Advice from a professional. -Lube your pistol cases.

For 9MM, you lubers say that you lube the cases and size/deprime, immediately "bell" the case mouth, prime, powder, seat and crimp. Without ever removing the lube? I have been lubing, sizing/depriming, and then tumbling before any of the remaining steps. Trying to keep lube out of the inside of the case., which I think is important.

Am I missing something?
Hornady One Shot dries and doesn't need to be removed. I've been using it for about five years and have never cleaned it off, and have never had a problem. After spraying you do need to let it dry completely before sizing.

chris
 
I use carbide pistol dies. I even went so far as to make a shorter lever for my press for 44 special and below because I didn't need the leverage of the full length RCBS handle with no lube. Just wasted motion.

I do go switch to the factory handle and spray lube if sizing 44 mag cases. My shoulder has been surgically rebuilt and I try to reduce stress on it as much as possible, either with less movement or more leverage.

Cooking spray is just messy. One try was enough to do me.
Cooking spray is an emergency use only item.... I'll admit to recommending it once in troubleshooting, but it's not a regular thing....
 
I used the actual Bag Balm straight for the myth busting thread as that's what I use for lubing rifle cases for resizing - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...affect-on-neck-tension-bullet-setback.834035/
The bag balm is petroleum jelly based with a smaller amount of lanolin added, so I could see that remaining slippery after drying. I spray mine in the gallon zip lock bag, when it dries it actually gets…I don’t know the right word for the description but let’s call it slightly tacky…almost kinda grippy. I haven’t had any problems with setback and I load for 357 sig which is pretty notorious for setback. Maybe I haven’t had any issues because I don’t use a lot and I spray the inside of the bag, not the brass itself?
 
Lube is good. Minimum amount of water based wet lube is better.

I also find that polishing the inside of pistol and straight walled rimmed case sizing dies to be a very good practice. Reduces friction and leaves a mirror finish on brass.

Cleaning dies between batch runs as part of the change over is also a must for me. Oil after use and clean with gum cutter at time of use/set up.
 
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Bag balm is greasy. We used to use the stuff after working in the shop for rough hands. Working Hands came along and solved the lingering greasy mess. One Shot is so easy when I use it for rifle brass. 50 rounds in the loading tray, spray at an angle as I rotate the tray on all four sides. Takes care of outside of brass and inside the necks. Let dry, size and load. The less time I mess with brass the more range time I have...
 
I hate the thought of lubing pistol cases.

Just to be clear, so do I! Especially when I bought the darn carbide dies to be able to loose the lube. I definitely did not want to hand lube each case like I do with rifle cases, so I went the One Shot route. I use a cardboard box that I dump 100-200 cases in, and just give it a 1-2 second spray, shake it a bit, and another 1-2 second spray. I don’t line them up or monkey with them in any way other than that, wait a bit and into the case feeder they go. The spray lands randomly but it distributes in the dies. If it was anymore involved than that, I’d let the carbide work the brass.

I hate lubing rifle cases already and I do a lot fewer of them.
And it’s a necessity. For cases going through the progressive I use One Shot, for the SS I use Imperial wax. I will wipe the wax off the case, but I don’t do any after sizing tumble.
 
Just to be clear, so do I! Especially when I bought the darn carbide dies to be able to loose the lube. I definitely did not want to hand lube each case like I do with rifle cases, so I went the One Shot route. I use a cardboard box that I dump 100-200 cases in, and just give it a 1-2 second spray, shake it a bit, and another 1-2 second spray. I don’t line them up or monkey with them in any way other than that, wait a bit and into the case feeder they go. The spray lands randomly but it distributes in the dies. If it was anymore involved than that, I’d let the carbide work the brass.


And it’s a necessity. For cases going through the progressive I use One Shot, for the SS I use Imperial wax. I will wipe the wax off the case, but I don’t do any after sizing tumble.
I normally put 50-100 cases in the box, but otherwise lube pistol cases the same way.

