean and then one patch with CLP and a few more dry ones until they come out clean. Then one last patch with a bit of CLP on it to very lightly lube the barrel.
Whole process takes about 10 minutes, which includes the 5 minute soak. To get the level of clean I get now with Butch's and CLP I'd have to spend a half hour to an hour with hoppes.
Nope - never goin' back to Hoppes - ever.
It's like the Hoppes was water in comparison.
Now it's a Butch's soaked patch thru the barrel, let sit for about 5 minutes, scrub with a nylon bore brush, then dry patches until they come out clean and then one patch with CLP and a few more dry ones until they come out clean. Then one last patch with a bit of CLP on it to very lightly lube the barrel.
Whole process takes about 10 minutes, which includes the 5 minute soak. To get the level of clean I get now with Butch's and CLP I'd have to spend a half hour to an hour with hoppes.
Nope - never goin' back to Hoppes - ever.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned Breakfree PowderBlast. In a black can, carried by Walmart, its like citrus cleaner on steroids. It is GREAT stuff. I spray it onto a brush and run it htru the bore a few times then soak a patch with it and run it thru. It gets the crud out quickly and after 2 or 3 more patches, they come out clean. It doesn't seem to hurt wood finishes but it does damage some plastics.
For any metal parts on a gun, its it good S#l+.
For any metal parts on a gun, its it good S#l+.
FieroCDSP
Member
What I've heard is to avoid using any solvents on the polymer parts. Hoppes can be used, but wiped off immediately. Ammoniated cleaners supposedly destabilize the plastics over time. I usually wipe with hoppes on a patch or rag and then wipe with a dry several times.
FDC
Member
Another one using Hoppe#9 and Break Free CLP here.
For some of the smaller carbon/junk fouled parts, and my AR-15 I'll use WalMart brake cleaner. Followed it up with a quick scrub, then oil.
I'm contemplating picking up some of the Break Free brand foaming bore cleaner for my Garands.
For some of the smaller carbon/junk fouled parts, and my AR-15 I'll use WalMart brake cleaner. Followed it up with a quick scrub, then oil.
I'm contemplating picking up some of the Break Free brand foaming bore cleaner for my Garands.
Futuristic
Member
How About Non-Toxic Solvents?
I don't see anyone else saying this, so here goes:
Why use a Toxic Solvent at All?
You will find (if you search) that most of the high-volume shooters, whether Tactical Trainers or Competitive Shooters have changed over to Non-Toxic Solvent or Non-Toxic Water-Based cleaning solutions for the vast majority of their cleaning needs. Why breathe in more chemical vapors than you need to?
There are several NON-TOXIC cleaners now that do a perfectly good, and in some ways much better, job of cleaning guns. BONUS: You can use them in the Kitchen and the Wife won't say a word about the smell.
Here's a quick list:
Slip 2000 725 Weapons Cleaner
Slip 2000 Carbon Killer
M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner
Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner (this is just M-Pro 7 repackaged under the Hoppes label)
Mil-Comm MC25 Cleaner/Degreaser
Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner
etc.
These will all do a perfectly good job on normal cleaning. As with any normal use solvent, you might occasionally need to use a specialty cleaner for particular problems, like excessive copper fouling.
Futuristic
I don't see anyone else saying this, so here goes:
Why use a Toxic Solvent at All?
You will find (if you search) that most of the high-volume shooters, whether Tactical Trainers or Competitive Shooters have changed over to Non-Toxic Solvent or Non-Toxic Water-Based cleaning solutions for the vast majority of their cleaning needs. Why breathe in more chemical vapors than you need to?
There are several NON-TOXIC cleaners now that do a perfectly good, and in some ways much better, job of cleaning guns. BONUS: You can use them in the Kitchen and the Wife won't say a word about the smell.
Here's a quick list:
Slip 2000 725 Weapons Cleaner
Slip 2000 Carbon Killer
M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner
Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner (this is just M-Pro 7 repackaged under the Hoppes label)
Mil-Comm MC25 Cleaner/Degreaser
Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner
etc.
These will all do a perfectly good job on normal cleaning. As with any normal use solvent, you might occasionally need to use a specialty cleaner for particular problems, like excessive copper fouling.
Futuristic
scout26
Member
I shoot mostly shotguns, but here's my cleaning routine:
1. Wiped down, and barrels swabbed with CLP before departing the range. (Helps start to break down the gunk.)
2. Put in Safe when we get home.
3. Next day (or so), clean with Ed's Red (with Acetone no Lanolin). Really breaks down the plastic wad fouling, inaddition to the general crud.
4. Oil with Ed's Red (with Lanolin) and put in safe. I may also use CLP, depends on my mood/what's in reach.
5. I prefer to let the chemicals (and an cordless drill) do the work.
1. Wiped down, and barrels swabbed with CLP before departing the range. (Helps start to break down the gunk.)
2. Put in Safe when we get home.
3. Next day (or so), clean with Ed's Red (with Acetone no Lanolin). Really breaks down the plastic wad fouling, inaddition to the general crud.
4. Oil with Ed's Red (with Lanolin) and put in safe. I may also use CLP, depends on my mood/what's in reach.
5. I prefer to let the chemicals (and an cordless drill) do the work.
Pat McCoy
Member
Another non-toxic is Bore Tech's "Eliminator" Great for copper fouling.
target1911
Member
WOW... I just got some of this and let me tell you...IT WORKS GREAT
rangerruck
Member
i am a huge fan of the blue wonder, and the foaming gun cleaners. with the foam , usually do two treatments, and use the brass brush for just 1 pass, to push the crap out, then it is nothing but patches.
U.S.SFC_RET
Member
Amsoil Metal Protectant MP for me.
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