Adhesive to cure crimp jump in 44M?

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KenC

KenC

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I have the Taurus Titanium 444 Ultralite revolver with 2.5" barrel, which I agree is an extreme concept.

I have found a reduced load for home defense using a 200 grain Speer Gold Dot JHP made for short barrel guns.

I have been unable to find full power factory ammo that will neither erode the cylinder (too light) or jump crimp in rounds 4-6. Ditto for reloads -- with strong crimps.

I have pulled bullets from mil rifle ammo that had cement or sealant that required extra work.

Is there a cement I can safely use on 44M 240 grain bullets?

How is it applied? After seating/crimping and it seeps in, or before (and it potentially fouls the die)?

Ken C
 
It's a sealant most of us refer to as asphalt. It doesn't do great things for accuracy. I've never applied any. Are you using jacketed or lead? You may find a lead bullet with a crimp style that fits your needs.
 
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That tar is there to ensure the ammo is sealed from water. Not to hold the bullet there from recoil.

Maybe try a different die with a better crimp, Lee FCD? I agree with the lead bullet suggestion. Have you tried jacketed with a cannelure to crimp into?
 
Find a bullet with a good crimp groove and use the Lee Factory Crimp Die.
The FCD puts an even squeeze on the case mouth that really holds bullets in place. :)

Stay safe.
 
Yes, all are jacketed with cannelure.

It might be sealant on the mil ammo, but it sure works to keep the bullet in place: 20 whacks with an impact puller versus three or four normally.

The easiest to try is diluted and runny nail polish applied to the cannelure area. Next would be diluted and runny cyanoacrylate. A dab or two.
 
The best way to break the tar sealant is to seat the bullet just a tiny bit more. That usually breaks the seal and releases the bullet.

Getting it off is also a PITA! Chucking up a bore brush gets it out of the necks pretty quick. I use a dremel and a small wire brush for bullets.
 
You might have a neck tension issue? Is this fairly new brass? Well used magnum brass can start having jump issues, especially with some sizing dies. If you are sticking to jacketed with a crimp groove, a Lee FCD might help. I've also had very excellent luck with the Redding Profile Crimp die in really hot 44 Mag loads in short barrels. The last thing I would consider would be the sealant, that's primarily for water proofing, I think you've got something else going on that needs to be addressed. Maybe pick up some new Starline brass and see if the problem goes away, or maybe you have some known once fired brass laying around you can try.
 
KenC said:
I have the Taurus Titanium 444 Ultralite revolver with 2.5" barrel, which I agree is an extreme concept.

I have found a reduced load for home defense using a 200 grain Speer Gold Dot JHP made for short barrel guns.

I have been unable to find full power factory ammo that will neither erode the cylinder (too light) or jump crimp in rounds 4-6. Ditto for reloads -- with strong crimps.

I have pulled bullets from mil rifle ammo that had cement or sealant that required extra work.

Is there a cement I can safely use on 44M 240 grain bullets?

How is it applied? After seating/crimping and it seeps in, or before (and it potentially fouls the die)?

Ken C
Click to expand...
How much does your ultralight revolver weigh?

That could explain your problem BUT I can’t imagine a good roll crimp into a crimp groove not holding bullets in place during recoil. Im not really sure if a cannelure would be adequate or not.

Good luck.
 
For my heavy 44 Magnum loads I use either a Redding Profile crimp or a Lee Collet Crimp die. Bullets stay in place with my heaviest loads (near max loads of WC820 with a 265 gr bullet) even in my S&W 629. I would be hesitant about using any "glue" to hold bullets in place...

FWIW; I am not a Lee FCD, w/post crimping sizing fan for handguns and I cannot recommend one...
 
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KenC said:
I have been using new Starline brass. Dies are RCBS.
Click to expand...

And you're sizing the new brass correct? Because if you're using new Starline out of the box, I've found it's definitely slightly oversized and will jump with heavy loads. If you are, then I'd weigh in favor of the Redding Profile Crimp die, as far as all the crimp dies I've used for hot straight wall, I"ve really come to like it the most.
 
That amount of recoil is not helping your hand and wrist.
I'd consider crimping over the shoulder of a SWC. Plenty of case capacity for a light load. Start your load development at the low end due to the deeper seated bullet. It might look like a 44 Russian.
I'm a believer in keeping life simple and pain free.
 
mdi said:
For my heavy 44 Magnum loads I use either a Redding Profile crimp or a Lee Collet Crimp die. Bullets stay in place with my heaviest loads (near max loads of WC820 with a 265 gr bullet) even in my S&W 629. I would be hesitant about using any "glue" to hold bullets in place...

FEWI I am not a Lee FCD, w/post crimping sizing, for handguns and I cannot recommend one...
Click to expand...
I agree with this completely.

Except for the comment about the Redding Profile Crimp. I've not used one of those.

The Lee Collet Crimp for heavy Mag loads is the way to go.

And, the Lee Factory Crimp Die (for handgun cartridges) is not a good match with lead bullets, except in very limited circumstances.

For jacketed, go ahead and use the FCD - it won't hurt anything. But, I've never had a situation in which I needed one.
 
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