I use Hornady Unique wax (because I found it first) on bottleneck cases. I don't wipe the wax off and I don't post-tumble either. I also put a tiny bit of lube in the neck every 3-5 cases, it keeps the expander moving smoothly.

chris
 
I like this idea; I will try.
I’ve been spraying lube in a bag and shaking the brass around for a while now, especially 9MM brass. I then add in unlubed, cleaned brass after the lube has dried and mix them together, probably a 33% lubed to unlubed mix. This works for me in keeping everything moving nice and smooth. It really is amazing the difference in the handle pull when using lubed brass. Thanks Jake, your advice is always appreciated.
 

Advice from a professional. -Lube your pistol cases

I took advice from professionals a long time ago to buy carbide pistol dies and not lube. It has worked for me. Everyone who lubes agrees with you. Everyone who doesn't lube doesn't agree with you. Ford vs Chevy.
I'm wondering what "professionals" gave this advice and what benefit they claimed it had.
 
I took advice from professionals a long time ago to buy carbide pistol dies and not lube. It has worked for me. Everyone who lubes agrees with you. Everyone who doesn't lube doesn't agree with you.
I'm wondering what "professionals" gave this advice and what benefit they claimed it had.
Those who believe using carbide sizing die doesn't need lube consider this.

I started reloading in my 20s after stint in the Army and had no physical issues muscling my way through resizing unlubed pistol brass with carbide sizing dies.

30 years later, inoperable spinal stenosis diagnosis forced early retirement with sharp shooting pain that would drop you to the floor/ground even with mild/light activity like lifting a book (Thank goodness, physical therapy stopped the shooting pain), body is stiffer and joints creak just going through normal range of motion/ROM, wake up with stiff hands/wrists with trigger finger of 4th left finger that require ROM and trigger finger shake exercise daily (Can still enjoy playing the piano but slower), I used to leg press 450 lbs and rock/rope climbed with ease with excellent hand grip strength in my 20s weighing 195 lbs but can't even do a full pull up now at 57 weighing 247 lbs, etc. etc. (Thankfully, I can still apply strong modified isosceles grip on pistols and actuate trigger finger without moving the front sight and side kick to break 2x4s) ... Yeah, getting old can be a challenge. :)

So while I can still comfortably manage to resize unlubed 9mm brass on SPP/Pro 1000/UTP sitting down, I can imagine some reloaders with age/physical/medical related issues being helped with resizing lubed brass. ;)
 
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I'm wondering what "professionals" gave this advice and what benefit they claimed it had.
Most were professionals who manufactured and sold reloading dies and/or reloading manuals. True, their opinions were probably biased, but Like I said, it has worked for me. ymmv

The benefit to me is not dealing with case lube, unless you consider Flitz or Nufinish added to crushed walnut shells in a vibratory tumbler to be dealing with case lube. If so, then I do agree with lubing pistol cases, but not because of sizing effort, but rather to keep cases from hanging onto the expander.

I’m not a bench rest or bullseye shooter, so whatever minute accuracy improvement you may see by lubing pistol cases for a carbide sizing die is of no consequence to me. I simply offered my opinion and experience regarding professional advice to lube pistol brass. We obviously disagree, but there’s nothing wrong with that either.
 
Those who believe using carbide sizing die doesn't need lube consider this.
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So while I can still comfortably manage to resize unlubed 9mm brass on SPP/Pro 1000/UTP sitting down, I can imagine some reloaders with age/physical/medical related issues being helped with resizing lubed brass. ;)
Definitely agree that age/physical/medical issues can make lubed brass (and/or store bought ammo) an attractive option, that's a different ball of wax from generic advice.
 
The benefit to me is not dealing with case lube, unless you consider Flitz or Nufinish added to crushed walnut shells in a vibratory tumbler to be dealing with case lube. If so, then I do agree with lubing pistol cases, but not because of sizing effort, but rather to keep cases from hanging onto the expander.
Somehow I don't see spraying a couple of sprits into a plastic bag and moving them around as a huge issue of dealing with lube...certainly nothing compared to lubing rifle cases...but you're right, YMMV

I’m not a bench rest or bullseye shooter, so whatever minute accuracy improvement you may see by lubing pistol cases for a carbide sizing die is of no consequence to me. I simply offered my opinion and experience regarding professional advice to lube pistol brass. We obviously disagree, but there’s nothing wrong with that either.
Lubing pistol cases has nothing to do with accuracy improvement and everything to do with efficiency and reducing the amount of force need to accomplish the task of reloading. I don't know how much difference it would make on a single stage press, but lubing cases on a progressive press easily reduces the force need by 50%
 
Definitely agree that age/physical/medical issues can make lubed brass (and/or store bought ammo) an attractive option, that's a different ball of wax from generic advice.
I have a friend who I introduced to reloading who is in his early 30s and works stocking shelves...so I'm thinking his has pretty good strength and range of motion.

When I introduced him to the difference between sizing lube and not lubed 9mm cases it was a real eye opener for him. It made it much easier when he was reloading a 2k round batch of 9mm
 
Just because we don’t have to use lube with carbide pistol sizers, doesn’t mean it’s a negative to do so. Posters have given some good reasons to do so. The only negative I see is lube on cases, but no one is saying that glob lube all over the cases, and most are saying minimal lube is all it takes. Then either tumble the cases like we do with rifle, or just leave it on, depending on what lube and how much is, IMHO, deciding factor there.
 
I have another friend who dry media tumbles his completed 9mm rounds in corncob with NuFinish because he likes the rounds in his boxes to shine when he goes to matches.

He might be a little OCD about it, because he also wet tumbles, deprimes separately to keep his press clean, sorts by headstamp, and roll sizes to before they even hit his Mark 7 Apex-10...but he does load a rate of about 3500rds an hour and really doesn't want to deal with stoppages. when he's on a roll.

With an automated drive, it really isn't a matter to required strength
 
Just because we don’t have to use lube with carbide pistol sizers, doesn’t mean it’s a negative to do so. Posters have given some good reasons to do so. The only negative I see is lube on cases, but no one is saying that glob lube all over the cases, and most are saying minimal lube is all it takes. Then either tumble the cases like we do with rifle, or just leave it on, depending on what lube and how much is, IMHO, deciding factor there.
Can't argue with any of that, I just choose not to expend the time and effort to lube pistol brass other than with tumbling media additives that I mentioned earlier. I offered a different opinion than Jake's, but like I said earlier, it works for me and ymmv. Different strokes for different folks. My original mention of Ford vs Chevy was just to point out that different camps have different opinions, not intended to derail the thread into a debate for or against either one.
 
The benefit to me is not dealing with case lube, unless you consider Flitz or Nufinish added to crushed walnut shells in a vibratory tumbler to be dealing with case lube. If so, then I do agree with lubing pistol cases, but not because of sizing effort, but rather to keep cases from hanging onto the expander.

I simply offered my opinion and experience regarding professional advice to lube pistol brass. We obviously disagree, but there’s nothing wrong with that either.

:thumbup:
 
Can't argue with any of that, I just choose not to expend the time and effort to lube pistol brass other than with tumbling media additives that I mentioned earlier. I offered a different opinion than Jake's, but like I said earlier, it works for me and ymmv. Different strokes for different folks. My original mention of Ford vs Chevy was just to point out that different camps have different opinions, not intended to derail the thread into a debate for or against either one.
As with any advice that we receive, it's our perrogative as to whether we think it is wise for us to take it. I'm not offended by anyone that doesn't want to take my advice, but just keep it in mind if you ever have any of the issues that I mentioned.
I asked my question because I really wanted to know if there was a professional that recommended against lubing pistol cases because I wanted to know if there was a good reason for it that I was missing. I have been obsessed with reloading and with bullets for multiple decades now and anything more I can learn feels like being young again. Just don't try to get me to be one of those reloaders that inspects and weight sorts every single piece of brass and every single bullet. I can't do it. I'm not that guy.
 
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